I found a write up online on how to give your TX more feeling by making FFB adjustments in the control panel on a PC. This is what I posted in a different topic. Give it a try and see what you think.
If you are looking for more feeling in the TX wheel, plug your wheel into a PC and go to the Thrustmaster control panel. From there click on the right tab marked perameters this will bring up the force feed back settings that are stored in the firmware memory. from here I adjusted the overall force to 85, Constant setting to 100%, Periodic setting to 0, Spring to 0, Damper to 0 and left the auto center by game (I messed with the wheel setting at 50%, but it was choppy). This gave me considerable more feeling in the wheel as to what the car was doing. I even tried the constant, periodic and spring set to 100% and that gave me more feeling in the wheel. The only thing with this is if you play Pcars then you will need to reset the adjustments back to default in the control panel. You lose some feeling in the TX wheel in the Pcars game with these settings. I had the DOR at 540 and the sensitivity set to normal.
OK guys, I just tried playing and before I started every race I hit the guide button to see the dashboard, then hit B to go back into the game. Played for a little over 2 hours and the problem didn’t happen once. Worth a shot, only takes a few seconds to do.
I have been racing for several hours on my TX tonight and have not seen any issues. I was also not aware of a recent firmware update as mentioned above…was this announced somewhere?
I have the exact same issue when playing except with me it doesn’t start pulling left when braking until I’ve hit the third or fourth lap.
Way beyond annoying, I’m usually in the lead when it starts up.
Tried the wheel with Project Cars for 10 laps and had NO issues, so this is definitely a Forza 6 only issue, and yes firmware and drivers are updated.
I hope this issue isn’t pushed aside because of how few people have the wheel, Turn 10s game support isn’t even close too the same league as Mad.
Mine is similar, but instead of pulling left/right, it just puts FFB back to 100%. I normaly drive 40/50 wich is ok for me, but online after a race or 2, it just pops back to 100. I’ve tried several stuff like disconnecting controller and such, but it goes well 1 race, then next race its 100 again. Specialy a turny track I cant even finish the race, arms are sore halfway.
well, i have tried many different wheels settings and other methods and still have the problem. it doesnt matter what i do. i hope Turn10 sees this problem. every game i have used this wheel on works fine but forza 6.
My TX works fine after I found the sweetspot for my liking, 420 DOR, Sensitivity Mode 3 and FFB at 65, now I can catch a slide and drift with ease and the car is stable at high speed, I only wish there was better FFB in this game.
How dig u put 420 DOR? I understand that you put 420 on advanced settings in forza but what settings on the tx itself? 2 blinks = 360 DOR 3 blinks = 540 DOR?
Tnx
Same problems here. I need to quit the game and reload to sort the feedback issues. I also have a strange one after an hour or so where the paddles no longer change gear but rear view instead! Change gear then reverts to the X B buttons. The control don’t change in the settings and only a reload sorts this out. I have the latest firmware and horizon 2 works perfectly. This needs a fix ASAP.
Same here, as if the steer suddenly become ‘controller inputs’ (where RB is default for view rear) and X/B are shift up/down.
But additionaly, when you use B on wheel, on wheel layout one, it also becomes handbrake, thus shift up you also hit handbrake a short moment.
The current thing I found is to load the game with the wheel (I have controller connected and signed in for headset), use the menu/lobby acces with wheel, then it seems to work ok. Untill at one point u use controller to go out poof all messed up.
well i hope turn10 has seen this post to know about the problem. along with all the other problems people are posting on here. Just a “we will check it out” would be nice. anything?
All you guys with this issue, do you have a kinect? On the tx wheel there’s that black lens thing that the kinect sees so it can recognize who’s using it. A lot of people have said they had issues with the screen saver going on while playing, and now you guys are having issues with it thinking your using a controller all of the sudden. I think it has to be some kind of glitch with people without kinect. Most people i see posting with wheel issues like these seem to be newer xbox owners so you most likely didn’t buy one with the kinect. I have a kinect and I haven’t had any issues like these, and I’ve used the wheel before and after a controller while in the the game menus and i also never have to hard reset the Xbox for it to work like a lot of people seem to have to do whenever they use it, mine just works.
Yes I have kinect and yes I have this issue. Has happened nearly every time I play. Just got this wheel, worried it was faulty.
Googled it and found this forum
still nothing has been fixed… seems like theres just a small number of us having this issue and id really like to know if it is getting worked on or not. its driving me nuts! every time i go play online, every other race i have to pull over and restart the wheel. of course i get dead last every time. im about to throw the **** game and wheel out the window. or i guess just keep on playing forza 5 because i have no problems playing that game. im ready for forza 7…
I and my nephew are both experiencing this annoying issue and do hope it gets fixed in the next update.
It is a software issue with FM6, because it NEVER happens when I played FM5 and FH2. I have a hunch this problem can be traced to new/revised SDK Microsoft published to developers when they decided to not include Kinect in X1 bundles. This allowed a certain percentage of memory and CPU cycles that games can use instead of Kinetic(less X1). However, these resources are dynamic and I think over the course of a race something in memory gets corrupted affecting FFB. That’s why resetting the wheel or going to the Controller/Wheel section and pressing A, calls some function and resets/clears the corrupted memory - until it happens again. FM5 and FH2 were developed on older SDKs prior to MS announcement (Kinect less XB1) and therefore more stable and that’s why we are not seeing these issues in FM5 or FH2.
Hopefully, T10 or Playground Studios “world class” software engineers can identify and resolve this issue soon! Please?!?!
I’ve been dealing with the left pulling bug on my TX as well.
I figured out how to get rid of it, but that means turning RUMBLE OFF. Which sucks because the lame FFB becomes even more lifeless.
The bug seems to be, on my end, directly associated with the rumble mechanism. I’ve tested this thoroughly, and I’m pretty confident that RUMBLE (found in the control settings main page) is the culprit.
Hope this helps.
I’ve reduced my VIBRATION setting as some others have suggested and this has not resolved the issue for me . FFB still goes wonky after a few laps/races.
For T10 or Playground studios, I have my headset connected to my controller so I can communicate online. I do notice, that if I don’t touch the A,X,Y, or B button or D pad on the controller, the FFB issue occurs less. However, when I use my controller to navigate through menus and settings, instead of buttons and D pad on TX (for example when tuning) I notice that FFB goes wonky when in my next race. Very strange??? So not using the controller lessens the FFB issue, but it eventually reoccurs. But, when using the controller as mentioned above, it’s almost guaranteed that FFB goes wonky when I start next race.
. FFB still goes wonky after a few laps/races.