Some cars are just impossible for me to drive

Forza Motorsport Legacy Motorsport FM5 Discussion
1

I don’t really get it. I’d like to think I’ve become pretty decent at the game as a whole, but there are certain cars I can drive really well and others I am truly pathetic in. One car I would love to drive more is the Lotus Elan. I just can’t get the back end to stop sliding all over the place on me though. Same thing with the Mazda Miata. Watching a replay of me in those cars is hideous. I’m worse in the Miata. Its not just a RWD thing either as I’ve gotten rather comfortable with a Buick GNX, a few Camaros, 190E, BMW Turbo2000, 71 Nissan Skyline and the Datsun 510. The Honda S2000 is one of the FWD cars that I don’t get along with, but there are others. It just amazes me the differences in some cars.

I was in a lobby the other night with a guy that drove a different car in every race. He drove them all very well too. I found myself really jealous because if you take away my “comfort” cars, I’m lost.

I’m not giving up on the Lotus as I really like it overall. I just find it very difficult to handle.

2

Throttle lift over? You like the rearend planted? Do you hate rear engine cars?

3

If you can drive that beemer and 510, then the miatas and elan shouldn’t be much of a problem. They all require similar inputs but the miata is really forgiving towards hard driving.

Might just need a better tune?

4

Dude, I’m so bad in the Miata that I can’t even go in a straight line. The Lotus I can do well in for spurts it seems. I will lose that back end at some point though. I’ve heard lots of people say that Beemer is tough to drive. Maybe its just ignorance on my part, but its one of the cars I did well in from the first time I drove it and I never had an issue with it. The 510 is very easy for me to drive, its just really slow with me behind the wheel, about 5 seconds a lap slower than my Mini.

And to the other responses… No, I don’t hate RWD cars. I actually prefer them. I do most of my own tuning now. I don’t claim to be great at it, but I’ve put together a nice group of cars that do very well with the right driver behind the wheel. Sometimes that driver is even me :slight_smile:

5

You just need a good tune for these tail happy cars. Don’t be afraid to put much more down force on the rear wing than front or don’t even use the front wing at all. Also you should try to lower the rear sway bar and increase the front. Do the same with springs and dampening stiffer front softer rear.

You can fix most oversteer issues with these changes, if you still have issues increase the difference between front and rear stiffness and wings. Note that wings effect high speed corners more and suspension affects lower speed corners more than wings. Also try increasing your diff to like 75\75 on these tail happy cars.

6

You just need a better tune for the miatas. They are super responsive though so maybe that’s your issue? And yea the elan does that sometimes. That’s nothing new. Lol. That is odd that you haven’t had beemer problems but are with these cars. That’s why I think it’s partly a tune problem. I can’t give out my gen 1 but I know of a tune for the other miata. I’ll have to look to see if its shared.

7

Honda S2000 is RWD

PS: I will sort you some cars out for you to have fun in :wink:

8

Is it? Guess that just shows how little I know about it.

9

There are a number of cars that are tricky to drive with the stock tune, even for me. (I pride myself on being able to drive anything.)

I recommend either A: downloading a tune.
-or-
B: learn to tune.

There’s plenty of info over in the “Tuner’s Lounge.” I’m no expert tuner but I feel like I’m getting the hang of it these days.

For example, I thought the 458 Italia was ridiculous to drive stock. After spending some time with it and tuning it to fit my style of driving, I can effortlessly pilot that beast around any track. It may not be top-of-the-leaderboard material but it’s definitely a good lobby car now.

It definitely takes more research and experimentation to learn to tune, but in the end you get to set up the cars how you see fit, instead of rolling in someone else’s tune with a hideous rim choice. (J/K!)

10

Get yourself a decent tune, that’'ll sort your ride out and you know then that anything else you struggle with can be ironed out with practice.

11

To makes cars, that are tricky, easier to drive hard, just correct with some good tuning.

I run a very similar tune across the board for all my cars, and they work. Hell, I can even max an Ariel Atom with this tune, while running no assists.

Suspension: Stiffer front-to-back ratio, soften the racing springs by 1/3rd. Adjust rear suspension stiffness as needed (softer rear for more natural neutral-throttle understeer, harder rear for more natural neutral-throttle oversteer.) Raise ride height by two clicks both front and rear.

Camber: Have 0.2 difference in camber between front and back. For front engined, rear wheel drive cars, use a higher front-to-back camber ratio (example: 1.3 front, 1.1 rear.) For rear/mid engined, rear wheel drive, use a higher rear-to-front ratio (example: 1.1 front, 1.3 rear). Adjust front camber accordingly for power on understeer or oversteer (more front camber for oversteer, less front camber for understeer).

Toe: Depends on the track, but only use up to -0.2 on the rear of the car, under extreme circumstances.

Caster: 5.5 - 5.7. It does very little, but does help low speed cornering, and hinders high-speed, high camber cornering (not recommended for Alps circuit.)

Anti-Roll: Soften by 1/3rd, like suspension. Ideally, do a 16.00 front stiffness, and a 13.00 rear stiffness for most cars.

Diff: 25% acceleration, 20% deceleration. Adjust upwards or downwards depending on driver preference.

Brake Bias: 48% rear, always. Under breaking, the the weight transfer shifts forward violently over the front axle, causing inefficient, inconsistant braking, and shifting the break bias 48% to the rear, counter balances this affect for the most part, without sacrificing control. Adjust as needed as this does not work with track toy cars, as those are too light for this setting to have any affect.

Good luck, and remember that practice with these tricky cars are key to understanding them!

12

For me I am terrible with the F1 and GP cars. As long as I stay away from rumble strips, I am fine, but if I even think about touching one my car spins out and crashes.

13

How dare you call the S2000 a FWD!!! Blasphemy!!! In all seriousness though, it’s all but throttle control. That, and being smooth are the things that matter most in a race. In my opinion, at least.

14

just go more rear neg camber than front it should help the elan out.

15

I would have never even thought of trying that… Will give that a shot and see what happens.

For now, everything is in D class. I will be moving up to C fairly soon though and might consider using the Elan there when I do if I ever get it to work for me.

16

hey lou what class are these little demons you are having issues with? it may be a tune issue or just a build issue,or in my case a driver issue lol