I’m wondering if it’s best to pick a car I’m 100% comfortable with so that I can master the racing lines for every track first, and then once I know the optimal racing line, move onto more cars?
Thing is, if I’m constantly swapping cars, I’m more focusing on making sure I can handle the car rather than focusing on learning the racing lines.
What do you guys think?
Race the track, feel the grip.
In my opinion the racing line assist is a great help in learning the tracks, and it adjusts based on each car you drive.
You need to pick where you are weakest to focus on. Track knowledge is good but car handling and good race etiquette more than make up for a lack of layout planning.
I would set race length to long in career and just play the events. Fifteen minute races on random tracks gives you enough time to understand the car and track and allow you to move on to another combination quickly enough to avoid feeling stale.
I’d pick a couple cars from your favorite couple divisions to focus on. For the racing line, use corner braking only if you do use it. Using full racing line makes you focus more on the line than what you’re really doing. Brake line only gives you enough intel on the corners to know about when to slow down.
-k
I would start off each track in the vehicle you are most comfortable; practice until you have consistent lap times and feel the “rhythm” of the track. Switch to a similar layout vehicle and see if you can come within a second of that same time, if so move on to a different engine layout, rinse repeat. Given a fairly equal P.I. rating the cars should be all fairly close to one another, with no more than a 3-5 second split per division and highlighting which engine layout you are best with and which layout needs the most work.
I’m sorry but I have to disagree with this because some cars break class restrictions while others just suck. If you are using an AMG you probably are going to lose badly and on top of that have next to not control over the car no matter how much throttle control you have. Same goes for the caddy’s. If you tuned those up to class S and you tried to race the GT40 or F50 (both of which clearly and obviously break the class restrictions when you compare them to every other car) I would expect for you to be 3-5 seconds behind them every lap.
What’s better is to know exactly what the Leaderboard cars are and either leave those out of your comparison if you are not trying to build one or vice versa if you are trying to make a car similar to a LB car.
Also the gap between some classes is massive. A Class A car stands no chance against a class S car, but the gap isn’t as wide from class D to C, or from C to B for example.
It really depends on the situation tbh.
Yes, you are correct; the differences in various Classes can be drastic. Where did I mention Class? I kept it Division and Holmogated; keeping the cars competitive to one another in their given P.I. Which AMG do you speak; I’ve found them more than capable within limits. The only way a car breaks Class restriction is by going out of its P.I. range; Division/Holmogation do the restricting with further P.I. or tire restrictions and dreaded Restrictor plates. Does this system have flaws, absolutely; I’m quicker in a normal GT/SS/458 than I am in the GT350/LZ1/Speciale, but it keeps them all competitive allowing for driver error mistakes on track being the cause of time, not tuning.
What the OP is asking, is if he should learn the “optimal” racing line of each track, first in a car they are comfortable with and then move on to other cars, remaining a consistent driver on the track across the various layouts; or constantly swap vehicles every time they try and learn/run the track. A tracks overall “optimal” line remains the same, vehicle layout and capability dictate one’s attack of that line.
It does not take a “tune” to be competitive in Multiplayer, to win is another matter. I raced in B Class multiplayer last night, in the new CTR; took the restrictor plate off and added a cage, that’s it. I was always in the top 10 out of 20+, got as high as #4 at one point, on tracks I know, beating quiet a few drivers who just have to download or tune cause that’s the only way to be competitive. I was satisfied knowing a FF with no race parts, no tune, even had stock tire pressure, could play in the top half of the field constantly; I even still use ABS and TCS. Shame really as I don’t see the CTR being competitive in A class where it can be “tuned”; this is where Division/Holmogation hurt the game with certain vehicles.
No offense but top 10 out of 20+ is pretty bad considering the fact that 96-98% of this playerbase is god awful, it’s rare for me to not get top 5 yet alone a podium, even if I get wrecked out
Cookie, cracker or biscuit? Guess you’re just a cut above the rest of us. Why swing for the fences if one is simply having issues making contact with the ball?
There’s a fair number of cars in this game which drive very well on stock setups. In such examples, the people who need a Race suspension are probably looking for extra hundredths of a second, and that’s when they don’t just run Sport and use the gained PI somewhere else.
Race rollbars are cheap though and should always be there.
I have nothing against Tuning and those who do so; I just feel that a vast majority of people go that route before ever trying to learn to make the car work for them first, so they actually know where they need to tune. Instead a lot of people will just download a 5 star tune on a popular car and think they’re set; then end up in the mad house that is Multiplayer.
I do “limit” myself in the game by not “Tuning”, I will add parts/power but never go to the Tune sub menu and start playing around. Not true as I have the Tuning achievement; sorry for whoever purchased my “tune” with tire pressure changes. To me it allows me to appreciate what separates one car from the next, one generation to the next. I have no issues with accepting my “personal restrictions” and where I end up in the field. I’m not suggesting that another Player follow my lead and restrict themselves, only learn what a car is capable of in their hands before relying on someone else to tell them what it needs. Instead of a “power” tune, which typically means a loose car; perhaps they should be looking at a car with a “grip” tune instead in order to actually get around the track.
If it shaves weight and does not take me outside of P.I. restrictions, its put on a car.
Going to disagree with this one as well, without a race suspension you will be faced with the problem of understeer which cost me more than a second per lap because the car refuses to turn
Incorrect. If there is understeer, this can be fixed via roll bars, brake bias, downforce, and differential. There have been cars in the past that were faster with sport/street spring upgrades. There have been quite a few tuners who have explored this option and came away with stupidly quick cars. I know, because I got my butt spanked.
The again, there are cars that are pretty responsive from the start. One that come to mind is the Pontiac GTO. I’ve found myself adding understeer to the car because it was too responsive at times.
roll bars affect the car in the corner, if you are understeering before you turn in, it’s going to slow you down
differential has to deal with how your car shifts and how stiff/loose the car is, most cars are tuned to be stiff to have control, in forza motorsports 7 the moment you start slipping/lose traction it’s over, you cannot regain that traction, don’t believe me? Then go to any track with a high speed sweeping corner, push your car just to the point beyond where it loses traction and see what it takes to regain that traction, I’ve had plenty of 60 mph corners where I was going sub 40 and still could not regain traction because of how the physics in FM7 work
braking has no effect on steering in this game, it only affects how stable you are entering the corner, braking on a corner causes the car to massively understeer and lose traction which is what you do not want, the only thing you are worried about is the maximum amount of brake pressure that you can have while still having stability in the car
not sure how downforce reduces understeer because downforce in itself adds understeer, if you look at any professional forza tuning channel they will tell you the same thing, if you are looking to fix understeer or oversteer the first place you should start looking is the suspension, then look at the other areas to add more control to the car
I am in the middle of the top 1% so I have a pretty good idea as to what to tune and what not to tune
if you want understeer the #1 ways of doing that is to bring the suspension settings closer together by making the front stiffer and adding more downforce, if you want more oversteer then you separate the suspension settings and reduce the stiffness of the front suspension more sometimes stiffening the rear depending on how stiff you want the front to be while removing downforce or the wing itself
the only thing that anti roll bars does is affect how lose your car is while turning, ARBs are for taking wide, sweeping corners which is what you should be tuning those for, unless you are driving an AWD car you are better off leaving those stiff rather than lose and using the suspension instead so you can actually turn in and maintain good traction and control during the corner
And as I’ve said before, if you are racing in at least class C or above, most cars will need that racing suspension, I’ve already done multiple tests (for reference I have about 240 in game racing hours and 30 in game hours for tuning), skill can somewhat make up for a lack of turning, but you are racing, not hot lapping. On top of losing that time from not being able to turn properly it makes it hard to compete with cars that can and forces you to slow down even more than you originally would have. I tested both handling and full speed cars with and without a race suspension, even with a full speed car you are better off having that suspension than not, and having that suspension in a car built for racing means that your turn in response is that much better shaving off some serious seconds from your lap as your able to push your car to its limits without it fighting and understeering in the middle of a corner. It’s easy enough to get away with in slower cars where it does not matter anywhere near as much, but once you hit class b’ish we are seriously talking about losing seconds off your lap for not having a racing suspension because the cars tension point will be hit much sooner than being able to tune that tension point perfectly and taking the car to its limits.
You literally just confirmed what I was saying. You can’t say cars always understeer without race suspension and then say cars need race suspension most of the time. You literally just confirmed what I suggested being that you run sport or street (assuming stock is garbage) with other tunable parts.
Brake bias is a non issue for many cars. For some it’s the missing ingredients between a car that understeers to a car that is acceptable. An examples are old cars with really long front hoods and negligible rear weight. More rear brake lessens the weight shift to the front and provides a car that’s more responsive and less rigid.
Roll bars impact turn-in as well. Too crazy of a setting and you’ll drift mid corner. Roll bars are commonly used as a way to get the quick twitch response out of cars. In other words, it lessens understeer. The faster you get the crazier the settings the top guys use. Try some of their tunes and you’ll see what I mean.
Fwd and AWD benefit massively from diff tuning. For RWD it’s not really a understeer tuning tool from what I can recall.
Aero increase grip even at the lowest settings which reduces understeer/increase responsiveness. It’s a decent bandaid for a quick tune fix. It’s also possible bumping up front downforce is the missing piece to iron out understeer in one spot of a track.
What is mid top 1%? Never heard of that. At any rate I don’t run leaderboard cars online but comfortably run top 200s in lobby in most cars. Some cars i tune are just so slow that there is no build that works. I like using those sometimes because it makes podiums harder to earn. Not really sure what % that may be.
Do I need to make a video to show what I’m talking about?
And when I say mi 1%'s, I’m talking about on the rivals and rc, I’m in the middle of the top 1% aka I’m in the middle of the pack of the best drivers in FM7
weight shifting by braking sadly does not exist in this game, if you attempt to do so all you will get is understeer, that’s why you never see the fastest dr
Look at your own comment dude
this was mine:
roll bars affect the car in the corner
this was you:
Roll bars impact turn-in as well. Too crazy of a setting and you’ll drift mid corner.
Are you arguing just to argue because it sure as hell seems like it. One outlier does not mean that the rule is broken or is untrue. In fact, you said that the GTO doesn’t need the racing suspension right? So I’m going to use that as my example.
As for the other guy I think you are seriously confused, I said on the turn in if your suspension is not tuned correctly you will both understeer into the corner and most likely again during the corner because the tension point on the suspension will be reached forcing the car to go straight again, this is the difference between being able to continuously turn and accelerate correctly to having to slow down and waiting for the car to turn in again. Sway bars hardly impact the turn in, that is what the suspension is for, sway bars (as the name suggests) affects how your car turns during the corner, it affects your understeer and oversteer, this setting is best left stiff and suspension adjustments should be the first place you start for tuning your car. Then you adjust the sway bars to determine how much drift you want in the corner.
Aero DOES mean more understeer, that’s why I add it in the first place. This is so easy to prove. Take a tune race it, then stick aero on it without touching ANYTHING. First thing that you will get as a reward is understeer.
Differential needs to be adjusted for maximum stability while accelerating and decelerating in any car, after that you leave it alone and don’t mess with it. The biggest factor in how your car handles is the suspension and most cars cannot get away with not using a race suspension. I’m not going to lose .500 or more seconds off my lap time because the car won’t turn in and stay turning. The tension point on a car is controlled by the suspension and the difference between the perfect tension point and not having that is massive.
While ultimately you are correct here; it really comes down to “driving style”. I can’t argue that using a “powerslide” or “brake dive” for corner entry isn’t scrubbing speed or overly hard on front tires typically; or that by doing so, one isn’t fighting “understeer” through a corner, but this can become very predictable and fairly easy to arrest. While I can’t say I haven’t “kissed” someones rear going through a corner this way; I have managed not to boot or wipe them out, at most they get a little unsettled, I back off and we resume the chase. This actually tends to happen more on corner exit than entry or mid-corner, meaning I maintained the faster overall corner.
Your style and tuning are far closer to the “ideal” racing set-up; but if reaching your plateau of “fast” means its a boring drive or that all my cars essentially “drive” the same, then I’m no longer eating at Baskin&Robbins but instead, really only get “twisted cones” from McDonalds. What was once a fun challenge is now relegated to busy work.
100% agree, I make my tunes fun and fast, but we are referring to the peaks here, even then, understeering is simply not fun, I’d rather take away handling to make the car more drifty than to deal with understeer
I’m in the top 200 on average in the world for Forza RC via rivals.
If so say so, maybe my memory is tainted with brake bias (it’s been months since I’ve tuned) but I know in FM6 you could do this and there’s not a lot of difference between the two games.
I beg to differ with sway bars. Stiff settings equal a dull and lifeless car. This is more preference really. I used to get in friendly arguments with a teammate about this. His setting were stiff. He also didn’t care for loose cars and was more grip oriented. I’m going to take a wild guess that you are more dependent like he was on grip to get a lap time. The cars drove fine, don’t get me wrong but I always felt like they undeesterred. As soon as I loosened the sway bars up I got faster with exact same suspension settings. The car turned in better on entry and didn’t push on exit. There was no drift to be found. I know others liked his settings though because they took the tunes #1.
I see what you mean by aero. You are using the understeer term loosely. Not that the car is actually understeering. The car simply is not oversteering like a wild animal as before. I got ya I got ya.
I know players would intentionally increase rear differential on FWD to assist in getting the car to turn. It was weird to drive but that car was pretty fast. Also with FWD the front tires can spin tires badly on exit which feels like understeer caused by the suspension but it’s really not. Tuning the diff helps get rid of the understeer feeling. Same is true for AWD. I was referring more to what feels like understeer in this instance.
Agreed that most cars should use race suspension. Not arguing that. More so arguing that for PI limits or for cars designed for certain types of tracks (mostly acceleration based), you can get away with a lesser suspension upgrade in an effort to make a lame duck car competitive online.
And I am in the top 100’s in almost every rival event I participate in, pretty big gap between us there. I generally shoot for position # 50-80, I didn’t compete in the RC but I did do the first event and my position was in the 40’s. The difference between me and the best is no joke, just like the difference between me and you is a large gap as well.
So uh, back peddling I see, it’s called UNDERSTEER. Dude, I’m seriously done with you after this comment. Go waste someone else’s time.
Your claim that stiff sway bars are just as good as loose ones shows why you’re slower as well. Wheel spin and sliding = a loss in time. Once you start competing against the best in the game it because aggravatingly obvious. You can watch any of the best racers in the game and see how their cars handle.
I will be posting my second video as soon as my clan mate sends me his time and hopefully his replay