Have you ever been on the assetto corsa forums? The developers are far more active there than here, and their bug reporting system through the forum are excellent. If you have an issue with the game you simply post in the appropriate support section and label the thread with a [Issue] tag, the developer can then change this tag to let you know they are aware of the issue or are working to fix it by tagging it with [known issue] or [working on it] or [as designed] or [no issue]. On top of this system there rate of fixing bugs is very good, go read some of their patch notes and see how many little things get fixed or tweaked to make the game better. One thing that stands out is their passion for their simulation which T10 seem to be lacking in recent years
I think i found a “fix” for this by accident. [Mod Edit - Abbreviated profanity, profanity and profanity that is disguised but still alludes to the words are not permitted - D]. So i decided to try again on the next day with my Controller… So i did and got pretty good times (Top 700).
Then i thought “what if i set FFB-Scale to 0, will this fix the FFB issues?”, since the Controller obviously doesn’t emulate any FFB.
Now to the “fix”, after a couple of laps i went back to the main menu of the game and switched off the Controller by holding the Nexus-Button and selected “Turn off Controller”, then i plugged in my TX-Wheel and even forgot to go to Controller/Wheel-Settings. So i drove with my default settings below at 1 Flash (default Sensivity) AND WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT WAS!
No more Slides or Skids when turning in sharp or accelerating fast out of a corner, i felt way more Grip, like you have with the Controller. It is like Forza recognized the Wheel but somehow the Physics of the Controller were still active in the background, i don’t know how to describe it properly.
It really was night and day! I proceeded to drive with 4WD, FWD and RWD Cars (mostly Porsches) and it was really great fun, i even turned all Assists off and bested my Time von RIO with the Ford GT (now sitting at 1:36, best Controller-Time was 1:37).
My Settings on the Controller: All Deadzones 0-100, Vibration 25
My (usual) Settings on the Wheel: 540 DOR, Sensivity 2 Flashes, All Deadzones 0 - 100, Vibration 24, FFB-Scale 60
My Settings on the Wheel after the “fix”: 540 DOR, Sensivity 1 Flash (default), All Deadzones 0 - 100, Vibration 25, FFB-Scale 60
Now please, test this out and tell me your Feedback!
TL/DR: Load up Forza 6 with a Controller, do some laps, turn of Controller while game is running, plug in your Wheel and enjoy = FFB fixed! No More Skids/Slides!
I just want to make sure I fully understand the process here. You didn’t turn the FFB to zero at any point. You drove with the controller, turned the controller off, plugged the wheel in whilst the game was running. I assume you did peddle calibration and that was it running fine or should I have those settings setup before attempting this?
Nope i didn’t turn down FFB-Scale. I completely forgot to go to Settings. I didn’t even bother with pedal calibration, though it should not affect the “fix”.
Just turn Controller off and plugin your Wheel and you’re good to go! Let me kbow what you Think.
Tried the settings I mentioned earlier on the Gallardo ST and I think they work way better than my previous settings (TX wheel). I had the issue that the Gallardo wouldn’t turn as i wanted it to. Steering is now more direct and the car responds better to steering inputs. My previous settings were: In game 540°, DOR 540, sensitivity 1 blink and normal steering. I switched to 900° in game, 900° DOR, sensitivity 2 blinks and simulation steering. Works way better for me, at least with this particular car on this particular track. I think it’s safe to say it’s worth messing around a little bit with the wheel settings when driving different cars.
I have done test to try determine were clipping occurs in forza but I was inconclusive. I used direct comparisons between 50% and 100% and couldn’t notice any extra detail/effects or feel in the wheel with lowered feedback. This was also the case on forza 4. When I tested it on forza 4 I had my high torque wheel so the range of forces are much greater than the standard wheel and any change in the signal would be easily felt as was the case on the pc Sims but forza always felt the same to me. I feel no loss of feedback from clipping and get no extra feel/more detail when lowering it so I keep it high as I like strong feedback. Until we get a FFB bar in the gel emery there’s no way to know for sure, and different wheels react differently to settings too.
FFB is all personal preference, I found my tx wheel too weak yet some people claim it can rip your arms off. I still beleive though that the flaws of forzas ffb are greatly multiplied on a higher torque wheel
What wheel settings do you normally use? In game and tuning menu on the wheel.
Just off the top of my head, right now in game I’ve got all the deadzones at 0 & 100 with vibration at 85 and FFB is 40 because I messed around again last night with DOR of 540 and FFB at 40 with that same Ferrari at Hockenheim again and picked up about a half second at those settings. So I’m going to test some other classes to see what happens.
On the wheel I match DOR and FFB to what the in game settings are and I think I’ve got those settings towards the end like ABS and LIN set to off but I will have to wait until I got home from work tonight to verify that.
Ok I’m gonna give you a few different things to try and see how you go.
First I’ll give you settings close to mine, keep all your deadzones as they are, lower your vibration setting to 0 (if you can’t drive without the vibration try using it as low as possible, start with +5 increments) turn ffb to 80, and in game dor on 900. Then on the wheel run it in 900 degrees and adjust the ffb on the fly till it feels good for you (that’s what the tuning menu is for 
). I’m not sure what steering setting your using but if your using simulation and find it to twitchy then try using normal steering (if you test in the test drive section you can change it in the pause menu).
Option two, use similar settings as option one but this time set in game DOR to 270 but keep the wheel setting on 900, this will trick the game and give you a much different linearity and give you more wheel range, play again between normal and sim steering as that may make a bit of difference here too. You may find 900 to be too slow in linearity this way so test it out and play with the dor on the wheel while your driving.
Give these a try and let us know how you go
Edit: the reason I suggest turning vibration to zero is because its a fake/canned effect and can sometimes mask the proper info you need and imo it feels fake/unrealistic/arcade like
So still match FFB on the wheel to the 80 in game? Always keep them matched? I’m currently running sim but it doesn’t really matter which one I run because I can’t tell that much difference between them.
no you don’t need to keep them matched, run you ffb on the wheel were it suits you, personally I’d use 100 but you need to find your sweet spot. If your not sure, start at 100 and lower it -10 each time and see were you feel most comfortable.
Normal steering has slower linearity so you will have to turn the wheel more to reach your turning angle in game, which gives you a bit more range of use on your wheel which I thought was what you were after.
Blue, you have a private message.
I last played this game about 3 months ago, found my wheel unusable. Horizon 2 is playable for me however.
Have there been any changes or improvements?
Thanks.
Anyone courteous enough to answer my simple question?
It seems there was an update in January.
http://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst53918_Wheel-users-after-January-update.aspx
Ah cool, I’ll give it a go later on then and let you know what I think. The FFB was rubbish in horizon too, but actually using the wheel was doable.
Thanks for the reply mate.
Yeah, not much has changed here. Still horrific feedback for the TX (feels like an electric bungie cord system to me) and the cars still just don’t do what they should, the grip limit just makes you slide. A radical not able to accelerate out of a slow corner is not correct.
Utter tosh.
Although the force feedback isn’t great with forza, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the grip levels of the cars. If anything the cars have too much grip. The cars are perfectly drivable on a wheel, there is plenty of proof on my YouTube channel, just click on my forum signature.
Why do I need proof from your YouTube channel? Drivable yeah, to a point.
There is so much wrong with how they implemented the FFB/wheel support. If you can’t see that then I don’t know what to say without sounding condescending.
Anyway, let’s not argue, go and enjoy the game and I’ll stew about it! 
The grip levels of the cars and the FFB are two entirely separate things, the FFB only pertains to the device we have chosen to use; the grip level of the cars is whole different matter.
I think you will find that the cars are more than drivable on a wheel, as even the Lotus E23, which is a pain to drive on a control pad without TCS (takes a lot more effort), is extremely easy to drive on a wheel. I have a video of that on my youtube, also have a couple of videos for the Mclaren MP4/4 F1 car, plus the P1 and Laferrari. All driven without TCS/STM, all 100% bone stock, all driven with a wheel. But if you don’t want to look at the proof.
Not once did I disagree with you (or anyone in this thread since Voodoo started it) in regards to the FFB been sub par in Forza though, but it doesn’t stop you from been able to drive properly in game; if you can actually drive that is. I also play other racing games on my PC, which includes Assetto Corsa, iRacing, Raceroom Racing Experience, and Dirt rally; just to name a few. So I know very well what good FFB feels like.