First off Im kind of new to Forza games,4 being my 1st and the only reason I bought the 360 and its the only game I have bought other than freebies.
I just got F5 about 2 weeks ago and just started doing the VIP Rivals Street Burner I think it is,the one for Camaros only on the 1 mile drag.I really didnt drag in F4 and only started in F5 on this rivals event.I think I have a pretty decent tune,last I checked I was ranked I think 34 on the LB’s.I am new to 1 mile drags also so Im trying to learn.
I believe whats hurting me most is launching off the line.I just cant get it down enough and consistantly,but also think my launch is giving me a slower time.I am using my own setup,I did try FatBurns setup just to see how close I was to having a good one and they are almost exact that I can tell.Both tunes were running the same times almost to the “T”.
Im running the 02 SS,only 4 gears,biggest tires in rear, and the 1st set of sub frame connectors(least thats what i call them cant remember what the game calls it).It launches fairly good with just a small amount of tire spin.
-I have tried launching while bouncing it on the red
-tried bouncing off red then just before launch let off the throttle till about 3500rpm’s then almost full throttle and off the clutch.
-tried doing launches from 3500-4500 rpms’s,tricky since there is no launch staging in the game…that will never make any sense to me.
So the question is,whats the best way to get a good and consistent time at launching?
To be honest the only drag racing games I have played before F5 was NFS-Motor City Online…if any one here remembers that game?In the weekly 1/4 mile drag racing LB’s I was usually in the top 10 each week and on the LB’s for tracks I was 2nd most times i really tried…Burn’NTaz beat me every week…i will never forget his name since I was never able to out do him…lol.
the launches in fm5 are erratic at best. try not to use the clutch to launch (it does not help) try full gas with out letting off it will spin a tad more but , it will launch harder. yeah Fat Burns is also a hard guy to catch on here lol i use his times on the rivals as a goal to beat i get close (with in 20-40 spots)
I used both of Reaper’s and FatBurns tunes and pretty much ran the same time…also forgot where I last left it as far as LBs…yet, the key to the launch really is when to start hitting the gas on full. It made a big difference between right at “3”, at “2”, and right before/after “2”…I eventually settled right after “2” within milliseconds. This gave me a strong launch and a good time. Try various settings…and, as Reaper mentions above, do not use the clutch at take off. Try using manual w/o clutch for gearing shifts. Some cars may need something different…does not all work the same. Good luck!
Just so I fully understand this right.
Just sit at idle until after 2 then hit the gas?
As for manual without clutch…do you mean in the assists settings or to use manual with clutch but dont actually use the clutch when shifting?I get worse times if I dont choose clutch in the assists.
The way i have been shifting is with clutch and not ever letting off the gas when I shift,just tapping the clutch and gear at the same time,it causes a small over rev in the red but has worked for me.Its kind of like what we called speed shifting at the 1/8 and 1/4 mile tracks when i used to go a lot with my IROC and TA and adjusting the clutch pedal to release high as opposed to near the floor.
Ok when i get some more time to play I will try all this advice.
Thx again everyone,I hope to make it faster,I just have issues with trying to better things I do…more like obsessions is what the wife tells me…
First, to make sure I do not confuse you…Reaper is correct above!
As far as the timing of when to hit the gas, yes, slightly after “2” shows up worked for me. On the clutch I was referring to the assists…works for some cars. For this one, after the launch you do use the clutch for 2-3-4 shifts. This will be different for other cars…for example, the #7 Mazda!
ok so there is no misunderstanding . on this particular car if you are running the option of manual with clutch you must use the clutch to shift to the next gear. what i was trying to say is do not try to launch using the clutch as the game kinda ignores the clutch on launch.
but on some other cars its actually faster to run just the regular manual option
I haven’t run drag much at all in FM5, but in FM4 I ran the whole board and there were three basic types of launch: Clutch slip, Drop/Catch, and Full Throttle. If reaper is saying what I think he is, they may well have coded Clutch Slip (riding the clutch off the line) out of the game in FM5.
Cars meant to be launched at full throttle are built/tuned that way specifically, and act exactly the way they sound. For the most part these are low power or AWD cars. Fat Burns had a good collection of these in FM4 and probably has a few in FM5. Your speed with these will always come down to your shifting.
Drop/Catch is required in order to effectively launch a high HP RWD car. Basically you need to hold the throttle at a specific RPM until the green, then drop the hammer to catch the engine just as it’s about to bog as the car lurches forward off the line. The idea is to minimise wheel spin by keeping the climbing engine torque just inside the grip limit of the car as it accelerates, but not to the extent that the car stalls completely. Drop/Catch is quite an art form, and has to be timed pretty much perfectly. Some tuners will identify the starting and catch RPM to make it a little easier for beginners. With some of the high torque monsters, you may need to lift slightly through the lower gears, but as a general rule in drag racing you should always flat shift when using a clutch and keep the pedal to the metal. The cleaner and quicker the shifts, the faster you will be. It’s also important to shift at exactly the right RPM to extract the max from the engine. Experimentation helps with that.
@ weary mick you nailed it ! but, i have yet to try to clutch slip i think it would be alot harder to do in fm5. drop catch is way to inefficient in fm5 , full gas seems the way to go . and you sir are spot on with the flat shifting ty i was having a duh moment trying to explain that lol
I tried the drop/catch method and its not bad but full on gas at just after 2 was the fastest so far for me.
Flat shifting,sorry not familiar with that term.Is that just staying on the gas,quick as possible clutch and gear shifts while not letting the front drop back down at shifts?
I may have my gearing a lil off after I ran it on the test track. My torque start dropping off around 60-6500ish and red line is about 73-7400.If I shift just as they start to drop off it just isnt cutting it,drops back to a flat 23:000.If I shift just at redline I get best but any ghost cars I run against I will get them off the line and until 3rd gear,once I hit 3rd its like they suddenly get a half a car length jump on me until I hit 4th then it levels back off and they dont pull anymore until finish.
I have no real idea how to adjust for that to keep the lead for the time.I dont know much about gearing in the tranny to be really efficient with it.Usaully I just adjust final gears for general racing unless I start running rivals or MP alot then i really start toying with them but at best for me its just trial and error until I get right feels right for a basic tune.
Sometimes this car at launch will instantly pull hard right…right into the wall but only if it catches really good with almost no tire spin.
I know in 1/4 0-60 times are important in RL so I assume they are in game but Im not sure if it matters as much on the mile.
my 0-60 time is something like 2.738
0-100 4.860
I can make it do a 2.4 or 2.5 but adds alot of weight.
Glad to hear the right after “2” works well for you. On the 3rd gear shift, I was having the same issue (actually against Burns ghost) and tried many versions for the gearing, yet, did not succeed. I need to do some homework and learn to adjust 3-4 plus gears for those situations, and, understand if changes are made to the individual gears “how do these contribute/change the rest”.
Wow cant believe I did not see this reply until now…must of been the beers…lol.
Thats exactly what I need to do.I do not have a good understanding of gears and how the affect the others.I just know that in my RL 04 Mach 1 it really likes the 4:10’s but on the track I hear it loves the 4:30’s.I have to be carefull downshifting to 2nd and hitting it hard.I was getting on the on ramp and hammered it and was about 45 degrees sideways before I knew,It will even scratch 3rd.
In that old game I mentioned in 1st post when drag racing I never used more than 2 gears for the quickest time,If I was in MP I might use 3 gears depending on the car,less gears changes was less room to make a mistake in the shifts.Would be really nice for T10 to add a staging,add a adjustable shift light and if it had staging a line lock,then I would be doing a lot more drags online.
if they are pulling you by a half a car it means one of your gears is too short. i would say 2nd same issue im having with the 2002 im right at a 23.000 . also alot of the other times on the lb have larger rear wheels my guess is it helps with roll out on the other end .
Im running the 345’s right now,but I figure your meaning the wheel diameter.I have been running the stock rim size and the first set of traction bars/sub frame connectors( I can not remember the proper names for it) and pulled off the 22.967…I think it is,whatever is posted on the LB’s anyway.
I tried a bit last night by jumping the rim size all the way up,dropped the sub frames to make it around 2700lbs but didnt seem to help much,may have made it slower but I will need to retry that cause I did have about 10 beers before I tried it…lol.
Does front wheel size have any effect of times in game?I know in RL small front wheels cause less friction on the track and make for better times.I tried to give the car a rake,dropping the front and highering the back but for some reason in game it did best by just setting max height on the shocks.
to be honest i havent event tried the large diameter rear wheels (they have no place on a drag car lol). max ride height is best option for front engine rwd cars.
Ok thx guys I figured out a good launch technique.
Once the game stops bouncing off the limiter let it idle down to 3000 and hold there then just after the 1 goes off slam the gas and shifting each time just at redline.It does spin and if I dont tap the steering left it will slam the wall.
I got a 22.950 with my tune and climbed 9 slots.But for the life of me I cant begin to imagine how they are pulling off those 22…7’s and 8’s.
When I run my tune and Fats they are almost dead with the times.
I took off the chassis upgrades,and made the rear rim 2" above stock,actually seemed to help.
You’re pretty much describing Drop/Catch. Often a small amount of controlled wheelspin is the fastest way off the line. If nothing else it shows you that you’re using up all your grip. As long as you are still maintaining a good amount of forward traction you are golden. With some cars there’s really no way of launching ‘clean’ anyway as they will either just bog down because you’ve had to stretch the lower gears so much, or will wheelspin no matter what you do because they have way too much power for their rubber… You should always try all the different approaches. Another thing to bear in mind is that some cars run 3 or 4 gear setups for the mile. I might give this one a go myself tonight.
Ran 22.950 with an S729 tune fat burns has shared but that was about all I could shake out of it. He has a 22. 906 with an S732 tune. If you’ve matched fb’s build then you should be able to dip under 950. Also tried reaper’s tune but first gear was a little too short to get it under 23.00. Looking at the top times on the board I very much doubt that riding the clutch is a thing of the past. Also, you do need some controlled spin to get a decent launch out of the Camaro.
I wouldn’t have thought it possible but T10 have made drag racing even more user-unfriendly in FM5. Virtually no time to find your revs before the jump, 23 seconds for a pass and more than twice that time spent waiting around in the tedious post-race screens. I can only imagine how frustrating the quarter mile must be. Way to go guys.
Nice time WearyMick! I’ll be giving this another shot today/tomorrow and see if I can improve with some of the ideas being bounced around on this thread.