I have 2 times but no response
My event viewer says d3d9.dll error when i start emuwheel . No window is opened , just crashed to Desktop with no message
If you are running any OSD or overlay program (MSI afterburner…) turn it off. I had same problem like you but when i turned off afterburner, it was working.
Plato is taking some well deserved time off. Since releasing for FM7 his channel has grown from 60ish users to over 150. I’ll try and pick up the slack where I can.
Yeah its really fine now … many thx for your work and also @Plato for this amazing tool .
But is there a easy way to detect clipping or is there a good start setting for a fanatec csr on PC ? Mine feels good i thing but maybe it can get better
I’ve played with emuwheel for a couple of hours now, and it is almost a new game! I urge you who have tried it to hurry up and do so! And why don’t Turn10 just buy out this guy? It really needs this program!
I still have to put some time to getting my EmuWheel sorted, but if it really is that good, then I can’t imagine how tough it would be to convert his work (the calculations / functions) as another layer in the game’s code itself.
But by my reckoning, there is some real hubris in the current Turn 10 management team that sees so much community borne efforts ignored.
I noticed something “interesting”… Using a Thrustmaster TX on Xbox One.
If I set the FFB scale slider above 55 (give or take), I start getting FFB clipping.
The higher the FFB scale value is set at (above 55), the worse the clipping gets.
With the FFB scale set at 100, the FFB clipping is so bad that I get basically zero FFB drop off when the car is understeering…
Please note that I do have my FFB understeer slider at its default value of 100 in order to get understeer feedback, which does work nicely when my FFB scale is set at no more than 55 (again, give or take).
When I look at the settings posted by various people using the same wheel as mine on Xbox One (Thrustmaster TX), I notice that maybe half of the people (roughly) are using a “moderate” FFB scale value (anywhere between 35-65; yes, I’ve seen as low as 35!), and the other half are using a “high” FFB scale value (80-100).
When people complain about “bad” FFB on Forza 7 (“rough”, “not detailed”, etc), could it be that they may be running a higher FFB scale value than their wheel can handle, and thus they may actually be experiencing FFB clipping? Just a thought.
I don’t have a ton of experience with racing sims, but personnally I think the FFB on Forza 7 is really nice (at least with the settings I settled with), and I’m trully enjoying the game with my wheel!
My wheel settings, Thrustmaster TX, Xbox One:
All deadzones 0-100
FFB scale: 55
Vibration scale: 100
DOR: 900 (I believe that would be “Sensitivity: 100” on PC)
All other settings at default (i.e. Steering linearity 50, FFB understeer 100, FFB minimum force 100, Damper scale 20, Center spring scale 25)
EDIT: just did a race on Le Mans track in rainy conditions (Early prototype racer division), the feedback when driving on water puddles was really superb, and could hardly feel more realistic!
We have a very similar setup! I have a One X, TX wheel leather edition, T3PA pedals, TH8A shifter.
That’s weird, I haven’t noticed this problem, but maybe I haven’t paid enough attention… I will pay extra attention next time I play.
Do you get just a grinding noise, or does it also affect the actual shift time?
Does it happen when you use the TH8A shifter, or the wheel paddles, or both?
Does it happen with all the cars?
By any chance, does it also happen if you increase your clutch outside deadzone to 100? I know this is totally counter-intuitive, since in theory increasing the outside deadzone should make things worse, but well this is a game not real life, so there might be some weird discrepancy between what should happen in theory and what was actually coded in the game regarding the clutch.
Also, you may want to connect your wheel to a PC and run the Thrustmaster app, to check that your clutch pedal is working properly/progressively from fully released position to fully depressed position.
THX : after spending 10 hours for trying settings with EMUWHEEL, now i have FFB better than Assetto corsa/Raceroom/Project cars 2 !
how ? i have just removed the “dead” feeling when we are not in a curve, the most bad thing in the FFB currently ! i added engine vibrations constantly, shift vibration ( nice like R3E) and minimal force !
now the game has better FFB than Asssetto and far better graphics : ultimate simulation after these 10 hours, I’ve re-launched Assetto COrsa and SURPRISE, Assetto corsa now feel arcade about FFB and has awfull graphics
i can try to improve again it, cause i need minimal force stronger, but it gives me oscillation, and i need filter, but i need time
i have TS PC RACER + Th8A
I will be happy to share my settings, but be carefull i lke strong FFB, everything is at 100% in trust panel or game (i’m addicted to wheel effect)
I will have to respectfully disagree having used both a Fanatec CSW V2 and now an Accuforce the FFB is still average at best and much worse than those you listed. The forces in the other games are much more subtle as in a real car but looking at the effects you are adding you’re clearly more into having lots of feedback rather than realistic feedback. Constant engine vibration and shift vibration are not things which should be coming through the steering column and if it was you’d be taking it to a garage for a service, they should be off for realism but on PC with you using a buttkicker to have it felt in the seat, though Forza 7 unfortunately doesn’t support telemetry output for it to work.
You also really shouldn’t be running both at 100%, you’ll be getting a lot of clipping which is probably why you can’t tell the difference between the games with your FFB too high in all of them because when the wheel is maxed out it will just have one large constant force where it feels elastic but with no other detail getting through, like going hard around a corner.
The graphics in AC really aren’t awful that is a massive exaggeration your bias is clear when you call it the best simulation, even with you liking it’s FFB the physics are not shooting for the same level of realism. AC has VR support too which personally I find incredible and hope Forza 7 will add it in the future because it would run great with their dynamic settings options.
Anyway any word on an automatic steering lock patch yet, really the biggest thing I want right now and at a push support for telemetry output for external apps and displays?
i have all racing games since 1998
i know how to configure FFB and don’t worry about clipping
Forza 7 is so far better now with emuwheel for Sport tourism car !
With Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio it’s obvious how Forza 7 is so far superior now !
I can admit with others it can be a little weak, but for road cars it’s a must have !
I can feel in you the typical snobism from assetto corsa player, thinking this game is the best and that’s all : sorry now the king is Forza 7 and emuwheel !
And i can add with night and rain, there’s no more thing about talking : RIP assetto
About graphics, i play Assetto at 8K and aliaising x4, yes not bad, but even at 4k FOrza 7 is so far better
I just regret we can’t mirror with cockpit veiw : a shame !
you don’t know how to configure FFB i think, but don’t worry and just try maybe one day you will know
And go in a real car if you can’t feel the gear shifting
Oh really I thought they said they were working on a soft lock?
All you need to do is make sure you are on the latest version of Windows 10 since the last big update as it added native Accuforce Wheel support. Once you have that you can fire up the game and assign the controls and it will work fine, except in the menus you still need M&KB as there is no way to change the button assignments for those, I guess you could use joy2key or something similar with a toggle if you really wanted to.
If you have everything maxed on 100% force then you most definitely are driving with clipping there is no disputing that, there is no reason to be running it that high on any wheel in Forza because unlike say iRacing (which FYI I don’t have) it doesn’t have accurate torque values for the wheel to match and work within the wheels limit.
Road vibrations and shift vibrations in the wheel are really not things you feel in the wheel in a real car, if you get a big jolt from shifting and cause the car to squirm then sure the wheel will react but that’s not vibration and it’s a bad shift. The surge you get is felt in the body not the wheel.
Also I only brought up AC because you were bashing it, I play and enjoy pretty much every racing game (AC, AMS, PCars 1&2, rF2, R3E, F1 2016, Forza 7) and can see the flaws in all of them rather than blindly claiming one is much better than the rest based on false assumptions, it might be better for you but it is definitely not more realistic.
It’s funny you talk about adding rain when that is one of the most unrealistic things in Forza 7 as there are no tyre changes and race cars can drive around on inters/wets in dry conditions without them overheating and giving no grip, but it’s fine because it really isn’t trying to be a hardcore sim. F1 2016/17 and PCars 1/2 have much better wet weather simulation that is properly dynamic rather than presets like F7 and PCars also has proper fully dynamic lighting with a 24hr cycle rather than just a faked night preset but then those games have their own issues too. We are getting off topic though and this isn’t going to go anywhere so I will leave you be, as long as you are enjoying it that’s all that matters.
I wouldn’t go throwing claims like that just because somebody disagrees with you, especially on the topic of Forza FFB you will find a lot of people are going to disagree with you, myself included.
While forza 7 undoubtedly has the best FFB/wheel experience in any forza so far, it still has areas that are quite flawed.
I’ll make a comparison with AC as an example of something rather simple that adds a lot more depth and immersion to the FFB. In forza the sine wave (vibration effect) that activates when you touch a rumble strip always plays at the same frequency, on AC the frequency is multiplied by the vehicle speed, if you go very slowly the sine wave plays very slowly as if you can feel the tyre drop of each edge of the rumble strip, and if you go fast the sine wave speed plays so fast it’s more like a buzzing through the wheel.