How can you have understeer before turning? If you’re going straight, you’re going straight.
swaybars have an impact on how the car turns in, bad settings will lead to poor turn in response, particularly at low speeds
more aero doesn’t automatically mean more understeer, it means more grip as vehicle speed increases. You can adjust the sliders to balance the car as you like. More aero at rear = more understeer, more aero at front = less understeer
the differential settings can have a huge impact on overall handling and have a significant impact on stability
Unfortunately this game has a problem called “low homologation ceiling”. Lots of cars are either misplaced or just don’t fit the restrictions in a way they can be used to their full advantage. 2016 Camaro ZL1 in Sport Touring for example must be raced almost stock and homologation makes you lose power. So you have to compromise.
However, you can always add Race rollbars/swaybars and Race differential, which are extremely important and do much of the work. Wings usually lower PI in A-class and below while providing full benefit. And you can play with the tire setups to change the behavior of the car. Not often practical outside of RWD, but it helps.
The biggest help that comes from the Race suspension is the ability to change alignment and damper setup IMO. Those are what separates the men from the boys in tuning (and I’m in the second group, haha). Everyone knows how to fix oversteer/understeer by playing around with swaybars and springs, but dampers are more complicated, at least for me, and in games like Project CARS with four-way adjustable dampers on each end they’re even more complicated. Camber usually requires some testing in order to get it right and most people won’t go beyond using defaults.
In class racing though there’s really no reason not to use a full Race suspension.
camber doesn’t even matter that much, what matters is whether or not your car understeers and can turn in which is 100% tire pressure and suspension based
what you are talking about affects the car during the turn, to turn in and not have the car try to force itself straight the suspension must be fixed, if you do not have a racing suspension to fix that ratio you are pretty much guaranteed to understeer and lose more than 1 second per lap because of it. The only 2 classes that can objectively forgo a racing suspension is class E and D because they simply are not fast enough to even cause that much stress to the car so the understeer is less noticeable and manageable
I rarely race 2 races in a row with the same car, it’s more important to understand these things before you start racing
1: The basic line for the track, the line the cars built for speed take and the line cars built for handling take
2: The braking line for speed cars and handling cars for that track
3: the stress point of your car, some cars have low stress points so they are hard to control i.e. cars that require the cage to actually turn and drive effectively, while others (such as super cars and race cars) have high tension points and don’t lose grip as easily. This is important because you are racing, the car that you choose to use should always be tuned to have a high stress point, if you can’t turn you are a danger to yourself and those around you so keep that in mind
4: How much your car understeers and oversteers and how it reacts when under acceleration and deceleration
5: Whether or not your car requires throttle control to drive, some don’t some do. Different engines and different tunes will have different results. If you are having problems with this I would suggest making the rear tires as thick as possible and having at least one upgrade on the front tires.
Those are pretty much the basics, once you know those 5 things you can use just about whatever you want in theory
A good driver is observant. Personally, I would encourage you to forget the suggested lines. When I see my mate race, and he uses the suggested braking line (I think that one) and he aklways looks a little uncertain. Instead, you should cruise a few laps first, note each corner as it comes and look for references. So for example, try braking by the 200 sign. Too early? Bring it closer, try the next object or sign. I now have a clear picture of most of the tracks, what points of interest lie on the approach to each corner and a good understanding of the line required for the fastest exit or which leaves me in optimum position for the next corner if it’s a complex. So now, really I can jump in most cars and hook it up fairly quickly.
When I first played the game I remember that braking line being on (default) and I found it didn’t really follow the best line a lot of the time. Still, it depends on your driving style too I guess. For example, a lot of the time it was highlighted red and hitting the apex all too late for my liking and all of a sudden boom I’m cutting across the line on full throttle.
So yeah, I guess for me it’s important to be able to remember your surroundings. Remember the bus stops, the signage, the changing curbs and the distance markers. Having to rely on being able to actually see a corner is difficult and sometimes you need to be on the brakes before you can see a corner. A good example of that would be a race I did in Suzuka in the Sesto Elemento. It was on wet tyres (even though it didn’t actually rain) and it was really misty. I was basically driving blind at times and fully relying on landmarks to know where I was. I actually set a top 1% lap time on one of the laps…but I couldn’t pull it from the replay because the replays are nowhere near long enough. I did pull a lap from the replay. I put a link below. Best example of this is the final chicane. It’s a first gear job and you come out of 130R at pace so you have to be braking long before you can see the chicane. Here, I know that if I haven’t started braking before the Yokohama sign, I will crash.
I know I rambled a bit here but I hope this helps. It’s early and I’ve got a hangover though so my explaining skills are not the best right now.
Just drive what you like. No need to overthink this. If you try something and you’re not comfortable try something else. Return to it later after you’ve improved and see what you think. What I like to do when I want to focus purely on developing my skill at getting the most out of the cars is I drop a few performance classes and build a car that has as few adjustable upgrades as possible. No aero, non adjustable suspension pieces, etc. Then I go racing with it and try to make it work.
Just make sure any car you race has a basic tune on it from the well known tuners in Get Tunes.
Don’t use assists, use manual and do lots of different races working through career mode and online.
Pure hours of racing will help you learn the tracks and in time you will improve. Don’t expect to be a top racer in a couple of months just because someone has told you how to practice. People on here have been playing for years to be good.
Don’t overthink it because you will take all the fun out of it. And don’t just specialize in one car.
All you need to learn it braking point, Apex and throttle control. Just play all areas of the game, don’t kill the fun lapping the same track over and over.
I apologize guys, I forgot to mention something really important, which would have drastically changed the answers you guys gave me.
I’m already past the “beginner” level. In Multiplayer, as long as I don’t get completely demolished by idiots on the first corner, I make the podium 9 out of 10 times. I also am able to get top 1-2% on every track on the first 5 laps of trying (though I only know this with A and S class so far). I know top 1-2% is not correct because the leaderboards are very misleading. I’m probably a top 20-30% player if I had to guess.
I also don’t use any assists other than the brake line, and I do use the good tunes copied from high leaderboard scores.
So, with that said, reread the original post and you may be able to answer the question a little better with the information I just gave.
If you’re having that much of a problem, then yea sticking to a handful of cars is ok. Most players have a handful of favorites that they keep around because it provides a high level of enjoyment.
Nothing wrong with learning while having fun.
At the same time, choose random cars every 3 or 4 races so that you’re not a one trick pony. There is a such thing as being too good at one car and garbage in everything else. I’ve seen it happen a lot; especially when a dominate car in one game is not so good in the next.
If you are a car fan or get bored easily with the same car, switching it up will come naturally. Else, you’ll have to train yourself.
In addition, the race lines are identical more often then not no matter what car you’re driving or car class. The only difference is braking point, the amount of throttle control needed, and when to accelerate.
In my personal experience, play with a ton of different cars until you really find your driving style and what car works/feels right for you. Then Stick with what cars work for you. No one drives the same, so you just need to find what works for you! It can also be very track dependent, so keep that in mind
I just used the GTO which you said was fine without the race suspension and I have already proved my point. I did 2 laps of each, one with stock roll bars, one with stiffer roll bars, and one with the race suspension that I have only done a single lap in and already shaved .600 seconds off my time with 0 fine tuning. I’m going to put all of replays together into one video, point at specific points in the video and what the difference is between using a race suspension and tuning the over/understeer values with a stiffer sway bar does for your times.
You are missing the point. I never said run stock suspension and I never said run a car with only one of those upgrades. Your analysis was designed so that you could prove your point.
Unfortunately you failed miserably at countering what i was suggesting and it’s pretty funny.
It’s the combination of upgrades including street or sport suspension and PI limits that determine what can be done and what should be considered. Like if you are bringing the GTO to B or A class, definitely run race suspension since you’ll likely have enough PI left over.
Your analysis only showed what everyone who has ever tuned already knows…assuming no other upgrades, race suspension will be faster. I mean come on man. At least try to understand what was being said.
I used a sports suspension, the ferrari 355 had a sports suspension, I stomped BOTH of those times by 2 seconds. You can do this crap yourself. I used a class GTO and stomped the sports suspension into the ground.
Stop making excuses, later on today part 2 from my clan challenge will be uploaded as well. You can even see the picture that I posted for our limitations where everything was race with only the suspension and sway bars being sport, I only changed the suspension to race.
Made the video explaining why race suspension is important along with the GTO showing that with a racing suspension I cut off 2 seconds from my time by giving the GTO more grip than when not using a race suspension. Even if you think that your build is fast, it probably isn’t because if you aren’t capable of using the entirety of the track to turn and accelerate you will be losing out on a ton of time. Looks can be deceiving which will become glaringly apparent once you start racing against drivers that know what they are doing.
I already proved my point, I shared this video with my clan mates as well and we made another challenge, I will be making a part 2 using that information as well. We used a 680 PL 355 Ferrari with these restrictions:
5 laps for each, his tune (facr lsx) got me a 2:21.3, my tune with the racing suspension got me a 2:19.9, fastest was 2:19.57 but I slightly went off the track so I’m not going to count that one but it was 100% plausible.
I’m not going to waste more time on this if you don’t want to learn anything. You can do this on your own time and see for yourself.
I’ve read just enough of what you have to say to know that there’s nothing you can teach me. Your posts are wordy and confusing, and your attitude is arrogant and insufferable. My impression of FACR up to this thread has been that it’s a friendly bunch that generally wishes to polite and helpful, and now it’s the opposite. You’ve shown yourself to be incapable of friendly, polite conversation and instead take a “win a debate at all costs” approach to interacting with others.
I’ve been tweaking and tuning cars in sim racers for literal decades, and I’ve been tweaking and tuning suspensions on real cars for… literal decades. I’ve spent an enormous amount of time studying this subject.
My advice to you is to spend more time reading and less time banging away at the keyboard and making YouTube videos. …or don’t, do what you want.
My advice to you is to learn the English language better so you can stop getting confused by small words and basic terminology.
Just because you have real life experience does not mean that it translates into the physics engine of this arcade game that does not behave like a simulator. I’ve been playing racing games for over 2 decades, and both my brother and father know their stuff about cars and have worked on them.
All I hear is excuses and back peddling. If you don’t want to learn from some of the best in the game then stop wasting our time.
Talk is cheap Swerve, if you think that a sports suspension is better for some tunes then prove it. Beat my times with the racing suspension in the GTO and the 355 Ferrari with those racing restrictions that I linked.
My times were 1:51.5~ and 2:19.9 respectively after running just a few laps. You can run as many laps as you want and just whatever tune you want with the GTO as long as you use the sports suspension. I only did the first lap as well not multiple.
The race for the 355, was on road of america full circuit with multiple laps. Put up or shut up.
