Tune It Yourself is a suspension calculator for Forza Motorsport 7! Based on a highly successful previous version, it has been updated to work with Forza Motorsport 7, and the results are genuinely staggering!!
• Easy to use
• Fine Tuning Options
• Tailor the Tune to Your Unique Driving Style
• Incredible Results
Wow, that looks really well thaught out, thank you for all the work put in! I will give it a try this weekend, and will keep you updated!
Just a quick question beforehand, im using the metrics version of the calculator. In the ~power to weight ratio~ it says HP` behind the empty field. I take it that has to be KW? Or does it actually have to be horsepower in that field?
So I put this to the rest vs the Forza tune app and my birthday Dyno. So far, I am extremely impressed.
What puts it over the edge for me is the fine tuning options, it really made a huge difference when dialing in the car to perfection for my style. Great job!
Hey - I just checked out your calculator and have a few questions:
Aero has absolutely no effect on suspension? I just dialed in a bunch of different aero numbers; 200, 500, 1000. Literally nothing changed in all of the suspension settings. Add aero and you need to stiffen things underneath the force of that aero (I would assume.)
What about drivetrain? If you can’t choose between RWD, FWD, and AWD then what are these numbers adjusting to?
Also I noticed if you put in a 50% weight balance then every single setting in the calculator is identical front to rear - how on earth is this supposed to be accurate?
Hi, and thanks for your message. I’ll try to answer your questions in order, so firstly I’ll cover the aero question.
The effect aero has on suspension is often misinterpreted, and I used to think that we should stiffem things up. The problem is, what happens when the car is being driven through the slower stages of the circuit. The suspension is too stiff, and the handling suffers. The answer lies in the ride-height. When using downforce in any amount, you should raise the ride-height a few clicks, so that the added ‘weight’ caused at speed, doesn’t cause the car to bottom out. More downforce, knock the height up a couple more clicks - but only high enough to JUST keep the suspension from reaching its maximum travel.
Good question about drivetrains. Although I was going to add this, the main thing that we focus on when tuning a car is balance at the three stages of a corner. Entry, mid, and exit. Your front wheel drive cars suffer from understeer, while rear wheel drive cars suffer from oversteer - quite a generalisation, I agree…
But if all we need to change is the balance throughout the different stages of the corner to achieve our goal, simply use the appropriate sliders to encourage the results you are after. The biggest problem you’ll find is the differential settings, and more than likely some issues with the ARBs. As the differentials aren’t calculated, and the ARB balance can independently be adjusted using the “ARBs ONLY”, there was no need for the drivetrain options. I hope that makes sense.
And finally your 50% balance question. This is absolutely correct, and expected. If a car’s centre of gravity is smack in the middle, then the resulting suspension options for front and rear should match in order to maintain a balanced car. This is just a starting point don’t forget, and as I say in the instructions, the base tune is absolutely not the finished article. I would recommend using the fine tuning pages and focus adjustments on everything other than spring balance. Instead focus on dampers and ARBs, as you don’t want the effect how FAR the suspension moves, just how QUICKLY it moves / responds.
I really hope this has helped clear up your questions, mate. And thanks for showing such interest. Enjoy the calc.
Great calculator, I really love the flow chart approach.
One observation… Forza has the rebound adjustment effect backwards. For real adjustments on a real car your calculator is correct, but per the in-game documentation reducing rebound at one end increases grip at the other end.
I believe Turn 10’s understanding of dampers is that reducing rebound up front will allow the car to take a set on the rear tires faster, meaning less oversteer on corner exit. The problem is that they’ve discounted the fact that reducing rebound actually allows the spring to push the tire harder onto the pavement, increasing grip.
One caveat… this statement assumes that the dampers aren’t so far out of adjustment that they completely restrict the spring or don’t provide enough damping to restrict it at all. If a damper is too far off of what the spring needs it’s really difficult to predict what any adjustment will do to the car’s handling.
Our final numbers are not that far off after I finish test driving a new setup/tune. I have often struggled with making the right choose with correcting over/under steer. I think your app will help visually see the overall effects of small adjustments.
Great work! I for one understand the time and effort put forth!!
Cheers for commenting, guys. And thanks for the compliments. I hope the calculator does help to see the effects taking place as you tune. I wanted it to help teach people how to tune. The idea being, the more you use it, the more you start to understand the “go-to” areas to fix your problems.
Cheers, and please continue to enjoy using the calculator.
Thank you for the work in this, tuning is a bad area for me. I tune alot of heavy American cars and trying to make them competitive in D class, which is very hard to do. I just dont want to drive the letter board cars, they really are to easy IMO. When tuning the car and you select the ARB, which ever one is your base, never changes, is that suppose to happen? For me, the car feels like its kiking the rear end out, but if i fine tune to kill over steer, it gets worse, If i add like 5% in over steer the car actually starts griping more. Im confused about this, it feels like it should do the opposite.
I’ve used it a fair bit and it does produce drivable tunes on limited information compared to the old Feuerdog calculator.
Some settings seem very one size fits all, caster is always 6…Camber will be 2.0 and 1.6. Also it seems to produce far too much oversteer as standard and my default is to set the bias at least 5% towards understeer which seems to get a car that will gently rotate on throttle (rwd) and still turn in.
Like all calculators you need to know a bit about what you are aiming at, there’s a few times it’s spat out nonsense but I’ve used the sliders to tune it into something that could work.
