We still have to go into settings every time we launch the game to select our custom wheel layout profile because the game just automatically selects a default layout. In my case the default layout isn’t even compatible with my wheel because it detects my wheel incorrectly.
I’m using a Thrustmaster T300RS. Game detects as a T300 Ferrari Edition (completely different button layout that isn’t compatible with the T300RS).
I really thought something seemingly so simple would be fixed by now, after two major updates.
On the bright side, there are more Fanatec configurations. But I’m willing to bet my configuration will never be a standard that Turn 10 puts in the game. I’M using a CSL-DD, V1 CSL Elite LC pedals and a Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (on PC). Seeing that some specific steering wheels are shown, and the only Fanatec wheelbase I see is the CSL-DD, at least says that Turn 10 is actually working on wheel issues. Just not every wheel mfg, I take it?
Although I did read that someone’s Thrusty SF1000 either partially works, or is able to use the screen… I don’t really remember what that forum member wrote.
I have had this oscillation issue from release. Some settings lessen the shaking but then the wheel feels numb.
Logitech G Pro wheel
Its much more full on shaking than any other game.
zero out wheel damping and center spring scale is what cause oscillation (also in other games btw.)
some wheels more - some wheels less - all brands
Just take look to the offical Advanced Wheel Tuning guide:
Lowering Center Spring Scale too much may cause steering oscillation.
Lowering Wheel Damper Scale too much may cause steering oscillation. Effectively, it adds a resistance force to the steering that may prevent oscillation but at the same time it slows down the steering wheel velocity, making drifting, where you need quick reaction from the steering wheel, more difficult.
It seems to be car specific in some cases. Had managed to setup with no oscillation to all the cars I have driven so far. But boy the Valkyrie I just drove now, is oscillation nightmare. Had to recheck my settings and driver, yup everything fine and test another fast car, all is good.
Go back to Valkyrie and boom crazy oscillation even going downhill was bad. Then I tuned the geometry of suspension and raised a bit and although still there at least it does not want to rip my arms out on my DD wheel.
Ah well maybe that is because the Valkyerie can do about 4000 laps on most track with a full tank and even @ 5% it is like 350 laps. So perhaps so much magic fuel is shaking around in my fuel tank causing the oscillation…who knows with this FM.
Your settings are not right, you have to proper tune them.
Also wheel angle, has to be high 900 or more and sensitivity at 50 and never touch them while tuning.
Also setting in game, tune the wheel with a car with TOE IN, even 0.2 is enough. Just be sure in telemetry the Wheel forces(NOT FFB) Left and right are pointing to each other.
It happens only with the Valkyrie. I am not touching my Driver settings which works with all my racing games and I am not touching the Wheel settings in FM anymore as it has worked with all other cars thus far for me.
If the issue occur with a few more cars maybe i tweak things up, but as it is because it only in one, it is easier to just tone it down, if possible, within that car tune.
EDIT: Actually to try to finish Yas Marina without breaking my setup or get injured, I rewinded on the long strait and tried related settings increasing/decreasing 5 points at time. Wheel Damping scale, Center Spring scale any where 0-200 resulted in no perceivable difference. Car hit 290Km/h big oscillation. Tried different lock range. Wheel is 1080, usually do 66% for normal car, but 50% or 33% for very fast one.
Only thing made a slight difference is 1 to inside steering deadzone while not touching at all in strait. But that meant a loose in the center of wheel and the moment you just move slightly it came up and was now worsened by going thru the deadzone stopping and pushing harder once moving to other side. So that was also a no.
Clearly something is wrong with that car or perhaps that is micking it’s true behavior? Reset my setting went to drive similarly capable cars #6 Acura, Intensa Emozione, Pininfarina Bastita (which has it’s own problem but no oscillation), Veyron SS, Cadillac V-Series, Ford GT 2017, Jesko, X-bow GT2, #2 Porsche 919, Saleem S7, Lambo Superveloce, Ginetta #6 (quite hard to drive but no oscillation), Ferrari FXX K, Corvette E-Ray, McLaren Senna, and newly acquired Pagani Huayra R.
Agreed, the default tune on the Valkyrie is absolutely diabolical. I have a CSL DD, and generally every other car I’ve tried feels pretty good or at least manageable. Not only does the Valkyrie have massive oscillation, but as soon as you feel the back start to step out, it becomes a major moment, you try to correct and then get a huge snap of oversteer in the opposite direction…usually sending you into an unrecoverable spin.
To make matters worse, if you get just a touch over-eager with the throttle and have any amount of steering input applied, the rear tires throw up their hands in desperation, your grip disappears, and off you go into another spin.
I managed to dial out most of the oscillation by adding a bit of Natural Inertia (NIN) and lowering the FEI to 80 (from 100) in the Fanatec Control Panel.
Spending about 60-90 minutes of mindless level grinding, I managed to unlock most of the parts and I was able to at least make the car so that i could drive it relatively consistently and not wind up backwards in the barriers every 30 seconds. Wider, stickier tires, max downforce, softening up the rear suspension, and lowering the on-throttle diff all helped.
This is just another shining example of why the carPG system is so frustrating. I drove the car for 5 minutes and had a pretty good idea of the changes i needed to make to get the car feeling how i wanted. But then it took an hour and a half of pointlessly running laps so i could unlock the parts that i could’ve just instantly bought with credits in past games.