I’m new to the TX wheel as well. Where are the wheel setting at? Is that something you are adjusting using the PC software?
I went through the controller to wheel growing pains back in GT3 and can definitely relate to what is being said in this thread. But it isn’t the wheel that is changing the car, the car is fine and will still drive the same as it did before, its your steering inputs that have changed. With a controller you can “saw” the wheel very quickly. All racers saw the wheel, you do it when you are catching oversteer, you do it when you are trying to minimize understeer, you do it when you search for grip in the rain. You can still drive these cars the same way, you just need to steer way faster than you are. You transition from braking to corner entry and the car starts backing into the turn (transition oversteer, common in MR), you need to overcorrect and return to a good steering angle for the turn. On a controller this is cake, and usually done without realizing it, in the real world and with a wheel you have to be very fast.
A big helper is reducing the lock to lock settings, 900 is cool and all, but is actually faux-realistic compared to many real sport cars. 540 is a nicer setting especially when first starting, also doesn’t really detract from the experience. Your physical set up is a huge helper too, if you have the wheel in your lap or on a movable eating tray table (whatever they are referred too) you are going to have a rough time reliably give fast accurate steering inputs. I started on one of these tables, then went to bolting it to my desk, night and day difference. I’ve tried actual seated set ups as well, they are well worth the money if they are in your budget. Playseat has a fold-able one that I’ve heard nothing but good things about, looks a bit like an alcantara lawn chair with a metal rod across your lap.