Just bough the logitech g920, and (as others have stated) the brake pedal is incredibly stiff, far too much so. With my setup I am unable to apply anywhere near 100% (approx 50-60% max) without pushing my chair backwards.
So I tried changing the deceleration outside deadzone config (0,40) and for the first race it worked fine.
However, in the next race, it’s like it had been reset back to 0,100 and it was impossible to break effectively. But when I went to the wheel setup it was still 0,40.
So I put in down to 0,20, and the braking was pretty much working for the next (3rd) race. However, on the next race (4th) the braking was totally unresponsive again. I restarted the xbox, and found when I put it back to 0,40 it was working as to my preference, but again in the subsequent game the deadzone config options seem not to not be taken in to account for the next game.
Ostensibly, it appears there may be a software bug? Can anyone else confirm similar behaviour? This doesn’t happen in FH2.
We’re looking into this (have been for a few days actually). We can’t get it to happen internally just yet but we’re investigating and we will update you guys as soon as we can.
That’s great news, wasn’t sure if it has been acknowledged, thanks!
These things do happen, especially so in software development. There are so many interacting parts and possible configurations that it’s perfectly normal to get unpredictable behaviour that passes testing. This is just something that happens within complex systems, and it’s why the economists can’t fix the economy, or meteorologists predict the weather with perfect accuracy.
I’m sure we’re in safe hands, the guys and gals at Turn 10 are smart, they’ll get there eventually.
Thank you for finally answering us about that.
Hope you find a solution for this.
I dished out 1200€ in total just to Play Forza 6 and these Kind of bugs leave me not very happy with that desition.
It requires a mechanical fix by logitech, the potentiometers are identical on all three pedals, 100% is the pedal fully pressed down but the hard rubber placed inside the spring of the brake pedal means the pedal goes no further than 20%-30% of the total distance that pedal can travel, the potentiometer has not been adjusted to account for this and thus the pedal is losing 70%-80% of its fidelity or resolution.
No game settings can bring that resolution back, its has to be a mechanical fix.
I swapped the brake and clutch pedals myself and its a lot better for me, my chair stays still when pressing the clutch to brake and lap times have improved.
When they set up the brake they did not account for the fact when a real car brakes the inertia assists you, the harder you brake the more inertia pushes you and your legs forward making the brake easier to press.
It is more than that. I have the same issue with my non-Logitech wheel. Hooked up to the PC, my brake pedal registers 100% on a hard press and it worked fine in Forza 5. In Forza 6, it barely gets to 50-60% most of the time. I can work around it by dropping the upper deadzone significantly but when in MP I suddenly have no brakes again.
I’m having this same problem, I wasn’t sure wether it was the game or the wheel but it has to be a glitch in the game, I set my dead zone and the brake pedal works fine, I can actually lock the brakes, but as soon as I start a new game it’s like it’s been reset and I can’t brake, it’s actually to the point where the car won’t stop completely, I hope this gets fixed otherwise I have brought the wheel for nothing.
The wheel settings keeps resetting when changing cars or just for no apparent reason sometimes, for those of us with a G920 means ‘yikes no brakes!!!’ because that outside deadzone goes back to 100, it means almost certainly you’ll have no brakes when playing online if you keep changing cars.
Closing the game completely and resuming career does get your settings back, this is a minor bug so it should be fixed soon.
The wheel settings will reset when you start a new race or even restart a race, but when you check the dead zone it’s how you set it up, you can notice the change straight away after one race. It does it in any game mode.
Has anyone played with changing the rubber on the brake pedal for a G25 or G27 one? Is that even possible? Can’t believe they thought this was an appropriate stiffness.
What is the DOR glitch? I have come across one where I can’t choose one of my cars in multiplayer when it’s the the correct class and there’s no other restrictions.
What’s happening is when I drift, I tend to use 270, but once I join an online room, it seems to “glitch” and resets the wheel back to a higher DOR like 720, maybe 900. When I back out and check the in-game settings, it’s still set at 270, so I join back in to the lobby and once the game starts it’s somehow magically back to the higher DOR.
