Don’t expect the world, but you might be able to mitigate it slightly. If your pressures are close to dialed in already then I’d probably start by dropping a single increment of pressure at the front first and see what it does. Treat the end of the car with the problem first. If that doesn’t work, replace what you took out and try adding an increment to the rear.
You can reduce understeer by gradually reducing the pressure of the front tires. Reducing pressure will give the tires a larger contact patch with the track, increasing grip and reducing understeer.
Be careful not to drop the pressure too much. If you do, the car will feel a bit more sluggish while cornering, since the softer tires will actually act as a softer second suspension, which means the car will compress more at the front. Also, reducing tire pressures too much will make it harder to get temperature into the tires, so they may get cold and lose grip. Finally, lower pressures tend to increase tire degradation as well.
Thanks for the advice guys. I’ll give it a go!
Doesn’t lowering rear pressure more than front make the car rotate not as well? Is lowering rear pressure more than front recommended for super high powered mid engine cars like the Jesko? That car goes from understeer to oversteer real quick.
Also is raising diff accel recommended for that car?
I tried stiffening springs and ABR’s on the Jesko and 919 and they felt like they were on ice. What made the BIGGEST difference for me with the Jesko was lowering the crazy high stock anti squat 44 setting to 2.4. Now it actually hooks and stays stable with hard throttle as I imagine because it’s squatting more.
lower in the rear is just due to there being more downforce at the rear of the car, so more pressure will be applied on the wheels heating them up more. But that is specific to GT cars, my basic guidelines may not be a good idea for normal cars. I wouldn’t know though as I only mess with gt cars