Fun 1968 Abarth 595 Esseesse Build

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For a fun little car to troll your drifting friends in, the 595 makes an excellent choice. If you have one of these laying around, here is a nice way to set one up to fling around Needle Climb.

NOTE This is in American settings…

Conversion :
1.6L I4 - Turbo Rally Engine Swap

Aero :
Forza Front Bumper
Forza Rear Wing
Abarth Rear Bumper Removal

Tires and Rims :
Race Tire Compound
Front Tire Width 205/50R12
Rear Tire Width 225/45R12
Rim Style - Specialized Rim - Any Rim that offers the most weight reduction, like Hole Shot and Weld Racing
Front Track Width on last upgrade
Rear Track Width on last upgrade

Drivetrain :
Race Clutch
Race Transmission
Race Driveline
Race Differential

Platform and Handling :
Race Brakes
Drift Springs and Dampers
Race Front Antiroll Bars
Race Rear Antiroll Bars
Race Chassis Reinforcement / Roll Cage
Race Weight Reduction

Engine :
Race Cams and Valves
Race Engine Block
Race Turbo
Remove Restrictors (last upgrade)

Tuning:

Tires :
Front - 27.0
Rear - 23.5

Gearing :
Final Drive - 3.00

Alignment :
Camber -
Front = -5.0
Rear = -1.5

Toe :
Front = 5.0 (positive)
Rear = 1.5 (positive)

Front Caster :
Angle = 7.0

Antiroll Bars :
Front - 24.05 (or just 24.0X)
Rear - 22.09 (or just 22.0X)

Springs :
Front - 500.4
Rear - 450.1

Right Height :
Front - 5.1
Rear - 5.1

Dampening :
Rebound Stiffness :
Front - 5.0
Rear - 4.0

Bump Stiffness :
Front - 3.0
Rear - 3.0

Aero :
Downforce :
Front - 220
Rear - 441

Differential :
Acceleration - 100%
Deceleration - 100%

This car is used with a controller under Normal steering. If you use something different, results may vary.

With this tune, I have personally achieved a 500K score on Needle Climb. It averages around 470-480K downhill under normal considerations, and even 450K with bloopers. Uphill will see almost the same type of scores.

When driving this car, just stick it in 5th gear and start drifting. Make sure to keep correcting as normal and with the use of the E-Brake and normal brakes, this car is hard to spin out, unless of course it is raining or super slick conditions.

For those who have come across my live streams and have watched me set up some cars, this is close to what I normally run. If I am not running a set up that is close to this, I am evening out my car using my tuning calculator which can be found under the Tuner’s Garage. The calculator is easy to use, friendly, and will help balance out your car for weight transfer and can be used for drifting, racing, and drag racing to balance out the vehicle, just change the settings according, and I am mostly referring to the Dampening because those seem like the settings most changed. The only other input is the Min/Max spring rate of the current vehicle you are tuning.

I hope this car brings you as much fun as it has for me and hopefully I will catch you out on the mountain for a fun day of '68 595 drifting fun!

1 Like
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Looking forward to trying it out :slight_smile:

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I tried it a little bit on the climb this morning now that the snow and ice went away, might make some more tweaks to it but I saw 2 RX7’s and a 240SX spin out trying to play with it…was a nice chuckle

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Managed a little go in it (concentrated on getting the Apollo yesterday …boneshaker is mine too)

Anyway it was a hoot… The only measurement that was difficult to convert was kg/mm -
The surprise in all of the tuning setup for me was the extreme toe … I normally start neutral and add a little depending on how the car drives

The car is practically impossible to drive in a straight line :slight_smile:

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It’s a drift car, who want’s to drive in a straight line? lol

Not all cars act the same aaway, and that is why I noted it was done in the American metric system so if you needed to change it you could. But yes, it is extremely fun to drive and it gets sideways easily. The toe will help reduce it’s chances of spinning out while keeping a nice angle.

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This is actually one of the most OP Cars on the game, it’s used as a leaderboard car because it allows you to hold the hand brake whilst driving which allows you to make the drift last longer :slight_smile: check my channel out on YouTube I’ve got a top 5 on the leaderboards with it

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I don’t do that with any of my tunes, nor do I drift like that. I don’t recommend it for anyone else either. But to each their own and I won’t tell anyone else how to drive or plat their game. I just make cars that drift the regular way.

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Nice one

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Tried it. Could use more grip and less diff lock, it’s basically a barbaric welded diff at the moment. Good for a budget beater IRL, but in Forza, I don’t know why you would. Also the amount of corrections this thing needed to keep it pointing where I wanted it to reminded me of FD cars (which is not a good thing, a drift must be smooth for your friends to be able to tandem with you)

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Maybe you could share a tune that behaves as you like it for us to try out?

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Ok. I left everything as you mentioned in the build, but made the fronts 185 and removed aero. There is really no need.

I have reset the finetuning of the car, and I will explain why.

The stiff springs and soft shocks make the car bounce and jump. This heavily impedes your ability to control the car. For example your front toe settings will make you have more lock, but when the car jumps from left to right the load on the wheels alternate, which means you are leaning heavily on the left or right wheel, which have 10 degrees of difference. That means just a bump in the road can make your car behave as if you’ve turned the wheels 10 degrees.

The differential went to 20 accel and 10 decel (my default setup, which I tweak later), because with power output like that it’s easy to light up the tires, and you don’t want any extra oversteer in a car so short and light. We are going to be steering this from the butt. I’ll explain later.

Rear tires went to 1 bar pressure (lowest possible) because we will be heating those up and get some extra pressure there. This will also give you more grip

The gearing went to 3 like yours,because those are good gears. I like that. Not excessive. Time for a first test drive

Edit 1:

Test drive over.
WAAAAY too oversteery. As soon as you let off the gas the front grips up and the rear shoots outwards. Needs modifications

More grip on the rear - rear camber goes to 0, Rear ARB goes to as low as possible. We don’t need it. Front suspension is raised to 15 cm to improve load of the rear tires. Diff goes to 10 accel and 0 decel

Test drive 2
Some roll occurs. This is good. Time to get those extra 5 degrees of toe a workout, we’re lifting the inner wheel Gittin JR style. That means front toe is +5 and front ARB goes twice the norm, which is 40. More test driving now.

Test drive over.
Much smoother, could be better but with weight that low what do you expect. We’re giving it more stability so we can actually throw a bigger angle now. Rear toe goes -1.
Rear seems to bounce quite a bit so we’re actually softeing the springs now to 30 (Exact same as stock front springs). Shocks too go to stock front spec.

1920×1080 2.32 MB

Somebody is getting a Vaughn Gittin Jr paintscheme!

We’re lifting the front wheels now. Still not enough grip in my liking, but this is good for a quick setup.
I’ll do minor changes some more and share the setup under the name “RBXGT2”, setup will be called “FD Esseesse”

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1920×1080 4.04 MB

I Regret NOTHING!

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Love the paint job…nice photo too

So what do you get on the Needle Climb?
Will try it out

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Didn’t even try it at drift zones. I just set it up to be comfortable enough in that deathtrap.

In any case - tell me what you think of the handling changes.

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hahahahahahhaah that paint is sick man

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Sorry…assumed as there were driftzone flags in the photo you had done a drift zone
Was just wondering about the change in driftzone performance after your changes…

FWIW I am not sure the original build was done for comfort but for fun…

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“Rear tires went to 1 bar pressure (lowest possible) because we will be heating those up and get some extra pressure there. This will also give you more grip”

Took it out for 1 run RL getting in the way :wink:

It was really lacking in grip
Your rear tyre pressures are too low IMHO
I ran it with telemetry and it was showing 18.9 psi … Really it needs to be >30 … I aim for 33/34 … (Sorry my head works in old money )
I would change this to 2.0 /2.1 bar at least

I will take it for a few more runs on the Needle to see it I can get the feeling for it…

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Well I don’t find it fun when the car is barely controllable, really. I mean I do but in a different way. I was having a run with friends in this troll build last night, tandeming their FD cars, and that required at least some resemblance of a steady car. If the thing would try to kick me off the mountain at a rate of 12 times per corner I wouldn’t have any fun. But yeah, I ran a 465-470k on downhill and something like 430k uphill in tandems, so more is clearly possible.

Also yeah, I just took a pic on a corner that was in a drift zone yesterday, I didn’t really try to go for it.

The pressures are highly individual, as is every setup, I know that. I tried my friend’s tunes and I can’t even get them to go sideways. He on the other hand says mine are too slippery, yet we tandem without a problem. And about the 2 bar - I would never do that, sorry. After heat up 1 bar turns to 1.4, 2 bar would turn to 2.8. I’m not running my rears that high even in my 250hp beater IRL. We’re aiming for 1.6-1.8 when heated. More powerful cars try to run 1.0 - 1.2 heated. a 700hp 500kg worth of abarth would be wasting it’s power (It is anyways) on a high pressure IMO.

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I hear what you are saying but you yourself complained about grip … Upping the tyre pressure to get a proper working temperature would give better grip

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I will experiment on that, maybe Forza is not actually considering more contact patch ultra low pressure grip increase (I’m not talking extra sloppiness of the sidewall flex, that thing seems to be considered and even visualised)