As I’m banging through the cbh with that skittish mclaren it has become apparent that 100% throttle is about 85% compression of the trigger. I’d noticed it before, but now that feathering is crucial given the mclarens nature, its becoming apparent that the extra bit of space would be quite useful. Same arguments Titanfall used regarding stick sensitivity. I don’t play FPS, and was wondering if this is a microsoft thing, or forza? Either way, could we get that 15% back? with a game where cars are as sensitive as they are the ability to feather brake/throttle seems invaluable…and yes, I’ve got all my thresholds at 0-100.
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If you look at the telemetry, it appears to be Forza makes and already bad situation, worse. This was one of the first things I noticed when playing Forza 5. That’s why i checked the deadzones early on, and have been recommending people change them ever since.
When you look at the telemetry or even just the little indicators near the speedo, you can see the acceleration bar fills up very quickly, and even with the deadzones, leaves some slack. I’m thinking it may be down to the fact the xbox one was sped up to get out in time for the PS4 launch too. So they allowed for tolerances that would be wider than they’d normally like, just to get the stock out on shelves. Firms do it all the time, QC goes out the window to meet a deadline. I’m not saying that’s definitely what happened, but i’m saying it’s possible. Secondly, the game was made to accommodate wheels and controllers, and with Microsoft using a new API for a new controller standard, they had to allow wider deadzones to allow for peripherals, and with it being a new standard, they erred on the side of caution. Forza 4 for example is a completely different game with a wheel, compared to controller. Either one of these is likely, but the controllers having softer triggers, makes them feel sloppy which only adds to the problem. These controllers were made for twitch shooters, not racing games. It’s sad, and i much prefer my 360 controller to these horrible new ones which also make my thumbs sore.
One thing i have found that can help things feel less floppy is to wedge a bit of card down the side of each trigger to give it some resistance, it’s not perfect, but it’s better. I had totally weaned myself off TCS by Forza 4, and with 5 it’s back on for S class and above. Annoying, but maybe we can put or community heads together and come up with our own solution. Like i said, a bit of card helps, but maybe someone has a better fix?
I think part of this is how these controllers work. It was explained to me one, and most of the engineering stuff went over my head, but the jist is that a controller senor is not nearly as simple as pulling the trigger reporting back to the hardware 20 for a 20% pull. I think varying pulls on the triggers make varying voltages that are picked up by the controller’s electronics, but its kinda messy and imprecise. But don’t quote me on that. Its part of the reason why the xbox 360 switches were darn near buttons and like wide range variable sensors. Its possible its limitations of the hardware too carry over to the 1. The xbone is much, much improved over the 360, but clearly not perfect. And maybe that is good, would hate to see $100 controllers. Though would be nice if they had a controller calibration in the dashboard setting somewhere.
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I notice the joystick was the same way.
Change your deadzone settings.
- Go to My Profile
- Go to controller
- Press X for advanced settings
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I recently reset the deadzones to 0 and 98% on both triggers. I have to say this makes a massive difference. The throttle feels much less like an on/off switch.
Can you test out another controller? Maybe borrow a buddies? It could be your controller’s sensors are not in perfect working order.
I would be curious to hear the results of two different controllers
Just for reference, part of the next Xbox One updates (coming in April, I believe) includes new software for controllers. Too many complaints were received from the various games, and when the update rolls out you’ll be able to go to Settings, System and Update controller.
does anyone know if this controller update is in the beta released a couple days ago?
I believe that the controller itself will need to be plugged in via USB and updated. When I bought the Titanfall Headset I was required to download an update just for the controller so that the stereo headphones would work
thanks for the quick response but not quite what i meant, i know you have to hook the pad up to the xbox i just wondered if the new firmware is included in the beta of is it just the dash update.
although while typin this i realise would be a lot better on the beta forums lol
I updated mine when the headset adapter came out but at the moment the preview is telling me mine is up to date so I assume it has not been added yet
updated it today and i must say feels a lot smother but im guessing thats just me imagining it unless the headset update tweaked them a little
Placebo effect!
I would not attempt to get the Beta software unless you’re actually in the testing. It is far from perfect currently, and way, way off what will be released to the public.
Just a few clarifications from the questions above. Yes, my tolerances are set to 0-100, its a distance of about 4-5mm where forza is showing 100% throttle/brake and the controller still has more to give. This is on all of my controllers(3), and I was assuming that it was across the board. Easy to check is to pull up telemetry and check for yourself. Very interesting to hear that another controller update is in the works. Does anyone have access to the beta? Wondering what sort of things they are tweaking, but mostly hoping its not just headset patches…would be fantastic if this is addressed. Another 10-15% of range would be incredibly useful. A lot of times, it may be the difference between effective braking, and locking up.
Does anyone have an update to this? I am getting the same thing. Even with my dead zone set to 0-100 for the throttle and brake, it is unmanageable as full throttle/brake comes on about 2/3 of the way through the trigger swing. Also, is the only way to get the USB wire to buy the play and charge kit?
If you know where the limit is then just learn to squeeze that much or less. Yes it is harder but not impossible.
No it’s a standard micro usb to usb wire, The update through the console was for the headset it made no difference to the triggers.
Same here, update controller yesterday (newer one user here 
) but still problems. I need precision overall braking bcos i’ve skills to brake in 70 or 80% brake presure but in game 70% trigger is allready 100% so i block almost every turn. I’ve tried to brake less but im my mind i feel puting only foot point over pedal and that kill me 
I’m thinking soldering variable resistors in a 2nd hand controller and calibrate there bcos i only play F5.
Have you changed your deadzones already?