I am a user of Latin America and would like to try the applications. fifty inch You have a code Free?
Check your PM
I want to try the app. fifty inch could you please give me a code Free?
It will be a separate app because car list and tuning differs a great deal from F7
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Check your PM 
Good day, please and I can try qt on Android
Good day, please and I can try qt on Android
All codes have been sent - thanks guys for checking QuickTune out!
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Any news on the QT app for Horizon 4 ??
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I’m shooting for a mid November release - stay tuned!
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Bought both at the weekend, hopefully I’ll get time this weekend to experiment with them a little. For me the winner will be the one that’s best at preserving some of the character of individual cars while taming their worst qualities.
I’ve just come back to Forza after a break of maybe 4 years but my recollection of FT from those days is that while it’s no substitute for a properly-tuned car, it’s great for opening up a whole range of cars that other people aren’t interested in tuning. And given that my days of being able to ask people to tune quirky things for me are long gone, that’s definitely what I need!
I’ve had more time with these tuners, and that has changed my opinion a bit, so I thought I would update here.
I find that I really like the output of FT7, particularly combined with the track specific focus, and a fine tuning adjuster that usually works great for adjusting things I want to change with far more finesse than I would have applied. (i.e. it tweaks all related settings to keep better balance when I would have focused more on one or two).
However, one word of warning. I noted that on my older Android tablet, which has been relegated to laying around handy for this purpose, the FT7 isn’t updating, and had some issues with UI layout. For instance, the “reset” button for the fine tuning sliders wasn’t visible off the bottom of the panel. There were no scroll bar clues, but I found if I drag/flick it up, the button is now visible, but you have to know to look for it. However, I had no such problem on my Pixel 2 phone (point being form factor + latest android update), which I now use almost exclusively. In short, this has been my go-to tuning calculator.
But… I found that some cars just don’t respond as well to the FT7 tunes. For my preference, most AWD need a lot of oversteer dialed in, sometimes beyond the max allowed by the tuning sliders. And some RWD cars as well. Examples include the FE Viper and FE Z06. Both of these cars were “good” with FT7 tunes, but still had issues I couldn’t get fixed. On these cars I’ve used the QT7 tunes with great effect. With only a little tweaking, the Z06 I had to work to place in short “Unbeatable” races became a whole different animal making placing MUCH easier. I’m still struggling with some issues on the FE Viper, but the QT tune is allot closer to getting it sorted than I was able to achieve with FT7.
In summary, I’m very glad I have both. I still turn to FT7 first as it provides cars that suit my driving style (or lack thereof) most of the time, and I’ve found the track specific tunes to be very nice as well. However, I am very happy that I have QT7, and for whatever reason, almost every time I’ve struggled with a tune, QT7 gave me a tune much closer to what I wanted. I’m not much inclined to race the FWD cars, so don’t yet have an opinion on those.
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I forgot to add, neither tuner works well with cars that can’t fully upgrade suspension, usually due to Homologation limits. In those cases, you may have adjustable sway bars, but without the race suspension. So most of the settings you are given are pointless, and the sway bars will be set to match the spring rates that you can’t adjust. In those cases I’ve found that you can learn a lot from the general balance shown in the calculator, then try to apply that ballance to the spring rates you don’t know.
So you have to fall back on what tuning skills you may have, or go to one of the various tuning flow charts to try to get where you want to go. But a lot of that is going to be just seat of the pants tuning using telemetry and observation…
Thanks BadDog1966 and Henny996. Do you all have a preferred setup for the sliders in FT7. I’ve been doing 90/90/90% toward understeer on overall/turn entry/turn exit balance and 120/120 toward firmer on ride and roll stiffness.
Have had a few weird outputs in FT7. Like with '16 Jeep Trailcat with off-road setup the ARB recommendation is 1.0 and spring settings are outside of the parameters of the vehicle.
Two things I’d like to know is why are ARB’s always softer recommendation and what is the threshold for when you do gear tuning. After a 100 hp increase or something more drastic?
Can’t wait for that Horizon 4 calculator Fifty.
In QT, there are no tuning sliders. In FT, I always start a new car/tune with the sliders balanced (the button at the bottom resets to 100). Then, only after driving enough to at least start to figure out the car and get fairly consistent (at least enough to start recognizing car characteristics vs my driving), only then start tweaking the sliders as I fee for areas I identify. In short, every car/tune will have different positions for the tuning sliders as called for by observations in test drive. Making those adjustments is how you deal with cars where the base suggested tune is “weird” or deficient in various ways when your driving tendencies are applied. As for your Trailcat, I haven’t seen an output like that, so can’t comment.
I’ve come to adjust ARBs upward in most FT tunes, but not all. Sometimes the default tune works spectacularly in that respect. QT produces tunes that are much tighter (springs dampers and ARB), but some cars when my driving style is applied on certain parts of tracks become really easy to get unrecoverable out of shape. Softening those often helps me, but not necessarily you. It’s part of figuring out how the tunes produced relate to your driving for a given car on a given circuit.
Watch the gear tuning tutorial video (link in app). Basically, you only need to change the gearing when you do significant motor changes. Anything that changes the curve (engine swap, turbos, etc), or extends the redline (cams). Otherwise, the advice is not to do the gear tuning in FT7. However, some cars just feel wrong with wide or short gear spacing, or spacing that doesn’t suit prominent features of a given circuit. Others may have widely spaced gearing that drops you out of the torque curve, and on tacks without long straights, you may never use the top 1 or 2 gears, so a close ratio can really make a difference. But you have to balance that against losses from excessive shifting.
So, at a minimum, where I can, I start with adjusting the final drive (differential) ratio to maximize attributes I’m focusing on. That usually means 0-100, 1/4 mile, and/or top speed depending. If I feel the individual gearing needs adjusting, I often do that seat of the pants. But I also sometimes see what affect a generated gear spacing from the apps suggests. Sometimes they address my desires with little effort, sometimes I keep poking till I get something I’ satisfied with. But in general, the base gearing is fine unless you radically change the motor’s torque curve.
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You realize you are tuning and with that said there is no point in the app right? I mean if you are having to drive to figure out your flaws and the cars flaws and then adjust from there, what is the point in using the app?
for a RWD car start with:
28f 28r
around 3.0 camber
Leave caster alone until you figure out if you actually need it (usually dont)
Adjust springs so rear is a little softer than front
adjust dampers so rebound is around 11 rear slightly softer
adjust bump so its around 3 or less and sometimes softer
max downforce front and rear (remove to suit track and remove rear to adjust balance to more oversteer)
Diff 60ish accel 15ish decel
ride height as low as possible unless you find you are bottoming out or looking for more top speed (rarely)
if all you are looking for is a base that is plenty good enough to get you started. I have run #1’s using tunes like that as long as the build is proper which is much more important than the tune.
Thank you much for that explanation. Learning so much here. Yes I need to hit Boosted’s channel and watch his tuning videos and yes some cars I feel just need a slight gear tune even if not heavily modified but usually I just leave them alone.
Yes have been meaning to try stiffening ARB’s a bit more. It seems both apps prefer to soften them and springs as well. I’m still clueless on differentials. Most of the FT7 ones are set to 65/30. I know they distribute power to the ground but need to learn more about them. Such drastic changes usually from the apps aka 100/10 going to 65/30. From what you said about adjusting final drive to the goal you are looking for, that helps me a bit.
Sometimes I feel like I spend more time tuning than driving. It can be fun but also tedious. Refuse to just download tunes though. I’ve also noticed I’m very conservative with the mods. Haven’t done any engine swaps or even big upgrades yet. Just do the necessary ones to unlock adjustments.
Is the free version still accessible? Since the people is incline to mostly AWD, I want to make tunes for purist players and different classes such as B,A and S1.
Yes, it sometimes comes down to me finishing the tuning on my own. But FT or QT establishes the base tune that I suspect is much more functional than starting with the global starting point numbers. Many times, I don’t want to make a big effort to get a car fun to drive. Stock tunes almost universally stink (not all, but most), and a quick pass through FT or QT (or whatever) generally produces something that is predictable and fun to drive. Run a few races, and often just put the car out to pasture moving on to something else. Or, if I like the car and want to keep at it, or return to it frequently, and the tune doesn’t feel “just right” after I’ve settled in and gotten familiar, then I start (for example) tweaking the sliders in FT.
And the results of those sliders are often not what I would have done on my own. And when I try it the tuner way vs my way, I almost always (but not quite) like the more balanced tuner approach. For instance, when the suspension spring rate seems good, but I think of stiffening the roll axis, (one end or both) I usually think sway bars adjustments. But FT will adjust springs and dampers when I move the roll axis slider in the stiffer direction, with relatively little numeric change in sway bars. And that’s just roll axis. When tuning over/understeer I often think of sway bars first just because it’s easy and predictable without unbalancing other aspects, which isn’t always true. Again, using FT sliders or the flow charts produces a better overall outcome.
Following that rough pattern I’ve learned a lot and gotten a lot better at tuning on my own, and so have to lean on the tuners less, or become more capable to move beyond. But even so, I find the tuner calculators provide a much quicker path to something I’m happy with than spending the time to do it all on my own.
This is true in much the same way as my choice to use the driving or braking line (depending on my mood). I don’t have time to spend hours tweaking a car, running lap after lap on the same ribbon, identifying breaking/throttle points, tweaking tuning, adjusting trigger points, rinse… repeat… And finally on to enjoying a few races. After which I may decide I need more tuning, rinse… repeat… I have an active life outside video games. When I find time to sit down and play FM7, it’s usually for 2-3 hours at most, maybe 3 or 4 days a week at most, and I don’t want to make a career out of it. So for me, I’m happy with the tuners…
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@BadDog: have you tried Baby Cows base tune approach? Would be interesting how it fares compared to FT or QT from your point of view.