Lotus Cortina B class tune

So here my B class ford lotus cortina.

ran a few laps around the nurburgring GP without any assists and got #52 out of the automatic drivers (still cant get the hang of manual).

Not fantastic but its only my second real tune since I started figuring things out.
I seem to have plenty of speed in it but Im losing out on a bit of traction so cant push too hard coming out of the corners. Any suggestions on how to get it to stick that little bit more? Ive only got sport tires on it since its a B class i figured racing slicks were a bit overkill for such a massive PI loss, figured I could get it that extra traction in the tune.
The tires run at about 33psi when hot, does anyone have any suggestions, lower or higher psi for sport tires?
It could also be my driving, my trigger deadzones are all sorts of screwed up and I dont have much room to control throttle and breaking despite installing the controller updates and setting the deadzones in the options, so just got used to it instead as best I could.

If theres any good manual drivers out there Id love to see what you can do with it and if its any decent to drive.

Also, a question,
When tuning an auto, other than gearing is there any differences youd consider for auto vs manual in the build and tune?

Car: Ford Lotus Cortina
Title: B Grip
Creator: Ruddy88

Would really appreciate someones taking it for a test drive and getting back to me, thanks in advance.

Clutch and gearbox upgrades will reduce shift times when running auto, but the benefits of running manual are so great that I would persevere with it until it is second nature. Then you can try adding the clutch to give you another step improvement in lap times :slight_smile:

I gave B Grip a run for you and enjoyed it very much. I drive manual with clutch badly but managed to get a 2:14.0 out of it. I thought the car gripped and handled well and it was a pleasure not to drive the usual 1.6 Rally engine. Why did you not use the full PI available? The setup loaded as B599.

Thanks very much ogr, I’m not real keen on the rally engine myself. The pi was 599 simply because i couldn’t see anything else to put on, I had light rims and increased the profile to 16’s, I’d put on the lightweight driveline, removed the chrome bumper, everything else put it over. I didn’t know the clutch and gearbox upgrades negatively impact shift times in an auto though so I might ditch the clutch in favour for something else, I dont really want to lose the trans though as I’ve fine tuned the final drive to where I like it.
Thanks for the input fellas, will jump back on it later today. And ogr, u shaved 4 seconds off my time. I’m gonna persevere until I can run a 2:16 auto and take best auto time haha.

Sorry, you misinterpreted my first response LOL. Reducing shift times is good when running with an auto gearbox. Clutch and gearbox upgrades will help but unfortunately they come at the cost of PI which could be used elsewhere.

Right. Got ya, I have noticed that the pi cost varies drastically with this. Sometimes clutch is only 3-4 pi sometimes it’s +10, the transmission also. I will try dropping them in favour for some engine upgrades, the cars definately missing some accel compared to the Lancer thats got the spot I want on the leader board. Any suggestions on what engine upgrades to look to first?

I usually look for upgrades first that also shed weight. Exhaust, Air Filter, Valves for example. Although the Centrifugal Supercharger is an exception. If this is an available upgrade, use it. The advantage of using manual with clutch is that you get the fastest gear changes at the time of your choosing without spending valuable PI on the clutch and gearbox :slight_smile:

Ahhh. Why does manual have to be so much faster and better :frowning:
I know I’m gonna have to do it but it’s such a pain haha, I really am bad at shifting at the right times and forever going into the wrong gear. Bugger it, have to learn some day. I’ll be back in a week, gonna go do 1000 laps of the nordschleiffe, surely I’ll have it down pat by then.

If you’re having trouble with manual with clutch try just manual. Even using just the manual option can improve your time and it’s just a button push. Try it out a bit and switch back to Auto if you have to and just keep going until you don’t have to switch back to auto anymore.

I usually set my tires to 28.0 psi for the drive tires and 28.0 or 28.5 for the rest. All of the driveline upgrades and the flywheel will help when driving automatic but they do come with a PI hit, kind of like adding the race tires. This PI loss is best avoided by switching to manual unfortunately.

If you’re losing traction coming out of the corners there are a few things you can try. It’s always best, and easiest, to focus on the end of the car that is causing the problem and the one thing that can most affect this. I that doesn’t work, then look further. In this case, you’re losing traction on corner exit when applying the throttle, so turn down your accel differential setting. If you don’t have it installed, do so. Always, always, always put the 2-Way differential on your car as it has no PI value and no weight change. Lower your acceleration diff setting by ten and see what happens. If you feel that is too much, do increments of 5.

I do put the 2way on it, current settings are by memory 15 accel and 8 decel but still having throttle issues, it’s on corner entry too at times but not as bad. It’s pretty good at the moment actually but yeah, with most of my tunes that’s the biggest issue I have with my driving so it’s one of the main things I focus on fixing. I’m thinking I might actually increase aero, I tend to lose a bit of traction in mid fast corners if I push too hard aswell, plenty of negative camber already so I think aero would be the way to go, that should let me take the sweeps faster without losing traction and also help keep the tires from losing Trac on corner exit under throttle. I think…

There are some suspension things you can do to help give the car more mechanical grip but I do not understand all of that too much beyond the basics.

Just be careful and practice using control of the trigger. Also keep in mind that the game has 100% throttle set at about 80% trigger pull even with the deadzones all the way out so once you’ve pulled the trigger about 4/5 of the way down you’re already at full throttle. Just practice controlling that finger and the trigger. I am still working on that more than most things as well.

Yeah I was reading up on that, seems silly not to have 100% sensitivity. Some people seem to have it better depending on what controller they use. I think for forza 6 I might just go buy a wheel n pedals and fit it to a bucket seat… If the missus allows it (she won’t). I really need to figure out the suspension aswell, do u mind if I add you up next time I’m on? Need someone to beat once I get the hang of manual haha

I’d love the Wheel and Pedals kit and a Bucket Seat to mount it to as well but I currently can’t afford it and my Mrs. would be kind of peeved.

Feel free to add me, I can always use a good Forza friend to race with and against and I look forward to seeing you on the track. I love helping people out, and I love learning even more.

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If you are still having trouble with grip on corner exit try reducing the rear ARB in small increments until you are happy. Go too far though and the car may not want to turn under throttle :slight_smile: What this is doing is reducing the amount of weight transfer to the front when the suspension compresses under load. More weight remains at the rear end thus increasing rear grip. Having said that I thought the car drove well on corner exit. But if your automatic car decides to shift gear on corner exit it could unsettle the car. Another reason to persevere with manual LOL.

Woo. Ran a 2:17:030 still on auto. Only half a second from tip auto time, could probably get there with better driving.

Used all the above advice, she’s a bit stiff but I like that, handles well imo.

Changed to the positive displacement sc, better accel but loses out on top end, on the nurburg it doesn’t matter so much though, tops out just at the end of the straight,
Ditched the clutch and trans too and got a bit more power then adjusted everything in the tune to get her sticking.
Went with full aero rear and minimum aero front which worked out well.
Give her a test, if in running 2:17 flat in auto I think ull do well as manual.
Also new setup only has 4 gears so less shifting which works well for me.

Same car, tune is called ‘B Grip pdsc’.