How do I keep from spinning my tires so much?

Most RWD cars don’t do well for me in FH3. When I start taking off my tires spin so much my car spins out. Is there a way to keep this from happening besides switching to AWD? I use automatic shifting because I’m not good with manual, so I hope that isn’t the only other option. :sweat_smile:

In this game you really need to do an AWD swap on everything if you want to be competitive. They messed up the PI system in this game so adding AWD is almost mandatory. Also to increase grip, tune your tire pressure and camber settings using the heat tab in trajectory (hold down on the D-pad & then press right 5X). Your objective is to get the tires as close to clear as you can get them. Hint: the tire pressure setting 20F/50R for normal cars and 50F/15R for hypercars, seems to be very common.

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Yeah, if you want to be competitive online, AWD is pretty much a must. Sad to say, but it is.

If you are just wanting to use RWD for the campaign races against the AI, you can beat them with rear wheel cars. It’s a bit tougher, but nowhere near impossible.

I’m no expert, nor do I claim to be by any means, but there are few things you can do besides converting to AWD.

– The easiest way to get more grip is to add tire compound. While this will give you grip, it also raises your PI a lot, so you can’t add as much power.

– Along with tire upgrades, or instead of tire upgrades, you can make the rear tires wider for more grip. This does help, but not as much as the compound change does. And the more power to weight you have, your are going to break the rears loose anyway.

– You’re most effective way to minimize wheel spin is in the tuning: The tire air pressure, gear ratios, spring stiffness/softness, ride height, damping rebound/bump stiffness/softness and diff accel all play a part in how the power gets put to the ground. There are tons of guides and how to’s all over these forums, and on the internet in general to help and try to explain what everything means. You are just going to have to jump in somewhere and see what works for you.

– The most important in my opinion, is Throttle Control. You can’t just floor it on launch (unless you tune the car do so), or out of a tight turn (again tune), you have to feel the car out. Feather the throttle and learn how the car responds.

I know this wasn’t really an answer, but it’s a loaded question that could possibly bring about all kinds of arguments over the subject so I went with a general statement that is pretty universal.

You can add me to your friend’s list on Xbox and we can work on something together if you want. :slight_smile:

GT: CFunk2001


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I really don’t like to convert to AWD, but if you want to win, especially on Unbeatable, you kinda have to.

If it’s rallying, the advantage of AWD is almost silly. I tried that gold mine rally course in a Lancia 037 rated at 900 (S1 class) against Unbeatable AI. I made both RWD and AWD tunes. With RWD I had zero traction and the AWD competitors (all the other cars in this class are AWD) were on my tail the whole time (I had the pole start bonus active). When I converted the Lancia to AWD, I beat them by several seconds and almost lapped the backmarkers. The car’s roadholding was simply magic. Which led me to believe the Delta S4 would never have existed if Lancia had made the 037 an AWD machine in the first place! :smiley:

I think in this game you can do that thing the new M5 will have, that is, you can add AWD but completely shut it down if you like, but RWD should never have been as useless as it currently is (FWD even more so).

However, it’s necessary to take something into account… The only reason RWD is the standard in racing is becauce AWD was outlawed. Really, it’s true. In the early nineties, during the heyday of the DTM, the field consisted of cars like M3, 190E and Opel Omega, all of which RWD cars. Audi then arrived with a behemoth called the Audi V8 which was much bigger and heavier than the other cars, but had a powerful engine and repeated the use of AWD that made Audi famous in the early 80s with the Sport quattro S1 in rallying. Needless to say, the V8 handily won the championship, which is notable because it’s a car with similar characteristics to the dominant ones in FH3.

The history of the Skyline GT-R in Australian touring car racing is well-known and another example of how broken AWD is, even IRL. The Skyline did not handle as good as the Fords and Holdens, and didn’t have their straight line speed, but in the bumpy hills of Bathurst it had so much grip that it could remain stable where others would lose themselves. Alas, the R32 in the game replicates this behavior quite accurately, as it handles so well, it almost feels like cheating!

Finally, take a look at drag racing. In production classes, the current top cars are the GT-R and the Huracán. Why? 2500+ bhp and AWD. Nothing comes close.

I wonder whether we should actually thank Turn10/PG for giving us the opportunity to level the field against the cars that come with AWD from the factory, though the bonus of an AWD conversion should’ve been much higher. The bonus they gave to tires, they should’ve given to AWD instead.

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Longer gears lower tire, spring and roll bar settings. Higher dampening settings to reduce wheel hop and jump bounce. The find the lower diff to a setting that feels balanced to you.