I’ve got to agree, Forza has been a fun but frustrating game with my Thrustmaster Tx Wheel. Forcefeedback is very difficult to read and I spend a lot of time losing control and spinning out into the corner.
So far while playing F6 I have been having issues feeling the weight of a car, cornering and being able to accelerate at the apex of a turn without losing grip and going face first into a wall.
Would love some more work to be done to help out us Wheel users
Yes I agree. It is the same for me. I have been playing Forza from 1 and it is still joypad oriented. The thing I don’t understand is why Turn 10 don’t think about all the wheel users. Project Cars did a great job on FFB, why T10 is not able? Christian, thanks for taking time to post this article but I think you should talk about how renew the Forza Force Feedback System. I tried the Demo and in a few laps I have understood there was the same FFB problem. Players always have to reach a compromise in settings otherwise its very simple to loose the car. I feel myself very sad because I like Forza but I cant’t use WELL my wheel on it. Please if you can, speak about this problems to T10 people, and discuss this argument with them seriously. Thank you. p.s If you will change the FFB System, everybody will be happy…and win!!! Bye!
Thanks for the post addressing al lot of user questions and concerns. A lot of information and very helpful. I did have the same issues with the center force feedback feel as pertaining to recovery when the the car does break loose, it’s feels as if your control with the wheel and the feedback are somewhat just not in sync or connected with what is happening on screen. And one thing I have definitely noticed is under rain conditions the force feedback on the wheel comes in early, way before you hit an oncoming puddle. The wheel jerk and vibration starts before you even hit the puddle.
Thanks for taking the time to help and inform. It’s much appreciated.
Great post, as a long time Forza player… only with a wheel since Forza 2, I would really like to know if there will be some sort of patch addressing the issues. You offer great tis, but they still do not address the root coasue of the problem and that is the car looses traction way to early and at much to low speeds.
Please try the VIP Rivl at COTA with the Mclaren P1 it’s almost impossible to drive through the esses and the 4 apex left hander… also at the very low speeds like into the stand section and the 1st and final turns, the car is very unsettled much to easily. This is completely off for Wheel Users and is unfair considering ll the money paid for TX Wheel, and TP3A Pro Pedals, after I had alredy forked out hundreds for my CSR (FM Wheel) and the Club Sport Pedals. FM4 never had these issues and I don’t feel them in FH2… only FM5 and FM6.
Also, see the comments with respect to the STM being on vs. off it does seem to help, though I’m not convinved as others are that its a bug/glitch… just stablizing the car although the P1 at COTA is still a beast to manage with a wheel.
Again thanks for the information Christian and the time it took for you to explain it to us… we all love Forza and as myself and many wheel users (owners of the Ultimate edition) surly hope we are not left out in the cold with all the extra money spent to try and simply enjoy the game from a much more realistic point of playing.
I am currently using the Thrustmaster TX 458 Italia wheel, I find that the best settings for me is to put the game at 900 degrees. And have zero deadzones and 100% on everything else. Now going back to the steering with that 900 degrees of rotation in game, I then hold down the left d pad and the mode button for three seconds and let go, The wheel should flash 3 times in red by the mode button. This configuration seems to work best with all vehicles for me, I also have my force feedback down to 75.
Going to have to put you on moderation for not posting this in the hardware section. ; P Lol
So does the same thing happen with a controller and should we also have an outside and inside deadzone of say 1% to ensure no phantom inputs and make sure we can also reach 100% ?
I was trying to explain this on one of the my TX doesn’t work threads. Another reason to have the low end dead zone to 1 or 2 is that if you drive in Automatic and crash the brake after stopping turns into reverse. If the gas is off a little it will keep reading as gas on and won’t activate the reverse fir the car. I drive in manual but my friend uses auto when he plays on my set up. He kept saying it was not going into reverse, turns out it was because he was very lightly pressing the gas without knowing it and that’s why it would not go into reverse. I hope this helps someone out having this problem.
thx for your very nice description to handle the wheel settings…
but
i think we have a big bug in this game and i think thats why so many people talking about issues with FFB.
in my case the wheel settings that i made r only saved for the first race. if the game loads a new race (multiplayer or campaign) the settings are lost and forza take random wheel settings.
maybe thats why so many guys talking about FFB issues?
my wheel is a Logitech G920 and it works in other games perfect.
It’s not a settings problem. You have to understand that a lot of us complaining about the FFB are coming from PC or other titles that have far superior FFB.
The most important part of the FFB should replicate the forces you feel in a real car, which is the self aligning torque. Real cars are designed so the the front wheels always try to point in the direction the car is moving, if you watch some onboard drifting videos you will see they often let the wheel go as the front wheels are turning by them self to match the direction the car is moving. This is the main part of the FFB that doesn’t work, if you try this in forza you will crash because the wheel doesn’t respond to the car properly causing a disconnect between us and the car.
This is were you feel resistance in the wheel when turning because the car should always what to go straight (relatively speaking) as you turn the wheel you are forcing the car to change its directional force creating a shift in the g-forces if you let go of the wheel mid turn it should just make the car return back straight again. A perfect yet tragic example of this would be Senna’s fatal crash, high load corner and the steering shaft broke, making the front wheels straight out of the turn and into the wall.
This force should also helps to tell you when you’ve reached the maximum turning grip as the turning force will weaken as you reach the peak slip angle of the front tyres.
This part of the FFB is what is the most important, it let’s us feel how much grip we have, when we exeeded the front grip (understeer) and when we exeed rear grip (oversteer) should counter steer and feel connected with the car.
All other effects of the FFB ie. Rumble strip, bumps vibrations are simply icing on the cake, but if it’s a crap cake it won’t make much difference.
I appreciate you taking the time to write up this info VoodooUomo, I look forward to reading your post on FFB