Laguna Seca (B Class)

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1

Hi all,
First of all, I’m new. So apologies if this is in the wrong place or anything!

I’ve been playing around with a bit of tuning this past year (the first time ever) and I’ve had some good results. However I’m having some issues getting a good B class tune for Laguna Seca. I don’t have DLC, so the top cars are out of the question. I have seen the Lancia Delta near the top of the leader boards and gave it a try, I really like it to drive its just I cant seem to get to the top times (top 600 is usually my aim, I’m not the best driver out there) Im currently able to do high 1:34’s but would like to drop into the 1:33’s if possible.

My current setup is as follows;

Conversion
Engine: 3.7L V6
Aspiration: Centrifugal Supercharger

Engine
Stock: Air Filter, Exhaust, Camshaft, Valves, Displacement, Pistons, Supercharger, Intercooler, Oil and Cooling, Flywheel
Street: Fuel System
Sport: Ignition

Platform and Handling
All Race except Sport Weight Reduction

Drivetrain
All Stock except Race Differential

Tyres and Rims
Stock Compound
Max front and rear tyre width
Compomotive M05 rims

Aero
Race front and rear

Tyres
29.5
29.5

Alignment
-3.2
-2.7
0
-0.2
5.5

ARB
29.62
25.16

Springs
536.4
741.3
5.4
5.4

Damping
5
6.1
3.3
4

Aero
95
415

Brake
50%
120%

Differential
32%
0%
25%
75%
65%

Any advice is greatly appreciated, as I say, Im new to all this!

Cheers

2

I haven’t tuned that particular car, but these are general tidbits I’ve picked up from some good tuners and from my own tinkering, that I think might help your car.

Seems like your engine swap and aspiration conversion ate up pretty much all your PI. For Laguna Seca, Race Weight Reduction and upgraded tire compound would really help a lot. You might wanna sacrifice some power with a different engine configuration in order to prioritize those. Also, you might be better off dropping the rollcage; it can improve handling in some cars, but it’s also a lot of extra weight.

Most cars do better with a little more negative camber. Also I’d recommend increasing the rear toe back up to 0; the negative toe really hurts rotation through the corner.

Seems very stiff. A grip build usually does better with smaller ARBs than this, in my experience.

Most cars are better with much higher rebound, in the 9 to 11 ballpark.

Are these maxed out? If not, for Laguna Seca they should be maxed out.

On the rear diff, I prefer higher accel and lower decel numbers. A good guideline is to raise accel until you start losing the back end accelerating out of corners, and lower the decel until you start losing the back end lifting off and turning in to corners.

3

Thank you for all this. Its quite in depth. I’ll have a look through and play with some of your suggestions. The ARB’s and Damping settings are pretty much stock I think. I never really know what a good starting point is for them so just tweaked them slightly for feel. The car felt good so I left them however I assume it can feel just as good with different numbers and a similar ratio?
The Aero isn’t maxed out (although very close). I used my A class Delta Aero and Spring setup because that car was quick. I’ll try maxing it though (no idea how I got those numbers before).

4

A good starting point for damping is high rebound low bump. I’d treat bump sort of like springs, in that rear should be stiffer to promote oversteer, or front should be stiffer to promote understeer. Rebound I understand less, but I’ve observed good tunes tend to be in the 9 to 11 range.

You’re right about the ARBs; I find an overtseer/understeer balance that suits me, and then I try moving both up and both down to see where in the range the car handles best. Moving them both softer often, but not always, gets the car to grip the road better.

The only reasons not to max out aero, for me, are if I’m tuning for high speed (not applicable to Laguna Seca), or as a last resort way to balance out a car that really really wants to oversteer or understeer.

5

Like hairpin was saying. I think the build is killing u more on that track than the tune. I’d try to at least get the race weight or better tires. I’d get rid of the intercooler. Oil and cooling and flywheel. Car is mostly a momentum track so u are trying to carry speed through the corners more than power through them. Intercooler and oil and cooling both add weight.

6

I’ll give it a go and see what I can come up with. As for the Intercooling and Oil and Cooling, theyre both stock. Thanks for the advice

7

Wrong motor. The 1.6L is the way to go. It’s also the most annoying upgrade in the game. There’s a tradeoff between being fast and driving a fun car.

8

+1

Try this if you’d like…

Conv = 1.6L
Aero F/R adj
Street tire compound, 225 F, 295 R, RGS rims or equivalent weight
Street tranny, race diff
P&H ALL Race

Stats = 5.6/5.1/8.8/10/5.7, 373hp/442lb-ft, 2347lbs (47%)

Tune: 28/28.5, n/a, -3.5/-3.0, 0.1/-0.1, 5.0, 29.62/23.86, 294.4/359.8, 5.7/5.7, 10/10.1, 1.3/2.0, 100/207, 48/130, 45/0, 65/25, 65

Modify tune to your liking and driving style. Good luck!

PRKid
.

9

Ah thanks for this, I’ll definitely give it a go! Cheers

10

If u drive a car with the 1.6 make sure u shift no later than 5500 rpms and shofting less eith this motor is better. Ot better to be in a higher gear and bog the motor down a little bit then to be in a gear to high.

11

This is interesting. I’ve always hated the 1.6, maybe this goes some of the way to explaining why. Thanks

12

It’s just not a fun motor and it sounds like crap. Intentionally bogging the motor out in 4th gear is a bit annoying too. You don’t realize you’re going fast until you see the lap time. So by not using the motor you’ll be slower more often than not. And then there’s drag tires…