Ninja haha
So my saga of dissatisfaction continues with the new (Dec 2018 update and to now) updates to FFB. I’ve tried all the suggestions and all manner of combinations to try and get settings that would give me a FFB that gives me a feel of the road surface. Seems to me T10 accomplished a goal of adding bumps to the FFB to simulate and undulating road surface. Previously I’d call that "twitching"or “kick back” that wasn’t present in the pre Dec 2018 FFB. I now see that as bumps.
Again with my system (Fanatec P1 wheel, v2.5 base and XboxOne) I now have road bumps but other than that the FFB gives absolutely no “feel” for the actual road surface. Turns may have bumps but the actual feel for the tires gripping the road surface as felt through the wheel is totally missing. Apparently some can drive with a wheel with “no feel” which means no real FFB, but I can’t.
Call me crazy but Forza 6 FFB may not have bumps but I can tell what the tires are doing because I can feel the grip of tires changing depending on speed of the car, braking and steering angle. Feeling that I can drive the car on the edge of traction and be pretty fast. (I primarily drive the 2008 Viper in S class) Forza 7 to me has none of that road feel and don’t tell me it’s in my settings. I’ve tried all sorts of combinations.
So my message to Turn 10 is that adding bumps to the track is fine but losing the feel of the road is catastrophic. I’ll take road feel any day of the week over bumps. Can’t we have both?
Again, post your full in game and on wheel settings; and people here will help you. How many times do we all have to tell you the same thing?
If you have no feeling in your wheel, baring the occasional bump, then something is messed up with your settings somewhere; or your wheel itself is broken. No one can help you till you cooperate though, as myself and others keep telling you.
Lalyrn, Did you miss the part that I said I tried all the suggested settings that have been provided here and I appreciate that help. Did you read my post #17 where I listed the settings I used when making the video? As far as FFB is concerned there aren’t that many settings to deal with. You have settings that raise or lower the overall FFB. That’s not an issue. You have Mech trail, Pneu Trail, Road Feel, and overall Align Torque that should deal with road feel. However I set those parameters I don’t get any road feel in turns. I’d agree that maybe my wheel is broken BUT it was fine with Forza 7 right up to the Dec 2018 update and it’s fine with Forza 6 so I don’t think it’s my wheel that’s the problem. And I’m not asking for any more help with settings, because after hours and hours of trying there are no settings that are giving me the road feel of Forza 6. I’m just hoping that Turn 10 is paying attention.
And just for information, I’m not a novice with Forza since I’ve been playing it since Forza 1.
Yes I saw your #17 post about your settings and again with default settings. Those settings are a " one size fits all " configuration. There is a reason shoes are made in many sizes one size fits all may work but it is not going to give you the best results as something customized and properly adjusted.
It’s interesting you are having this problem with the default settings and I see no one else on here complaining about this. Maybe others have adjusted the in game settings and got their wheels to work better. I am not saying you dont have issues, but when this many people are trying to help you it would be nice if you work with us…
1 Like
Dan, Thanks again but I’ve given up with Forza 7 until they do another update and I’ll try again. If you look back at the “New FFB system Dec 4th… tell us what you think!!” thread with over 800 responses you will see that a lot of people complained about the “car feeling like it was on ice” going through the turns. That’s just another way of saying that there is “no feel” in the turns so I don’t think I’m the only one seeing this issue. I also saw a number of people saying that they turn FFB almost all the way off and that’s how they play the game. I’ll never understand that.
Hi all, I too was having probs with the fanatec clubsport p1, but I’ve downloaded the new 330 driver and now the wheel as come alive. The 330 doesn’t show up on downloads on fanatec site, you have to log in and download it from forum, the driver consist of 2 updates, a firmware for motors n software for wheel. Enjoy racing again 
I did the same and played around a little more with the game settings and I have to say I spent a couple hours really enjoying Forza 7. Thank you Fanatec for the 330 update. And I even had a couple podium finishes. Now what I really am looking forward to is the penalty system that’s being evaluated right now by a select group of drivers. Corner cutters will soon be going to the back of the pack. Not sure how the penalty system is going to work against crashers.
Hi, thought I would ask here since this pertained to the Cludsport 2.5. Is it normal for the wheel to spin right when signing it for the first time? I could have sworn the last firmware (beta 327) did not do this. Does the same for Horizon 4 but in that one it spins and stays pegged to the right until it finishes logging in. I search but could not find any reference to the login issues with the 2.5.
Oh and I notice the oscillation too, just thought it was the road unevenness but I am a newb at this…
If I start the Xbox with the wheel, as soon as I hit the A button to start Forza 7 my wheel spins very rapidly to the right and then rapidly to the left and then ends up about 30 degrees offset to the left from center. I’ve seen this behavior with all of the firmware updates. I don’t think it’s good for the wheel because of how fast the wheel spins and it has nothing to do with wheel calibration which is the slow spin to the right and then to the left lock to lock and finally back to center that happens when you first hit the power button.
So I’ve eliminated it by the following procedure:
- Start the Xbox with the Xbox controller.
- Start Forza with the Xbox controller.
- After Forza has started and you get the home screen then start the Wheel.
- The wheel does it’s normal slow lock to lock calibration.
- Hold the “Guide” button on the Xbox Controller until the “Turn of Console” and “Turn off Controller” options come up and turn off the Xbox “Controller”.
- Hit the “A” button on the wheel twice to log back on and then turn the Xbox Controller back on with it’s Guide button.
I want the Xbox controller on because I use an Xbox headset that only works through the Xbox controller but if you don’t need that you can probably just leave the Xbox controller off.
My V2.5 wheelbase does that also, even with the latest firmware- 328 is released and 330 is Beta. So far it has not seemed to damage the wheel but it is a bit annoying. I have found that if you start the game using a controller and then fire up the wheel after the game loads and the menu appears it does not happen.
Thanks, I think I’ll start the game with the controller as suggested, I just wanted to make sure I was not doing anything wrong. I can’t see how getting the wheel slammed in one direction is can be good for it. In horizon it’s worst, the wheel is held to the right with force until the game starts and that’s freaky. I am running the new Beta 330 with the new motor firmware and the high pitch whine from the motor was finally addressed! Thanks God, I was starting to here that high pitch noise everywhere I went…