A new firmware is available for the TX,go to TMs TX FB page for details.
Sucks that my wheel is gone, though I wonder if TM will run into “issues” with MS over that new “auto-clutch” feature?
Updating mine when I get home from work. Really liking auto manual clutch! Plus curious about sensitivity settings.
I liked the auto-clutch on the CSR so this is a great addition, but it was an option you turned off and on in the settings on the wheel. I don’t know how this will work for the TX, unless there will be an in-game option in Forza 5. But it’s a great addition especially for when I’m using the F1 rim.
Also, I’m thought that Fanatec and MS fell out over the auto-clutch feature on the Fanatec wheels and why they didn’t get a license for XB1 - or that might just have been rumour.
Will update mine this weekend. hopefully the ‘optimised compatibility’ with the GTE rim will mean that the D-pad works properly for me.
Auto clutch is toggled on and off with the “mode” and the yellow buttons on the base pressed at the same time. Red light by the “mode” button will blink continuously when auto clutch is active.
Really huh? I’ll have to try that tonight after work. Thanks for info on auto clutch.
Actually, scrub the features, let’s hope that it addresses the more important reliability issues…
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Well, I’ve updated my TX. I guess when we get the August free Infiniti car pack, it will include update in FM5 for this update V47 for TX. So, a couple more weeks then!
Changes implemented in Firmware V47:
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Added compatibility with the TH8A SHIFTER.
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Added the WHEEL SENSITIVITY ADJUST feature which, on Xbox One™, enables players to adjust the wheel’s sensitivity level according to the selected rotation angle; 4 sensitivity levels are available.
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Added the AUTO-CLUTCH feature which, in some games for Xbox One™, enables players to select the “manual gear shift with clutch” option, even if they don’t have a clutch pedal.
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Added the CENTER VALUE ADJUST feature, which enables users to reconfigure the wheel’s preset center value.
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Optimized compatibility with the FERRARI 458 CHALLENGE WHEEL Add-On in games for Xbox One™ and PC.
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Optimized compatibility with the FERRARI F1 WHEEL Add-On wheel in games for Xbox One™ and PC.
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Optimized Xbox One™ protocol.
curious about the centre value adjust and wheel sensitivity. I do hope one of them means linearity curve adjustment at the wheels centre position. Also the auto clutch is good news. hopefully it means that the paddles are auto clutch and the TH8A shifter needs clutching. Without having to toggle on off depending on the car.
This is excellent news for sure! 
I read that Auto Clutch will work with the TH8A in sequential mode only, in H-pattern mode you will need to clutch manually. Shouldn’t have to toggle, I can use the clutch pedal on my Fanatec Clubsports (Basher adapter) with Auto Clutch enabled. Haven’t checked whether it is in analog or digital form yet, my guess is analog.
I used to use the TH8RS with the CSR-E in FM4 (another Basher adapter), great setup. Going back and forth between the paddles with Auto Clutch and H shifter with clutch pedal was effortless. No need to disable AutoClutch.
Going from the H-pattern to sequential will take some time because you have to switch the plate on top and rotate the shifter (tools needed). The TH8A seems to be the same thing with a modified connection.
I agree. Still have to play with the sensitivity settings on other DOR settings though.
I’m liking the options. Fine tuning the wheel to your own preference is a nice feature.
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Can someone elaborate on the auto clutch feature please?
At the moment I’m running manual clutch using the ‘A’ button as the clutch and then using the buttons behind the paddle shifts to change up and down…
Will this auto clutch mean I can just focus on shifting up and down and ignore the awkward configuration? Does the auto clutch engage quickly enough? I use the buttons instead of the paddle shifts as I find the paddle shifts too slow to engage the gear change…those 0.050’s of a second soon add up over the course of a lap!!
After updating firmware on your wheel to V47 you can use Auto Clutch feature.
To do so, hit A Button + Mode Button at the same time. The red light will now constantly flash while in auto mode. Hit same buttons to deactivate it.
Clutch will be in digital mode (no different than using button for clutch) & not progressive, like if you had pedals with clutch (like real life). YOU MUST USE PADDLES TO SHIFT UP & DOWN! Otherwise, it won’t work!
Lastly, you can’t navigate with shift paddles in menus with Auto Clutch on. You have to press those 2 buttons to deactivate Auto Clutch. Then navigate menus (no big deal, takes a second to do. Then reactivate before next race).
Only on Xbox One, not PC. Just read there PDF fact on Auto Clutch.
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Well described. Thanks for the update.
So it’s the “A” button that activates it with the “mode” button at the same time. Makes sense, the yellow button is assigned as “A” when connected with the Xbox. I didn’t think to try that button combination also, I stopped when I found “yellow” to work.
Navigating menus can get a little bothersome, activating and deactivating auto clutch also reads as “A” being pressed each time (selects whatever you have highlighted).
I also noticed that now when cycling through DOR (degree of rotation) the red light blinks in green then goes back to red. I wonder if that has anything to do with the sensitivity adjustment they added or if they did it to be more noticeable. I think its harder to see which DOR is selected, might just have to adjust.
Gangrel, do you have a link to the PDF? I can’t seem to find it.
Nevermind I found it.
Here it is: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00153.pdf
I found that using the “mode”+paddles is to adjust sensitivity.
RACING WHEEL SENSITIVITY ADJUSTMENT
In games for Xbox One™, a feature enabling players to manually adjust the racing wheel’s sensitivity according to the selected rotation angle.
Simultaneously press (and release):
UP paddle shifter + MODE button to reduce sensitivity by one level
DOWN paddle shifter + MODE button to increase sensitivity by one level
4 possible settings
Selected RACING WHEEL
SENSITIVITY LEVEL
LED status
Sensitivity level 1 (default)
= NORMAL Flashes once
Sensitivity level 2 = LOW Flashes twice
Sensitivity level 3 = VERY LOW Flashes 3 times
Sensitivity level 4 = MINIMUM Flashes 4 times
Sensitivity level 1 = NORMAL Flashes once
Examples of possible settings
according to the selected rotation angle
RACING WHEEL ROTATION ANGLE (**)
RACING WHEEL SENSITIVITY
900° :
Sensitivity level 1 or Sensitivity level 2
540° :
Sensitivity level 2 or Sensitivity level 3
360° :
Sensitivity level 3
240° :
Sensitivity level 3 or Sensitivity level 4
Manually adjusting the sensitivity level slightly alters the intensity of the racing wheel’s force feedback and centering settings (the lower the sensitivity, the lower the intensity of the force feedback and centering features).
It seems that both DOR and sensitivity adjustments use green flashes instead of red.
here is the PDF for the sensitivity: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00152.pdf
I was also hoping that this update would cure the vibration dropping out, but I don’t think it did.
Wheel sensitivity ‘mode plus paddle up or down’ seems to be a center linearity setting. 1 flash normal up to 4 flashes is a much flatter linear setting at the wheel centre. At 900 degrees I think 1 flash(default) or 2 flashes works best.
Took the plunge and updated mine today.
My Fanatec pedals and CPX adapter work perfectly, and the clutch pedal also works. Auto-clutch works great with the F1 rim - a fantastic addition for open wheel racing! I love that it can be quickly toggled off and on so that you can use the paddle shifters in menus (this was and still is an issue with the Fanatec’s so it’s not easy to change lobby settings in FM4 with it).
I’ve not tried any of the advanced sensitivity settings yet. One thing to note is that this didn’t cure my D-Pad issue on the GTE rim, so I now believe it is actually faulty - Thrustmaster Support here I come - oh shucks!!!
Very happy with the update, and let’s pray it resolves the reliability issues.
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My D-pad works fine on my GTE rim so I would say yours is defective it seems. I use it in the Xbox One dashboard and in FM5 without any issue.
^^ yep, tested it a bit more earlier and it doesn’t work properly on PC either.
Think I’ll contact Amazon rather than Thrustmaster - they’ve a better customer service.
Really liking the new Center Adjustment options. The default setting was to sensitive in my opinion and made for some counter steer mishaps.
Here are my preferences for the ‘Paddle and mode’ button presses
900 Degrees - 2 flashes
540 Degrees - 3 flashes
360 Degrees - 3 flashes
270 Degrees - 3 flashes
4 flashes is way too linear on any setting I think
Ooops I missed this thread when I started the other one about the update in the general section. I didn’t realise we had a dedicated hardware/peripherals area, oh well lesson learned!
Anyway the update is working perfectlyt for me I have to say it’s a huge improvement in feedback effects and feel - a lot of the seemingly random effects through the wheel especially around the centre point seem to have been resolved. Unquestionably faster and a lot more fun & realism too. I’d now safely say this is the best wheel I’ve used and it seems we are finally seeing the benefit of the new technology used to drive the effects.