This is on the PC but has been known to happen on the Xbox in the past. The following is happening with my Thrustmaster TH8A shifter.
Is anyone taking tranny damage while downshifting with a H patter shifter? This has been a known issue in almost all the Forza series. Every time I heel toe downshift I take transmission damage. The clutch is fully depressed and it still happens. I have tried not rev matching and it sometimes still takes damage. I’ve tried increasing the upper limit deadzone to 50% and it still happens. Thus when I play with friends online my races are compromised when we turn ON simulation damage.
Can anyone tell me the proper way to do it? And do it quickly without losing much time to those on controllers? Those guys seems to be able to double press 2 buttons and do instant shifts without taking damage or doing rev matches.
Please Turn 10, can we just remove the transmission damage model in this game when using manual transmission with clutch? The model is extremely inaccurate. Basically, this is forcing me to stop using my H pattern shifter during online races that I’ve paid good money for. No other PC racing game I’ve played gives me transmission damage. When I drive on the race track in real life I’ve never damaged the transmission in my race car.
Please can someone help or can we get a patch that completely removes this “feature”.
Yep, same here. Clutch is fully floored, but it still gives me the “cracklng” noise sometimes when downshifting.
Not to mention that rolling starts always give me 4% transmission damage, since the game makes my car go max rev at the start of the race.
This sadly prevents me from playing with sim damage.
The clutch is always fully depressed before downshifting happens and sometimes the transmission still takes damage. This is what has me confused. Has anyone been able to consistently perform downshifts without taking an absurd amount of damage on the transmission during a race with simulation damage?
Like Ialyrn said it’s most likely timing. You must not move the shifter before the clutch is fully depressed, clutch in…shift…clutch out. Not shifting while still depressing the clutch.
You can also use the TM software to “shorten” the throw of the shifter, by bringing the shift point closer to the center. Be aware that bringing it to close to the center will give you trouble on the upshifts though.
Edit: On roling starts put the shifter in 2nd gear (best bet) and keep the clutch depressed until the countdown reaches 0 and release.
Just make sure to fully press the clutch pedal, before even touching the shifter and hitting the gas with your heel while the shifter goes through the neutral position. And release it only when the gear is fully engaged. It took me a few laps to get used to heel-toe in this game without getting the gear grind. Other games seems to be a bit easier. It is not too difficult; it’s just different than in other games. Just do it slow.
Please try these settings too. Might not seem like a lot, but it helps a ton:
I thought I might be doing that so I set the Clutch Outside deadzone to 50. So basically that means when the clutch is 50% depressed it acts like it is fully pressed.
The idea was if the pedal wasn’t fully being pressed to a 100% travel, as I was changing gears , at 50% clutch pedal travel the game thinks it’s at a 100% engagement and thus hopefully avoids the absurd level of damage. But I still got grinding at 50% Outside deadzone. Maybe I’ll move the Outside deadzone to 10%, meaning at 10% clutch pedal travel the game thinks its fully pressed, treating it more like a button on the controller and thus avoiding damage.
This has happened in all older versions of Forza. It’s like the developers haven’t touched the code for shifting with a clutch on pedals through all those versions of Forza. My concern is if I do what you guy suggest, then there is no way to keep up with controller player as shifting with a H pattern shifter and clutch pedal is much slower. The controller players manage to shift with the flick of a button. It discourages competitive players who also want realism from using the H pattern shifter during an online race.
I know its not a perfect solution, but could you set it to just manual and “roleplay” the clutch?
When I have mods that are manual I still find myself using the clutch, it just doesn’t do anything.
I know thats a far cry from ideal given that you have bought the equipment, but this is just my two cents. Hope T10 look into this, I would like to buy a wheel and whatnot but not if i’m going to have problems using it w forza
I know what we said sounds terribly slow but it isn’t in reality, the most important thing is the timing. Start off slow in free play and slowly speed up your shifting to find the correct timing.
The controller users and button clutch wheel users still have to time their button presses though, it’s not as simple as just pressing the clutch and shift button at the same time as it was in the X360 days. You have to press and hold the A button and roll your thumb to the X or B button.
People that use the auto clutch function from the Fanatec or Thrustmaster wheels have the biggest advantage (Xbox only) in both shift time and timing.
One last tip: Spend some PI points on a clutch upgrade in your build, it helps ALOT with this problem.
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I think I found a solution that works of me.
Now if they fix the launching from a standing start for wheel players I’ll set.