New to Wheel, need help driving / breaking

Hi there,

I just got a wheel (G923). Already got the wheel setting tuned (there are some good videos). However, i have some driving issues that are different from controller. And i also never drove fast on a racing track in a real car. So maybe it is my settings, maybe i need to learn to drive.

Racing on many real world tracks works very well . However:

  • Breaking from high speed is a big issue, especially on Road America. With controller i do very well, on Wheel i have a very hard time to not go left or right into the barrier.
  • Especially on Maple Valley the car (RWD) permanently tries to kill me, can’t recover, at reasonable lower pace than i can go with controller.

Drive different? Wheel Setting? Do i need to tune my car different?

My FFB settings are very close to what HokiHoshi recommend for Belt/Gear wheels: Advanced Wheel Settings Guide | Forza Motorsport - YouTube

Enable abs and put traction control on Sport. You may also want to use stability control at first.
Make sure you lift your foot off the gas pedal when you brake, any input may upset the car.
Try to brake in a straight line, slowly lift it as you enter the corner (trail braking).
Use the brake balance in the car tuning section to increase or decrease the brake bias (try more rear brake, more front brake, see what it does)
As you brake, weight transfers to the front wheels unloading the back wheels. Are you sure your wheel is 100% straight when braking heavy?

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Try to learn heel and toe. Dont hurry droping gears and keep always a bit of throttle,in this game the short shifting feels a lot when you brake.

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Good advice, but I’ll say I disagree with your 2nd point. I would recommend you try left foot braking, ie. starting braking while lifting off the throttle. It’s a good habit to get into. You can fine tune the car’s f/r traction balance more smoothly.

I think the braking overall needs some work. My Logitech G27 setup to be overly sensitive, and had to really play around with the decel. deadzone sliders in Input Advanced menu. Raising lower deadzone helped me. I’m starting to use ABS even on cars that don’t have it IRL. A gamma adjustment slider would be nice

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so great of you to help them find you on a confession.

Can you show video of it? There was similar thread here (other person with g923). They ended up with “tuning issue” but idk every car i’ve tried here is fine with stocktune and brakes in straight line with abs or without no special setup needed. Car pulls left or right when braking


Too much throttle at cornerexit? Drive with telemetry open for a while. Not the best pedals, sometimes it feels like 50% throttle but telemetry shows you 70%. With default deadzones 5-95 u hit 100% even faster

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Well, thanks, some helpful advice here. And i sorted out some issues.

My break problem was tune related. I believe, tuning has a bigger effect on wheel (or especially wrong tuning). I was racing this track, this car, before on controller and did not notice something was wrong. Now, applying a complete tune from the tuning calc app, I’m 3 10th shy of my controller time using wheel. … nice so far.

Adapting driving style and experimenting with some FFB settings helped too. Especially those points helped with my Maple Valley problem.

Conclusion for now: Changing to wheel may be a struggle for the 1st couple of days, but it is absolutely wort it. Driving feels so much better and precise. Steering, throttle, break control.

Finished day with an online race (touring car) and it went well. It feels like the tire wear is easier to handle using a wheel. Driving in traffic with minimal correction, to not collide, is also better.

Still a lot of room for improvement … i will stay with wheel, for me it is the better game this way.

And imho, factory tunings in Forza, this was never a good choice, i was never happy with (even on controller). With wheel this is even more problematic for me. Learning: 1st tuning part for a new car, brakes with balance adjustment!

Once again, thanky to everyone who helped!

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The hokihoshi settings are great for a starting point. Some of it is likely technique, but you also might want to check brake bias. The BMW M3 was set with way too much rear bias and it felt like it was trying to kill me.

Braking is one of the toughest things to master. You only have limited grip in the front tires, and you are sharing your braking with your steering. If you are braking lightly and have any steering input, the weight shifts to the front and you will likely oversteer or spin. Once you get used to it, it is a great tool, but early on… it can catch you off guard. I would start with abs on and just slam on the brakes. If it is trying to kill you when you do that… it is likely brake bias.

Check out suellio almeida on YouTube. He does mostly iRacing stuff, but it is good info for FM… as well as real racing.

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DeftQuiver Thanks.

And yes. breaking seems to be a much bigger issue with wheel and setups with to less break bias on fron make it undrivable (or super slow). You break and you goleft and right. And ist is not only the BMW, it is on so many cars. The car i had issues with was totally tamed by applying a setup.

Cheers, Sevetamryn

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I had a G29 before, for comfort purpose I had switched the brake and clutch pedals and drive with auto clutch, most Sims are having cars that have sequential shifters and doesn’t make a big difference. So now you can use left foot comfortably for brake modulation. This makes trail braking and also controlling oversteer easier.

Adjust Break Bias forward, Rear anti roll and spring rebound settings to get rid of oversteer.

Glad you figured things out, and you are totally right about the factory tunings. I have found most of them to be pretty good, but there are a few that could use some major work.

I kind of see it as the car having some personality. Some cars, you need to figure out a way to keep them stable, and might require you to come into a corner a bit slower so that you can be on the throttle a bit through the corner… another car may require you to carry more speed into the corner so that you can use light trail breaking to coax some rotation out of the car. Once you have some experience, figuring out what you need to do in order to maximize the cars performance is part of why driving on a wheel is so fun.

Hit me up if you ever want to do some lapping.

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Miyagi Ghost on Xbox

Yeah if anyone wants to compare wheel Rivals times or do some racing I’m DeftQuiver on Xbox.

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I didn’t see any responses on driving pov. I’m relatively quick in racing games, Forza 1 through 8, ac 1 and 2. I can’t drive with wheel in 3rd person. When I went to wheel an pedals there was a big transition period where I had to relearn braking force and braking points.

Seems most people that transition to wheel are slower at first. Takes some practice as others have said. Brake in a straight line, etc. Use an fov calculator and get that set. Other then that it’s just practice. I was as fast day one on Forza with a wheel as controller but I’ve been using a wheel for 8 years or so. I don’t have any issues with cars pulling left or right and I’ve probably driven at least 200 of the cars already.

If you stick with it it’ll just start to click and it’s a million times more immersive with wheel and pedals. Just keep at it.

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Well first of all let’s talk about “breaking”- This word in English means destroying something, rendering it non-functional etc.

BRAKING is the process of using BRAKES to slow a vehicle down.

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That’s not what trail braking is actually.

  1. Make sure you’re braking in a straight line.

  2. Check your brake bias and make sure it’s not too far to the rear (close to 50/50 or even a bit of front bias is generally preferable).

  3. Then check the decel setting on your differential. (I’m writing this without looking at the game, so take the following with a grain of salt perhaps.) IIRC, lowering the decel setting on a rear differential will allow the rear wheels to rotate more independently without locking, reducing off-throttle oversteer. This is the feeling of the rear of the car “stepping out” and starting to break traction…especially noticeable in longer, medium speed corners where you’re balancing between throttle and coasting. With a properly-tuned diff, coming off the throttle in such a situation will help rotate the car a bit and you’re able to essentially steer the car just by using your right foot. By lowering the decel setting, you should begin to feel the difference and the back end should feel more stable under braking. Be careful of going too far though (try increments of about 5% at a time until it feels good), as if you lower it too far, the car won’t rotate and will then tend to understeer in the middle of corners when you’re off the throttle.

  4. One thing to also be mindful of is not just when to apply the brakes, but also how you apply them. If you’re accelerating hard, then immediately slamming on the brakes and turning in, you’re shifting the car’s weight around very harshly and the car can react in undesirable and unpredictable ways. Sometimes you’ll find, especially with cars that are a bit skittish, that if you come off the gas for just a second and let the car get settled…and THEN apply the brakes smoothly but firmly, the car will behave better and you’ll be able to better maintain control.

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Trippul_G - thanks, very well written, this should be part of a managed Forza Drivers FAQ :wink:

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