On my rsx, my front inside wheel loses traction under power mid to exit of the turn. I loosend the front springs and messed with the diferential but nothing changed… Any suggestions please?
change the build for wider front tires?
Would really need more details to give advice.
Lol don’t know how much more info you need. Fwd, all adjustable suspension/dif settings, pretty much the stock tune and the front inside tire loses grip coming out of a turn. A wider tire should def do the trick but it will just mask the problem rather than fix it. Thanks anyway, but I just need to know what causes the front inside wheel to lose traction. I thought it would be through spring work but after playing with a bunch of different settings its not that. Maybe if you could adjust each side differently like in iracing it would have worked but that would be more for oval use.
Yes, as suggested by ONR RoadRunner, higher accel differential would alleviate your problem.
The reason the inside wheel loses traction at corner exits are:
- As soon as the car starts accelerating out of a corner, the load shifts to the rear wheels.
- FWD are already front heavy therefore there is still a lot of weight on the front BUT loses some to the rear.
- The cornering action loads the outside wheels and UNLOADS the inside wheels.
- Therefore the front inside tire has reduced traction. With low accel differential, most of the engine power will go to this wheel because it has least resistance. Remaining engine power goes to the outside wheel that has more traction. Power is wasted, acceleration is muted and inside wheel wears out faster + heats up.
- By locking up the differential you are forcing both outside and inside wheels to turn at same rate, i.e. deliver same amount of torque at both wheels.
- While some power will be wasted on the inside wheel, all the power is available therefore acceleration improves as well as corner exit.
Springs+ARB+Dampers can alleviate the situation but one cannot escape load transfer during cornering.
Another option would be to lower the ride height (which reduces load transfer) but since most people use lowest ride height to begin with so that’s limited.
A good option is making the car lighter. This has the effect of reducing the load transfer therefore outside/inside load difference would be less.
Last option is to consider the tire compound. If the car has good grip all around, then you may have TOO MUCH grip. Higher tire grip would increase load transfer therefore makes the problem worse.
Those are my explanations for the inside tire losing grip and some additional recommendations.
Please allow me to pick your brain if i may. So the race differential locks both wheels so they travel at the same speed at 100%. Wouldn’t you want the wheels at different speeds to get around the corner faster? Isn’t this what the stock differential does? So of i set the settings to 0, the lsd would never lock and its like i have no differential at all? And what does the non adjustable one do? Sorry
I’m a little lost on this.
Race differential at 100% would force the out/inside wheels to turn at the same rate. Setting of 0% would have completely open differential. So your understanding is correct. Non-Adjustable one has fixed differential (you can see the amount in the setting screen).
You are correct in stating having the accel differential setting between 100% to 0%. In a RWD this is particularly true since the rear wheels are fixed, i.e. not steerable. In FWD, the driven wheels are steerable therefore the power can be directed to where the wheels are pointing (corner exit). Having perfect differential setting, say for example at 69%, has little benefit since the objective is to get as much power ONTO the tires. So from my experience anything less than 69% (using same example), results in loss of acceleration and anything above 69% has no noticeable additional benefit. Therefore giving it 100% is an easy way to remedy the problem . . . or you can spend a lot of time to determine the exact differential lock point but it will not necessarily give you a faster time.
This will fix the problem straight away… Front Deceleration to 100%
RR
Almost, its was the accel setting, got it down to about 50%, but its cured. Had no clue that it would be the differential. Thanks again RR your like a tuning genious!!
you can adjust each side… not so much seperately, but its done through the sway bars. GRD is right, you want 100 on the accel setting.
Things to try. Stiffen rear sway bars and suspension. This will limit the weight transfer upon acceleration, will also give you better turn in and less understeer.
raise front ride height, lower rear. Will also limit weight transfer to the rear on acceleration. the rest can likely be sorted through dampening.
Ooo thnx for the ton of info… I want to get the suspension balanced before i do anything to the tires, this is my first real tune im working on and i get what everything does pretty much but dampers, i just cant get a feel for it because maybe i just dont know what to look for… Well actuaully i made a killer 39.5 second indycar tune before today, this tuning is really starting to click for me and i think i can do much better with better gearing.
-0.1 toe at the front wil help this situation but It will make the outside loose grip eaisier and thus only do it if your ripping your hair out.