OH WOW HOW COULD WE HAVE MISSED IT! /sarcasm.
That is incorrect, Alot of even default setups it still occurs were it shouldn’t.
That’s just plane rude if you ask me, skill has nothing to do with holding the throttle flat and not being ably to move off the line, IT’S A BUG for crying out loud.
You couldn’t be more wrong with your post honestly…
Your response illustrates exactly why you are wrong and I am right. Please grow up. And to Toffo, again I’m correct you can’t see it because of your very limited ability. The truth is painful, kid.
My response illistrated you idiocy and stupidity, (and perhaps my poor attemt at humour)
As illustrated above minimizing the game resets your deadzones so there 1 bug. Then there is the FACT that the game isn’t allowing 100% engine power when the car is stationary which is the main cause of the bog/stalling issue IMO. As was found out in another thread the engine gets damaged in higher hp cars if you bang the rev limiter while moving, but while stationary there’s not enough power to cause damage. And I can figure this was done to prevent the AI cars getting damages engines on the starting grid, or does that just make you much sense for you to comprehend?
Also I did a test with the Lotus e23 today and realised that while you hold the thing flat on the rev limit it makes 0 power…
ok, i decided to do a test to show the difference in power output when stationary.
The car I used is the #97 Tekno auto VF Commodore, which has 462KW 650NM of torque and revs to about 7800rpm.
first test is a direct comparison of power output with no load on the engine
stationary:
rolling:
i have tried to get the engine rpm matched as closely as possible, both pics where taken as the rpm is still climbimg so the engine is only under is own loading, but you can already see a pretty big difference.
second test is the same although this time using 50% throttle, and again both pics taken as the rpm are still increasing.
stationary:
rolling:
again trying to keep the rpms as close as posible, this test at 50% throttle while stationary the car will not hit the rev limiter but while rolling it could. and again pretty big difference in power outpu.
test 3, capturing the power output as the clutch grabs and begins to put load on the engine.
stationary:
rolling:
now this is were it gets really interesting, as load is applied to the car when its stationary the car doesnt make eneough power to get the wheels spinning so the rpm drops quickly, causing the even less power and by the time the car has started rolling the rpms are so low that the car either bogs as its fallen into the low end of the power band or it will stall.
and here is a bonus pic of when the car actually stalled on launch:
notice 100% throttle, the clutch is engaging but zero power, this is because the clutch has started grabbing as the engine hit redline as the power is breifly cut to allow the rpm to drop the clutch is grabbing and the rpms are still dropping and byt the time the the engine kicks back in the rpms have dropped far enough that with the reduced power output when stationary, the engine just does not have the juice to get the car moving.
Edit: just to add some extra info, these test were done on the controller, and freshly booted game and console, without using any other apps or minimizing the game.
^^^ Well done. I’m sure HLR Toffo will be along soon…
We’re aware of the issue on our end.
It appears to be most prevalent in cars with lightened flywheels and tall first gears, like some of the race cars - WTCC cars, the super GT 500 Nismo, etc. Cars affected by this bug tend to launch better in automatic or manual (no clutch) than manual/w clutch.
You can tune this out by shortening first gear or final drive, or upping hp to get the wheels to spin from a dead stop, but you shouldn’t have to, so that’s on us to resolve.
Nice one, thanks for the update.
Max or another mod, you know what to do 
Interesting… I noticed in the last 2 pics the clutch was at 39% that value must change from car to car depending on hp and torque profile… I noticed one I was looking at the other day was 75%. From what I can tell it gives you that clutch slip for a millisecond or so right at start. I can understand why they have to give you that slip at start but why they limit power at start that doesn’t make sense… It would be nice to be able to adjust that clutch point though…
Edit just saw Jonk response lol
The 39% value of the clutch is well after the initial bite point, I used this value to show when there should be heavy load on the engine as opposed to minimal load at initial bite, and at this point there is visible load on the rear tyres in the friction values. When using normal manual the clutch slips between 70-80% on take off. When using manual clutch on the controller with a button operating the clutch it takes approx 1tenth of a second for the clutch to go from 0-100% or vise versa so it’s not instantaneous.
Thank you for taking the time to post
Hang on. I have not finished yet. Lol…only joking.
Thanks to everyone for their insight. With the exception of one individual, whom I won’t name and shame as he’s the master of doing it to himself.
Being that this is a thread about launch and I have been working on drag cars mostly as of late, i am curious about what the accepted way to “launch” in drag. I dont know what drop catch is, I don’t really tune to just hold wide open and launch. I use my e-brake as a trans break, I don’t use clutch, and I get the RPM I want, then release the brake at launch. I try to tune so my cars to be throttle sensitive, to where there’s a little bit of throttle control needed to keep from roasting the tires or flipping backwards, haha. Whether this is after the countdown or at the go in a street race. Just seems the most real way to do it. I may be over thinking this, but just was wondering.
I’ll try to explain some of the launches…
Full throttle : self explanatory
Drop catch: at launch countdown you keep the throttle at a fixed position (fixed rpm) let’s say 8k rpm, when the counter says go you hold that position till your rpms get to the catch point let’s say 3k rpm. The idea is to catch it as close to or in as much of the power and as you can without smoking the tires. Not really used as much these days espescially on the test track variant tracks. Hock and Sonoma with less traction drop catch is the way to go… Can be used with manual with clutch or just manual.
Clutch slip: you have to use manual with clutch on this one as well as change your controller settings to a layout that makes your clutch analog control (trigger control of clutch). The idea here is to hold your clutch at a fixed position at launch with full throttle applied. Basically your holding in the clutch to limit tire spin and keep the rpms in the powerband. Some would argue but I would liken this to a high stall torque converter. The point at which the clutch slip is released varies from car to car, but can be as high as 70-90mph on some cars. This method is frowned upon mostly, although in forza 4 you probably weren’t in the top 30 or so if you didn’t do it… Forza 5 very few people were doing it, so much traction in that the benefits were minimal.
Brake boost: this method you have to use a manual tranny. Basically the brake pressures are reduced n the tune to where they really don brake at all. You have to hold the brake at a fixed position to where the rpms stay up in the powerband. It’s kind of trial and error to find that point. I don’t believe this one is used very much.
Part throttle clutch slip: This one is tricky… Usually only used on very very slippery cars. In forza 4 used mostly in x class where u couldn’t use drag tires due to pi constraints. Same description as clutch slip with one added variant. The throttle is held at a fixed position (say 50%) while the clutch is slipped. Crazy stuff. Watch a x class replay in forza 4 and watch the telemetry from some of the top guys… All that clutch and gas control doesn’t seem humanly possible to me lol… I haven’t seen this style since forza 4 most likely due to the massive amount of traction at test track…
Hopefully didn’t take this thread to far off track, but you asked…
I would say you pretty much covered it. I guess my method would have to be drop catch. I dont usually full throttle it and alot of my cars grip great at the 2 actual tracks and usually have a little wheels to contend with on the test track. I kinda figure having to control the throttle to either stop blowing the tires off or launching the front end sky high is part of the challenge. I just had remembered reading somewhere about clutch slipping and the carrying on that was brought on once that was mentioned.
Thanks again for the info. I have learned not to hold my breath, but if only we had proper drag upgrades and what not, man that would be great!! Until then, happy driving and keep it between the ditches!
Super old, but I was playing apex 6 and this is happening to me, but it seems to only happen when I skip the race intro. Otherwise, it’s not an issue. Although, it’s pretty annoying that you have to sit through those useless still shots of the car just to be able to actually launch off the line. Smh. Typical.
