TX Wheel Help - Up Shift Issue

Hi Guys,

Sorry if this has already been posted, I have looked all over and cannot find it, checked all 12 pages of the wheel and you post and it’s not there. But I’m having an issue with my new TX wheel, only been using for 2 days.

It doesn’t happen with every car but seems to be worse the higher the class. I was playing for 8 hours with a break every hour or two. After a while, when I was up shifting, the wheel would jerk to the side quite violently in 1st to 3rd, then 4th up it would just be a little feedback twitch. But it got so bad I had to stop and turn it off for a few hours and go back to D Class.

I am using all assists off but manual shifting, no clutch. Dead zone 0 to 100, with 290 rotation I think. Has anyone else had this issue, is it the wheel, my driving or is it supposed to happen? I do keep on the gas when I up shift, I am using the pedals that came with the wheel.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, War Chief.

Hi mate,

The only scenario i have the same feeling is when using high powered rear wheel drive cars that wheelspin with a violent gearchange.

Perhaps the twitch you feel is to represent the backend coming loose when all power is resumed to the axle after gear change, causing the tyres to spin up.

Perhaps as a test, change gear slowly and feather the gas down when the car has completley changed gear.

With you only having driven with it two days i would double check that you have updated the firmware to the latest on the thrustmaster website.

If you want to shift with the 2 pedal set that came with TX, I suggest you use the “Auto Clutch” mode. Push (Mode + “A”) @ the same time, the mode light will blink.

Now set Manual with Clutch in game assists. You can shift like you were, and the TX will press the “A” button (this has to be set as clutch) just before you shift with the paddles.

Be aware that when in menus and you depress shift paddle, you will still get the extra “A” button push also.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Block, I will try this out tonight. Thanks for responding.

I have the TX with the two pedal set as well, but cannot say I have the problem you are describing. Looks like your wheel is suddenly calibrating when you where shifting. (violently going to the side)

Maybe it helps to turn on the ventilator permanently if you are playing for several hours.

I’m using manual shifter with the A button, got so used to it that I do not need the T3PA, but that is another discussion.

I just got my tx wheel two weeks ago and I had to update the firmware to v50. I posted weeks ago about a hard left glitch that would happen after a few hours of racing. If you notice if you drive into the grass or gravel the steering will steer violently hard left never to the right only left. With the firmware update it only happens once in awhile. To reset that glitch all you do is exit to the main menu/garage view of your current car that you are using. Not the menu screen that shows messages/rivals/multi player. Using the auto shifter won’t solve the problem but it will make it easier to shift. I know some of you will say my wheel works perfect but I drive very aggressively mostly top 1% on most of the old FM4 tracks. I also drive with no assist to enable Hardcore Leaderboard lap times. I also notice that on certain tracks I have to adjust the advance wheel settings to avoid the rearend from sliding out. I keep the turn ratio at 540 all of the time. Also I use two green blinking lights for sensitivity level.

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Hey Fulgrip, come to think of it, I think my wheel did turn left every time I went off. It definitely flipped out every time I stuffed it. I will update the firmware and see if that helps. I hadn’t checked the manual to see if there where any settings I could adjust, I will have to check it out. When I shift up it always goes to the right and in low gears it is quite violent.

I haven’t been driving very aggressively as i just got the wheel and I’m nit used to it yet, plus i cant tune very well. My triple peddle set arrived today so I will see if manual with clutch helps at all, but I really wanted to get used to driving with the wheel first. I will try your and Blocks suggestions and see what happens.

Thanks for responding.

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Warchief I forgot to mention some important details. You can adjust the sensitivity level by holding the mode button and the left or right shift paddle at the same time. I go with 2 green blinking lights, it blinks really weird so you have to pay close attention. Also I use Raceboy Tunes a lot they really responds well with the tx wheel. Also I use 0 inside deadzone on steering. Now for outside deadzone I use 84 for tracks like watkins glen. I use 92 for oval tracks like Daytona. COTA i use 89 so if you want to test those numbers you might like them. Keep turn ratio at 540 except when driving F1 cars. I donot use assist so my only thing is be easy on the gas and gentle on the brakes. Also i power up my wheel first then turn xbox on. Im not sure if that matters? Thanks again, Grip…

Party Boy, I think you may be right. After further testing when I let off the throttle it doesn’t happen. I will update the firmware and re-test. When I tested with really low power cars, it didn’t happen. But when I moved up in class it happened every time.

Fulgrip, I didn’t get chance to check out the settings on the wheel but I will check it out tonight. Are all of the settings/modes listed in the manual? I assume they are. I changed the dead zones to 5% to 95% and it felt a bit better. I will check out RB’s tunes, but I like to try and tune for myself, even though I’m not very good.

Do you think me having such a low rotation would hinder my driving or the feel, it is set to 290. I was finding it difficult having to cross hands so to speak, when I was also having to shift because I was working with very limited space. But I have my chair and triple peddles now, so going to get the stick shift as well, hopefully that will help. I was in D Class at the time though, not race cars.

Cheers

In my opinion yes, that dor would be a hindrence in the fact that you only have to move the wheel a couple of degrees to have a large impact in steering input.

For example if it were set to a dor of 900 degrees, a quarter turn on the wheel doesnt do much to the steering in game.
It is similar to real life.

Therfore it makes countersteering a slide easier beacuse there is less chance of overcorrecting oversteeing in the heat of the moment.

I personally have found 720 works well for me.

I like to tune myself.

Differential is one of the most overlooked factors in tuning.

I think it is one of the most important if you drive unassisted, eg: no traction control.
It acts like a lsd. Eg:

With high front accel diff, when exiting a bend both tyres spin at the same speed resulting in oversteer.

With low front accel diff, one rear tyre rotates between 10-30mph slower than the other rear tyre resulting in a great corner exit with minimal spinning.

Differential Acceleration:

Turn this down to around 40 in high powered rwd cars as a starting point.
You can go lower but you need to find the sweet spot where turn in for certain bends isnt affected.

This is different for every car.

Done correctly you will have sharp and direct turn in, with minimal loss of traction for rwd drive cars on the corner exit.

Differential Deccelration:

Generally this has the effect if turned to low of unexpected/sudden oversteer when heavy braking or sudden downshifting causing the car to oversteer when approaching bends at speed.

Lowering this setting gives your car a better corner entry turn in, but set too low and the above happens.

This setting is always best lowered but again finding the sweet spot so corner entry isnt impaired is trial and error.
Again you want to start on 40 and work down from there.

In general my cars normally run between 25-45% accel diff for high powered rwd cars

50-75% for low powered cars eg 100-350 bhp.

Another quick tip when tuning is to bring your telementry up by pressing up on the d-pad when test driving.

Press right on d-pad until tyre pressure and heat is displayed.

You want to aim for between 32-33 psi when tyres are at optimal temp 190-220 degrees c.

If you want more pressure and heat increase the tyre pressure.
If you want less pressure and heat decrease the tyre pressure.

The second thing i do is display the inner/middle/outter tyre pressures in telementry.

You want to achieve an even spread of temp accross the tyre.
To achieve this adjust the camber in small increments.

I Also adjust rear toe-in by upto 5 degrees at max, depending on your car.

In the tuners section there are some excellent guides which go into far more detail than me.

Hope this helps you to minimise your oversteering situations pal.

Ps. The Th8a shifter is awesome. Well worth the money.

I agree with Partyboy what he stated is some good information to know. Also the DOR you have is more for F1 cars I think. Unfortunately that info is not in the manual but it is real easy to do. .

  1. Sensitivity level
    Hold the mode button (left lower black button) and the left downshift paddle at the same time for about a second or two and let go. You should now see the green light start to blink. If you lose count just repeat process until you get familiar with the blinks. I use two green blinks. Note that the green light lights up to show that it is activated then the blinking process begins.
  2. Auto shift
    Hold the mode button and the A button at same time for a second or two and then you will see the red light flash on and off. (Instead of green it will now be red) It should now flash for the rest of your game play. Note that the right upshift paddle will function as the A button and no longer the right bumber button. So you will have to use your controller to toggle to the right if your in the tuning menu.

Anyways I use 540 and I also like using 900. When I use 900 it feels really solid the car feels like it grips the road more or like I have more room on the track for some weird reason. but overall I like using 540 hope this helps out. Thanks again, grip. .

I’m using a Logitech G920 and what you are describing sounds like something I noticed with some cars that could apply a good bit of torque at low rev ranges.

I noticed it a bit in FH2 as well, which I fired up last night to compare wheel behavior.

Two cars that stand out in my memory from testing last night were the 455 Transam and the 2009 Focus RS. At lower gears, the torque steer is amplified by the gearing (so it’s stronger in lower gears) and I needed to manage throttle and steering to prevent control loss.

At higher gears, as you mentioned, you will feel just a little twitch.

Actually my first experience with this wheel was a torque steer off the line, into a wall with a Fiesta XR2, but I think it torque steered to the right. The Logitech is very strong when set to 100% FFB so I had to turn it down, currently at around 35%

I am sure letting off the accelerator on up shifts a little will tame it somewhat to reduce the strength of the steering pull. You could probably still have a bit of throttle, just not 100%.

Thanks for the info guys, I tested with the mode settings, shifting felt smoother but did not help the shift twitch, however the higher DOR sorted it out to a point. So thanks for the help! Really feeling a lot better, I left if at 540. But I’m going to move it up each time I get used to it.

Grip, I get what you mean about it seeming like you have more road to play with, car feels planted, the wheel feels a bit better on the straights as well. I still get a twitch but only with high power cars, so i let off the gas a bit.

Party Boy, I have found that diff seems to make the most difference. The ARB also seems to matter more than everything as well. I had D Class cars with really low ARB and 75% acc and dec for the differential seemed to feel really good, but b up I had to have really low diff settings, I get it helps the wheel spin and better cornering. I realised that the camber needs to be lower in 6, I transfer a tune from 5 and the inner tire was massively hotter. I always set the rear toe to 2, front 0. How do you set your diff for AWD, I’m struggling to get that right. I have on my evo 4 set to 50a 25d front and 65a 50d rear, but it doesn’t feel quite right, just can’t get it on the money. I read worms guide and that helped me understand things more, but it doesn’t seem to translate as well in 6.

I got the playseat challenge, so need to order the shift mount and shifter, so I will be waiting a while after ordering the chair, wheel and peddles… Not cheap!

Rain, I got the torque steer really bad on my tuned mini, first time I ran it I was on a track with the start line is off camber (can’t remember the track) but I ended up pointing across the track in a blink…

Thank you all for the help and advice, I’m having a much better time and actually enjoying the game now. Really appreciate it! Definitely need to work on my driving, learn not be ham fisted like I am with a controller.

Warchief I forgot to mention I have my feedback and vibration set to 65. Also with the wheel plugged with USB to your PC on the control panel i have damping and the spring rate turned all the way down to zero. This honestly made the car respond alot better. its a bit of a pain in the butt to keep connecting the wheel to PC but trust me it will be worth the trouble. A guy that goes by the name slaptrain on youtube performs drifts and has amazing control using this method on tx wheel. i dont drift but using this adjustment lets me recover from spinouts and fishtails. thanks again, grip…

Hey Grip, I installed the driver to my laptop yesterday and updated the firmware and I haven’t had the problem since. I checked out the control panel but was worried about messing with it. I will check out the damping and spring settings as soon as I get chance. At the moment I feel like I have no control when the car spins out or starts to drift, so hopefully that will help.

I started using the triple peddle set last night, was a right laugh, but I can’t change gear with the clutch for toffee at the moment. Going to take some serious practice!

Warchief good to hear that the update helped out. Mine does it once in a blue moon but overall its minimal. Yeah I had the same thoughts about messing with control panel. To be honest the forcefeed back and the resistance stays 100% the same but with these settings tweak down to zero it made the car easier to recover. Especially at tracks like Watkins Glen those turns require medium to full throttle coming out of the turns. After I dialed down constant, damping, and spring rate to zero I can really get aggressive with the wheel and throttle. Along with a good sensitivity level and good tunes you should be hitting top 1% on leaderboards. I was able to get top 10 at daytona tri oval using S class car using a good tune from HBR guys. The wheel feels a lot better so now I can focus on the track more. Yeah a triple set system is a bit to much pressure for me. I like using the auto clutch mode.

I am constantly running the ring so being able to recover the car would be nice. I haven’t run Watkins Glen yet, in fact I haven’t run even half of the tracks yet. Figured once I get 1% on nurburg, then i should be okay for the rest. Except stupid Rio, who puts curbs in the middle of a race track really!

Never heard of HBR Guys, I’ll have to check them out. Well done on the top 10, bet you where well made up.

I find that I am paying too much attention on what I am doing and when, instead of the track. First time using the clutch was hilarious, was like my first driving lesson. Supprised the cars gear box and clutch didn’t explode on me! Even after I wrapped my head round it, I wasn’t letting off the gas quick enough and wasn’t feathering when coming back off the clutch, on the replay all you could hear was sudden massive revs, a nasty grind then massive revs…

I do want to get the purist driving feel possible though, so going to stick with it and get the shifter at some point. It’s really good fun.

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