If you use a wheel, share your tunes with us!

[pooshedpork]

Wanted to make a thread specific for wheel users to share their tunes.

I’ve found that most tunes on a pad are effective but require less-than-intuitive inputs. The smallest differences in suspension geometry, brake balance, etc. make a big impact on their ease of use.

I’ve spent a bunch of time dialing in tunes and getting builds that are consistently in tops splits to where I confident in sharing them with anyone else who doesn’t want to trial and error.

Here’s a lazy format for you to copy/paste:

Wheel Used/Torque/Range:
Make/Model:
Class:

TIRES:

• Front: 00.0
• Rear: 00.0

GEARING:

• FD: 00.0
• 1st: 00.0
• 2nd: 0.00
• 3rd: 0.00
• 4th: 0.00
• 5th: 0.00
• 6th: 0.00
• 7th: 0.00
• 8th: 0.00

ALIGNMENT:
Camber:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Toe:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Caster:

• 0.0

ARBs:

• Front: 00.00
• Rear: 00.00

SPRINGS:
Springs:

• Front 000.0
• Rear: 000.0

Ride Height:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

DAMPERS:

• Bump:
  – Front: 00.0
  – Rear: 00.0

• Rebound:
  – Front: 00.0
  – Rear: 00.0

SUSPENSION GEO:
Roll-Center

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Anti-Dive: 00.0
Anti-Squat: 00.0

AERO:

• Front: 000
• Rear: 000

BRAKES:
Balance: 00%
Pressure: 100%

DIFFERENTIAL:
Front

• Accel:
• Decel

Rear

• Accel:
• Decel:

Center:

• Accel:
• Decel:

STEERING WHEEL

• FFB Scale: 100%
• Steering Lock Range: 100%

[pooshedpork]

Kicking it off with the new BMW Proto-H. Besides having a mediocre default tune, the steering ratio’s extremely slow.

Shared to storefront under title “for wheel users” if you want to skip the work, but here’s the recipe since things like steering tuning are preferential if you don’t want a locked tune. This one’s at home on moderate speed tracks.

For anything I post, my default wheel specs are at 8Nm of peak torque using 900º of range. I’ll typically reduce steering lock to a point where directional input’s intuitive without being snappy. On that note, the worst thing is dealing with a sluggish, slow rack (eg sponsored rivals events forcing us in rented vintage F1 cars).

Wheel Used: CSL DD 8Nm (900º)
Make/Model: BMW Hybrid V8 Proto
Class: Proto-H Spec

TIRES:

• Front: 28.0
• Rear: 28.0

GEARING:

• FD: 6.10
• 1st: 1.62
• 2nd: 1.24
• 3rd: 1.00
• 4th: 0.84
• 5th: 0.71
• 6th: 0.62
• 7th: 0.55

ALIGNMENT:
Camber:

• Front: -1.7
• Rear: -1.6

Toe:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Caster:

• 6.2

ARBs:

• Front: 36.30
• Rear: 40.00

SPRINGS:
Springs:

• Front 475.6
• Rear: 532.8

Ride Height:

• Front: 4.2
• Rear: 4.1

DAMPERS:

• Bump:
  – Front: 2.5
  – Rear: 3.2
• Rebound:
  – Front: 10.3
  – Rear: 11.2

SUSPENSION GEO:
Roll-Center

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Anti-Dive: 29.6
Anti-Squat: -2.2

AERO:

• Front: 689
• Rear: 818

BRAKES:
Balance: 47%
Pressure: 100%

DIFFERENTIAL:

Rear

• Accel: 65%
• Decel: 16%

STEERING WHEEL

• FFB Scale: 96%
• Steering Lock Range: 65%

[COBRA_MUSTANG]

Yea I never use gamepad user tunes.
Usually have 16-20 on Decel, unless an Oval tune.

Springs I usually have pretty hard.

My bumps and rebounds are way different than yours.

Front rebound is 80% of bump
Rear rebound is 80% of bump
Front values are 10-20 % higher than rears

I have aero pretty low usually.

Someone on the forums said zero out dive and squat

[pooshedpork]

I’ve spent a year tuning and trying all of those things, including that baloney about zeroing out the suspension geo.

My older tunes tended to float bump in the 50-60% range of rebound, but it’s just not how this game works at all. Started experimenting with low bump and high rebound after noticing that any streamer with a reputation for fast builds in this game that was willing to show their process (eg raceboy77, esv griffin/griffith whatever it is) all do it.

Same with tire pressures. I used to tune in accordance to heat values on the telemetry then scratched my head as to why everyone’s running in the 27-29 range, so started trying for myself. Go figure, it’s just better.

There’s a baseline set of rules that work as guidelines for most builds (eg low bump and high rebound, stiff ARB abuse, softer springs, tire pressures, 6.10 gearing, etc) that will always work, but things like diffs, minute suspension tuning, brake bias, and especially suspension geo that all need to be tuned per car.

For instance, the only things I’d really change on that tune per track would be upper end gearing and rear aero for higher speed tracks. If I did switch it to a higher speed build, I’d also probably bias the ARBs to be more understeer heavy (or evened out) and reel in the brake bias and dive to compensation for the lesser aero, prob adjust the diff too, slightly lower accel and slightly higher decel.

And as far as the relation of stiffness for springs and dampers, I tend to start with a ratio that closely matches the car’s weight balance and notch it closer to neutral/even or even counter to the weight balance if it means the car will behave better.

But the “you’ve gotta zero out your suspension geo guys” thread was nuts. When I was on a gamepad I believed it. When I transitioned to a wheel I still “believed” it. But that’s not making use of it at all. It holds a bunch of builds back too.

It’s like a tertiary fine tuner to adjust rotation and balance after everything else is set.

End of the day, just want a tune that drives effortlessly and naturally on the wheel and I feel pretty confident in my process through trial and error.

[BlackCell567]

Why would we do this?
What’s in it for us?

Something I spent three days experimenting and tweaking on, I wouldn’t want someone to get all the hard work I put in and then just spin me out on the racetrack come race day. Real life drivers arnt sharing there setups w other drivers. Maybe if they was teammates. No offense, my setup is mine only. If someone wants to learn how to tune I don’t mind sharing what I’ve learned. I’ve even posted pics to help users.

Zero out the geo is nonsense!

Same way with anti dive and anti squat. You have to find what works for you. No two drivers are alike.

Adjusting anti dive and squat can be further complimented using the traction circle as you can see how much is diving or squatting. Fill up that traction circle.

Every car is different and you have to find what its sweet spot is for your driving style. It hard to describe what the geo actually does because it feels like it does so many things. Low geo to the left and your car rocks like a boat even with maxed out sway bars and stiff springs, shocks and rebound. Lower geo to the left and your coil spring compression telemetry is greatly increased( can bottom out). Wo changing anything else like ride height, that would affect that directly.

High geo to the right and your car is flat in the turns and not leaning as much. Your coil spring compression telemetry is much more even and lower, wo adjusting ride height(less worry about bottoming out suspension travel). Lower the front geo and your car gets loose. Lower the rear geo and your car gets tight. So it acts like sway bars, springs, shocks in a sense?

The cars I had setup with controller was good for controller but switching to wheel I had to adjust them all again. Then you learn something new about the game and want to try it on other cars, some are faster some aren’t. Adjusting seems endless, I always want a faster, dependable setup.
I keep a notepad close by and I write down everything I change and the results it had. I encourage others to do the same.

[pooshedpork]

@BlackCell567

Why would we do this?
What’s in it for us?

…to help others?

It’s a simcade without an official league and zero stat tracking. There’s nothing to lose. You make it sound so serious lmao

I’d rather help newer players out

[BlackCell567]

People feel the same way about graphics in the livery… spend days creating it and others use it. Atleast you get some kind of payout by sharing it in forza. Nothing gained here sharing the tune here. Let alone someone claiming my setup for there own just bc the typed in some numbers. No thx.

[pooshedpork]

Doesn’t bother me

[pooshedpork]

Need to post a revised tune for the Proto-H after using it for some time now. Small refinements, but most of them revolve around running full aero. It’s just easier to get consistently-top times despite the top-end sacrifices.

That aside, gonna keep trickling tunes in.

The newly-released E92 M3’s already a quasi-meta car when built with any semblance of PI efficiency. In stock form, it hates to rotate, particularly on decel/braking.

This build focuses on getting as much rotation as possible under braking without sacrificing stability and creating something nervous. I’d consider it relatively neutral, still safer than it is unstable.

The stock steering angle’s also good enough—could maybe be shortened by 5% give or take—so only steering changes were a 13% reduction in FFB in this tune.

Refined the ride height and spring stiffness until it could handle moderate curbing (eg Barcelona, Kyalami, Mugello). The minimum values for the front and rear are weird on this one.

Aero is numerically-even front/rear on this build, which I hardly ever do (if I’m running relatively even aero, the starting ratio typically matches the car’s weight balance). But after testing and some races, I think it works well here. Build would still work with slightly more or less aero on the rear based on average track layout speeds.

Getting into top splits in these short A-Class lobbies feels effortless, especially around handling-heavy tracks like Lime Rock.

Again, it’s in the shared tune library under ‘for wheel users’ if you want a shortcut to all the parts to make the build. The specifics of the tune are listed below if you want to duplicate it after all parts are loaded.

Wheel Used: CSL DD 8Nm (900º)
Make/Model: '08 BMW M3
Class: A700 (short/slicks)

TIRES:

• Front: 28.0
• Rear: 27.5

GEARING:

• FD: 6.10
• 1st: 2.01
• 2nd: 1.48
• 3rd: 1.16
• 4th: 0.95
• 5th: 0.80
• 6th: 0.69

ALIGNMENT:
Camber:

• Front: -1.9
• Rear: -1.2

Toe:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Caster:

• 6.5

ARBs:

• Front: 15.00
• Rear: 30.80

SPRINGS:
Springs:

• Front: 561.1
• Rear: 614.3

Ride Height:

• Front: 4.1
• Rear: 5.4

DAMPERS:

• Bump:
  – Front: 2.6
  – Rear: 2.8
• Rebound:
  – Front: 10.0
  – Rear: 10.3

SUSPENSION GEO:
Roll-Center

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Anti-Dive: -3.8
Anti-Squat: -1.7

AERO:

• Front: 150
• Rear: 150

BRAKES:
Balance: 44%
Pressure: 100%

DIFFERENTIAL:

Rear

• Accel: 66%
• Decel: 15%

STEERING WHEEL

• FFB Scale: 87%
• Steering Lock Range: 100%

[pooshedpork]

Haven’t had the chance to play much but just got back into the Velocity Series to knock out this FOMO.

I’m not sure if 1) the matchmaking is still extra-busted, 2) this Series is driving beginner traffic in with FOMO, or 3) this car just happening to be the right pick from the current series selections, but this thing is a lobby killer. Feels like the E92 M3/GT350 equivalent in A-Class.

Shared on storefront under title ‘for wheel users.’ Slightly stretched the final two gears on the shared tune to make it viable on the majority of tracks. Sport tires.

Stable while preserving rotation.

As always, if you’d rather use the open numbers, see below.

Parts:

• Race springs
• Race weight
• Max tire width F/R
• Wheel S-V: F1 (or alternate lightest wheel option)
• Race trans
• Race driveline
• Race diff
• All aero
• V10 swap + CSC

TIRES:

• Front: 29.0
• Rear: 29.0

GEARING:

• FD: 6.10
• 1st: 1.39
• 2nd: 1.15
• 3rd: 0.97
• 4th: 0.84
• 5th: 0.74
• 6th: 0.66
• 7th: 0.59

ALIGNMENT:
Camber:

• Front: -1.5
• Rear: -1.3

Toe:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Caster:

• 6.0

ARBs:

• Front: 32.00
• Rear: 36.00

SPRINGS:
Springs:

• Front: 586.7
• Rear: 627.1

Ride Height:

• Front: 3.2
• Rear: 5.2

DAMPERS:

• Bump:
  – Front: 3.1
  – Rear: 3.6
• Rebound:
  – Front: 9.5
  – Rear: 10.2

SUSPENSION GEO:
Roll-Center

• Front: 4.3
• Rear: 5.1

Anti-Dive: 24.9
Anti-Squat: -31.4

AERO:

• Front: 431 (max)
• Rear: 531 (max)

BRAKES:
Balance: 47%
Pressure: 100%

DIFFERENTIAL:

Rear

• Accel: 70%
• Decel: 18%

STEERING WHEEL

• FFB Scale: 97%
• Steering Lock Range: 80%

[pooshedpork]

Lobby killer

[Papa_Hortis]

I’ve finally bought a wheel so I will be trying these out once I get everything setup

[pooshedpork]

Congrats! Hope setup is a breeze.

Tunes aside, some quick tips:

1. use P1R Kaylos’s FFB guide

2. some cars feel fine to steer by default, but the majority will require you to tinker with steering lock range and increasing/decreasing FFB strength

3. brake pedal acclimation is the biggest hurdle to regaining pace when transitioning. I suggest practicing mashing the pedal until you’re able to nail ~75-80% consistently

4. normal steering feels better than simulation steering and does not sacrifice any output FFB info

[Papa_Hortis]

Do you left foot brake?

[pooshedpork]

Yes

Better get used to it off the get go, it’s basically a staple in sim racing if you want to be competitive

[pooshedpork]

Tuned the Pork 917/20 for the newest series and came away happy with this one. Curious to see where it stands as the Series meta matures.

Tune is on storefront under ‘For Wheel Users.’ Slicks build. Had to drop steering range to 42%.

Going to tweak some numbers later then share open. Camber numbers way lower than your typical builds, way too high in default settings.

[Lightsider74]

Interestingly I don’t left foot brake. Maybe I should learn to!?

[pooshedpork]

How the hell are you as fast as you are without left foot braking??? I’m amazed.

[pooshedpork]

Extremely happy with this final iteration of the tune.

The default tune was a spongy fiasco that wanted to plow. Found what I feel to be about as neutral of a balance as you could get without ruining stability. Possibly the most egregious default steering rack ratio; had to drop down to low 40% range.

Note that camber values are low. Caster was increased mainly for steering stability but the outside fronts are still borderline over-cambered when steering lock’s applied, so caster could be even lower. Was mainly dialed up for feel and telemetry.

Slick build, with the given 20 min race lengths, med/soft seems to be the best use of tires for the majority of tracks.

I can’t stress how much I love driving this one. It’s shredding up lobbies too.

Open tune numbers below. For those wanting plug and play, overwrote the existing listing on the storefront, same title as always, ‘for wheel users.’ Hope this makes your lives easier!

Porsche 917/20 ‘Pink Pig’

Parts:

• Race Brakes
• Race Tires
• Max Width F/R
• Wheels L-Q: Superismo GT (or any matching weight)

TIRES:

• Front: 27.0
• Rear: 27.5

GEARING:

• FD: 6.10
• 1st: 1.58
• 2nd: 1.12
• 3rd: 0.85
• 4th: 0.70
• 5th: 0.59

ALIGNMENT:
Camber:

• Front: -0.7
• Rear: -1.0

Toe:

• Front: 0.0
• Rear: 0.0

Caster:

• 6.8

ARBs:

• Front: 25.00
• Rear: 40.00

SPRINGS:
Springs:

• Front: 333.2
• Rear: 386.9

Ride Height:

• Front: 4.7 (min)
• Rear: 6.2 (min)

DAMPERS:

• Bump:
  – Front: 2.8
  – Rear: 3.5
• Rebound:
  – Front: 8.4
  – Rear: 9.6

SUSPENSION GEO:
Roll-Center

• Front: 8.3
• Rear: 9.8

Anti-Dive: 20.9
Anti-Squat: -0.4

AERO:

• Front: 152 (max)
• Rear: 234 (max)

BRAKES:
Balance: 46%
Pressure: 100%

DIFFERENTIAL:

Rear:

• Accel: 88%
• Decel: 9%

STEERING WHEEL

• FFB Scale: 85%
• Steering Lock Range: 42%

[Wilko_Jones]

@pooshedpork, you are doing the Lord’s work with these tunes. Thank You!