i dont know what they changed … FH3 off roading feels so much better … in FH4 there are FFB picks everywhere … its awful … even the alignement torque is too strong for off roading
its to the point its easier to drive group B car in dirt rally than FH4
What wheel?
What platform (xbox or PC)?
What are your full wheel settings?
You gave absolutely zero information at all, so no one can help you resolve this problem; or even investigate it further.
I own a Thrustmaster T300RS, and a Logitech G920; so I can help on both Xbox on PC related wheel settings.
Also, Horizon 3 was an absolute disaster on the wheel. It was a lifeless mess; and doesnt even allow multiple USB devices to be used at the same time on the PC version. It is the only Forza game to ever make me push my wheel aside and use a control pad to play it with. FH3 is really not a good comparison to how the FFB is now in FH4. A racing games force feedback has to be monumentally bad to make me push the wheel aside. But because of how bad the FFB was in FH3, a lot of people have run into issues with the vastly improved FFB in FH4; and created confusion on how to set up the new game for their wheels.
i ve a tmx on Xbox … and its not the setup … its perfect on road … i dont want to change it … it took hours to find … and the wheel is suppose to be lifeless off road
so what do u suggest ?
no vibration
SL 50
FFB S 40
springs 85
dampers 10
understeer 50
minimum FFB 50
angle 510
First things first, lowering the wheel rotation can make the FFB feel stronger. Obviously wheel rotation is all personal preference, but the lower you run it, the more you generally want to reduce the FFB effects.
Other things to keep in mind when setting up your FFB wheel for use in a Forza title.
“Force Feedback Scale” in FH4, is not an overall maximum volume for all the FFB effects. But it does impact the alignment and dynamic forces. And does not scale the spring and damper.
“Centre Spring” is a dynamic force, which basically means, it isnt always turned on. It is required in order to help with the self aligning of the wheels while in motion however.
“Wheel Damper” adds artificial weight to the wheel, as well as damping the effects of the other forces. On the Logitech G920 wheel, as well as the Thrustmaster TMX wheel; I advise this to be set to 0.
“Force Feedback Understeer” is the setting that allows the mechanical trail to show through. What I mean by this, is this setting is predominantly, what allows your wheel to self rotate when the rear of the car slides out. The higher this setting, the faster your wheel will want to rotate when you slide the rear out. Useful if you like drifting, and/or rally driving. I personally have this setting maxed, on both my G920 and my T300RS. But I like a very responsive wheel in this regard.
“Force Feedback Minimum” is the pneumatic trail effects. It allows you to feel tire grip drop off, the higher this setting is, the more noticeable and sharp that drop off is. It also adds a lot of wheel weight while driving normally. This setting will make driving on the tarmac feel absolutely brilliant, as it conveys a real feeling that the tires are gripping as the forces load up. Having this too high though, can cause major problems while driving off road. You want this setting fairly low. Enough so you can feel it, but not high enough to detract from driving on other surfaces.
The settings I use on the G920, I run at 900° on the Xbox one console. My personal preference in that regard, so my wheel settings reflect that.
Wheel settings video - https://youtu.be/xfO3lpqPyL8
G920 Fortune Island wheel/FFB testing (on road/off road/drifting + jumps) - https://youtu.be/2PPnowtdGng
If you stick with your current wheel rotation, I suggest putting your settings like this, and working from there.
FFB S 50
C Spring 50
Damper 0
Understeer 50
minimum 10
Then tweak from there. If the wheel feels too light, add a little more minimum. If the wheel doesn’t rotate fast enough for you, raise understeer a little. Only adjust 1 slider at a time, and then retest. Never change multiple sliders at the same time, as you wont know what did what.
well your settings didnt change much of my problem … still that same feel of the wheel want to simulate the seat of the car insteed of the info a wheel is suppose to give … like i said its not a setup problem … its a road feel problem … it overcome the car feedback … the only thing that cannot be changed in FH4 … while off roading the wheel should be very loose … that why i prefer FH3 FFB … it was lifeless but the wheel is lifeless when off roading/rallying
I’m hijacking this thread a bit too. I agree with OP that it feels a bit violet off-road still. I’ll post all my settings below, I’m new to wheel (bought it mainly for Forza Horizon 4 and I will be honest. I got no clue what I’am doing). I’m trying to achieve a good “realistic” feel on road and off-road.
Wheel: Thrustmaster T500RS (latest firmware) with TP3A Pro Pedals.
Platform: PC
My wheel software are the following
Rotation: 800 degrees.
Overall Strength: 60%
Constant: 100%
Periodic: 100%
Spring: 100%
Damper: 100%
Auto-Center Settings:
By the game (Recommended).
My Settings In-Game.
Vibration: Off
Mouse Free Look: On
Invert Force Feedback: Off
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Steering Linearity: 45
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 5
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 1
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 70
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 70
E-Brake Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
E-Brake Axis Deadzone Outside: 20
Vibration Scale: 0
Force Feedback Scale: 60
Center Spring Scale: 50
Wheel Damper Scale: 0
Force Feedback Understeer: 50
Force Feedback Minimun Force: 100
Steering Sensitivity: 50
At this point I don’t know what to do, like i said earlier I don’t know what i’m doing so I’m happy with anyone that can share their settings since I’m willing to try anything out and see how it is. I understand this is not a true sim game, but I’m just trying to have as much fun as I can possible get with a wheel.
Best Regards
Well, as luck would have it; I happen to have a friend that drives race cars. He has done quite a bit of rally driving in the past, so I showed him your post; in order to get an opinion from someone who has actually done rally driving for real.
I think lifeless is the wrong term for you to use. My usage of it in regards to FH3, is for the fact there is just nothing there. No self aligning, nothing for the suspension/road based feeling. Nothing. Its dead on a wheel.
With regards to the settings I posted for you to use at 510 degrees of wheel rotation on a Thrustmaster TMX wheel, I put them to the test myself. I loaded up the game on my PC, and used my T300. Thrustmaster device to Thrustmaster device comparison. Though the T300 is a more powerful wheel. With that in mind, the FFB was very light. The surface changes between dirt, gravel, and tarmac where very noticeable. Mud resulted in a lesser overall feel, baring the big bumps; and aligning feel was much lighter. It was generally vague, and soft in feel.
Gravel was a good in between the feel of mud and tarmac, and gave a good sense of what the car was doing. There was much more feeling over driving on mud, but far less feel than driving on tarmac. Aligning feel felt stronger, but still softer than on tarmac.
Tarmac I was able to feel things far better. Its fairly in line with what my friend conveyed in his response about rally driving IRL. All in all, it felt very much in line with the feeling you state you actually want. So you either input a setting wrong somewhere, or you didn’t actually test them.
With regards to FH4, well, I already explained where each area of the settings effects the force feedback. So, taking that into consideration. If the wheel is too ‘lively’ for your personal preference, you need to lower the “force feedback understeer” setting more. This, as I stated in my previous post, pertains to the mostly mechanical feel of the car. Secondary to that, you could always lower the “force feedback scale” more, but with it already at 50; I would say to do so in very small amounts. No more than 2 or 3 points at a time.
My T300 is essentially the same wheel as your T500, for the most part. I have my TM driver set to 75% Overall, all other settings the same as yours as far as the driver is concerned. If you read my last post in this thread, I describe what does what in regards to the feelings conveyed through the force feedback. I would highly recommend lowering force feedback minimum force to 50 or lower, as this setting increases the weight feel in the wheel as the tires come under cornering load. It also has a very sudden drop in forces when the limit of grip has been exceeded.
you re right … lifeless is not right term … and most of my expérience comes from buggies in mud and a bit of gravel … the actual problem is vibration … the alignement torque or the feedback of the car is not bad … its just covered by the vibration, the road feel … the best i can describe it is like i said … the wheel shakes like it want to give me the feedback of the seat more than the wheel … its nothing like dirt rally where bumps dont sent my steering everywhere
FH4 uses almost the same ffb system as fm7 and you will need to change your car suspension settings in order so drive offroad with less shacking.
I am using a fanatic csl wheel and you can feel a wrong tuned suspension on every surface. Try so soften your rebound and bump to absorb heavy bumps or lower the spring rate to get a softer feeling.
this site http://bg55.com/bg55ftc-beta.php can help you to tune your cars for different track types
OId post, but this is what ruins FH4 for me. The problem didn’t exist in FH3
Off-road feel is terrible, it shakes and vibrates wheel too violently.
Blaming it on “setup” is silly, normal everyday car IRL doesn’t behave like this. If it’s the setup, then all the default setups are terrible.
You can take any normal car like Ford Focus in FH4 and on gravel it will feel terrible, the wheel shakes like in earthquake. Where as, in my country lot of roads are gravel roads, and lot of people drive their IRL Ford Focus completely smoothly, without earthquake hitting their steering every time they try to go to work or grocery store, using a gravel road. IRL people can’t switch their “setups” every time they need to use different type of road. Nobody changes “setups” IRL for their damn work commuting, with their Ford Focus. The same setup works in tarmac, snow and gravel, year around.
Fix it for FH5, since you obviously couldn’t fix it for FH4.
Gravel road IRL =/= earthquake hits the steering wheel. Gravel IRL = almost completely smooth
In FH4 gravel driving, it feels like tyres are made out of wood and car suddenly has karting car suspension (no suspension). Every small stone on the road gives a terrible jolt to your hands. Nothing gets absorbed by the rubber of the tyre, or suspension.
On tarmac tyres feel natural, that is the weird part
And yes you can get rid of this by using ton of damper and spring, like the game suggests. But then you will feel absolutely nothing on any surface. On tarmac the FFB is actually quite decent, but ONLY if you have put minimum force to 100 and disable damper/spring
