I’m having several issues I can’t figure out. Might be related, therefore combined. I’m on Xbox One, using Fanatec CSW V2.5, V3 pedals and Universal Hub for Xbox One.
First issue: when I strat Forza seven it seems my wheel is not recognized by Forza 7 (can’t navigate through the menu’s and seems like buttons are stuck or repeating commands) Closing down Forza, wheel and Xbox and restarting fixes this issue. Don’t see the Fanatec CSW listed in one of the menu’s to select. (not sure if this is in the menu’s of Forza 7)
Second issue: (might be related to the first issue) Many times my cars stall at the start of a race or accelrate very slow. Sometimes I have the idea the handbrake is on. When I manage to have a good start I very often loose engine power. Power drops when in third or fourth gear. Just looks like the engine is dying on me.
Tried to fiddle with the amount of throttle applied and with the shifting moments. No satisfying result. I seem to remember this issue also was present in Forza 6, allthough I didn’t suffer from it then. (Other configuration then (Fanatec CSW V1.5, V2 pedals, Universal hub for Xbox)
I don’t have a Fanatec wheel, but I’ll try to help anyway.
Try the following startup procedure:
Turn on your Xbox by using the button on the console, NOT with the controller. Leave the controller turned off.
Once you are on the Xbox home screen, plug the wheel USB cable in the console USB port.
Let the wheel initialize, then start the game using the wheel buttons. Leave the controller turned off.
Once the game is loaded, if you need chat audio, you can now turn on your controller, it should be immediately detected and provide chat audio through the headphone jack (if your console chat settings are set accordingly). DO NOT EVER press ANY button on the controller though, if/when you need to navigate in the game and/or console menus, use exclusively the wheel buttons, never the controller buttons. If you don’t need chat audio, leave the controller turned off.
If you still have problems, try disabling “instant on” in the Xbox power settings, it may or may not help…
There is no menu to select a wheel or controller, the game will auto-assign whatever input device the game was started with.
On the HUD there is a red bar and a blue bar showing the in-game amounts of brake and throttle. Are these bars varying consistently with the positions of your brake and accelerator pedals?
Hi, thanks for the great reply. I will work on the first issue when I get home. Regarding the second issue; red and blue bars show the right positions compared to the use of throttle and brake. First thing I looked at
I have no problems in other racing games (F1 2016/17, Project Cars, AC) I will also look if there is a firmware update available for the pedals. Update the wheelbase a few weeks ago, so that one is up to date. Will let you know the outcome/ In the meanwhile; all other suggestions are more than welcome.
I am running traction control. Switched it off now. Performed all the actions as mentioned above by Sentenza and it’s looking good. Don’t know however which of the options solved the problem. Thanks guys. One final question for WinterR3; what settings do you use for your Fanatec setup?
I use the gamepad with the wheel all the time and never had any issues. I start the game with the wheel’s A button, and then turn on the gamepad after loading into the main menu. I refuse to wear out my wheel’s buttons when a gamepad is much easier to navigate the menus, and cheaper to replace
edit: unless I’m unaware of it, you’ll also need a gamepad to be able to vote for the next track in lobbies.
Problem has returned. Cars are responding correct the first laps and then loose power in 4 or fifth gear…Don’t build up the revs anymore. This happened with GT cars. Dropped from leading to last place in a couple of laps. Can reach 6th gear anymore and often fifth gear neither. Still no problems in other games because I started to think about a hall sensor issue with the V3 pedals.
If you drive too much in the revs red zone, can that be of influence? Not that I did, but just wondering. Damage settings are on full, no assists.
There is no reason to run simulation damage in this game as it’s too aggressive against the player. Shifting, over-revving and any contact has the ability to slow your car down.
Fuel and tires is more than adequate racing immersion here.
Nothing changes, whatever I try. Best way to describe it is like driving with the and brake on. Had something like that with Asseto Cora’s, but can’t remember how I solved that.
While driving the braking bar shows a very little red line (comes and goes without touching the brake. Pulling the brake pedal back doesn’t make a difference. Somehow, something is wrong and I’m under the impression it is hardware related. However, restarting gives me a few good laps without problems.
Problem solved. Appearently the brake pedal doesn’t completly return to neutral when released. I will fix this later. For now adding a little deadzone to the brake pedal solved the issue. Thinking about getting the me the brake performance kit. Seem to remember this issue has occurred by other V3 pedal sets. Thanks for all your suggestions.
I use the Thrustmaster TMX Pro 3 pedal setup and had the same problem if I started Forza 7 with the controller.
I can turn on the controller after I have started Forza with my wheel.
I set my Brake dead zones to 15/ 90 and Throttle to 5/95 to allow for the pedals to work right.
I have a bad habit of resting my left foot on the brake pedal.
I run “Manual” Trans. to allow for the auto clutch with Manual to keep my motor running on slow hairpins.
I just started experiencing all the same problems as the OP.(same set up just v3i pedals) Was the brake the sole cause of all the problems? How did you fix brake pedal?
I had the same issue with my Fanatec CSL Elite pedals with LC. It felt like the car was holding back a bit, like the brakes were dragging. I noticed in a replay my brake lights were on, on straights. The brake was slightly being applied. What I did was. I went into the Fantec Software on a PC and manually set my pedal deadzones. I placed my foot on the pedal to give a very light pressure and set that at the “minimum” Problem solved, no more brake drag. It seems the pedal is extremely sensitive at its minimum point. You just need to dial that out. The Fanatec config utility worked best for me with this.
