Just wondered if anyone else suffers from this, or knows anything more about it…
My fanatec CSW V2 Base + XBO hub using paddle shifts always defaults to neutral just as the race starts. This means you have to manually select first just as the timer gets to zero which inevitably loses you a few hundred milliseconds of time…
I’ve contacted Fanatec since an early version of the firmware worked ok, however whilst making nice improvements to the wheel for compatibility with other games etc, this ‘issues’ was suddenly introduced…
The response from Fanatec is:
This behaviour has been around for a long time now (6 months +) and I’m wondering if it’s a widely known issue or not.
This happens with my G920 wheel when I have the driving force shifter or my G27 shifter connected. If you have a H-shifter attached, just pop it into first gear and leave it there. It will not effect the paddle shifters, as they will still work as they should. Just means you don’t need to select first right when the countdown finishes.
PzR,
If you have a shifter with your Fanatec wheel like I do when you use the paddles always keep the shifter in 1st gear. I am not sure why this works but what ever gear your shifter is in is the gear you will start out in even though you ate using the paddles. Once I found this it shifts perfectly normal with the paddles. You can even use the clutch with the paddles on manual with clutch if you so desire. When I use the paddles though I set it at manual not manual with clutch ( I have the clutch and shifter but suck with my downshifting with a clutch)
FWIW the TX wheel with the TH8A shifter does the same thing - if I’m driving a car with paddle shifters IRL I will often set the assist to manual only and use the wheel paddles, but the gear at the start of the race is determined by where the TH8A stick is at the start of the race.
IIRC the fanatec wheel will only be able to select neutral if a h - pattern shifter is connected. As already suggested, the shifter should be left in first gear even if your not using it.
I don’t have any external shifter plugged in (nor do I own one either). This is just a ‘bare wheel’ with the paddle shifters. I could think about spending a bit on getting a shifter just to plug in and leave in first, but I’d rather T10 fixed this issue, or worked with Fanatec on fixing it.
Being a software engineer I try not to get too frustrated, but I can’t help think this one is a very easy ‘fix’ and considering the investment some of us make in hardware, it would be nice if all these things where sorted in their title updates.
I’ll make them an offer… If I find my own way to their offices, I’ll put my money where my mouth is and if they give me a week, I’ll sort the solution out myself, however I do insist that I get some quality time to talk to their teams about what’s coming up and possibly sample any new ‘tech’ they may be working on… sounds like a fair deal
I am one month into owning new Fanatec wheel base & hub. Using original V1 pedals. I always get the 3-2-1-0 change from Gear 1 to Neutral situation. I figured this was normal. It is annoying! I just got used to hitting up shift just after the 1 dissapeared on the countdown. If this wasnt the condition with older firmware, then I can understand the frustration!
I have a more serious problem & should probably make a new post.
So I’ve just been doing career which are short races. I unlocked Bathurst 100 a few days ago. I can’t get past lap 15 or ~31 minutes of driving because of a failure!
I get shaking of the wheel for 15 sec & then it stops shaking & the car ignores the gas pedal after that point. The blue bar on the screen, that shows accelerator amount, does confirm that the pedal is giving output to the system. But the car does not react. I have tried 2 times on the first day & one time on the second day. Then I tried the Rivals races & after 31 minutes of cranking out laps, the same failure happens!
One time I paused the game after the failure & powered off the wheel & tried continuing the driving in the same session using the controller. But the car did not react to the accelerator of the controller either.
Do ppl have these problems when attempting to drive in endurance races like I do? Or am I just unlucky?
Seems to me there is a software problem since the pedal is giving output to the system.
Who do I contact at T10 to find the solution?
Road Racer,
I have not had that problem with my set up. It kind of sounds like the Xbox is not recognizing it as active and timing out the controller that being the wheel. My wheel stays on until I physically turn it off. I can use the Kinect and turn off my Xbox, tv, and stereo but my wheel I turn off manually. If I leave the room say to eat supper, the wheel/ controller will time out but my wheel stays on and upon my return press any button on the wheel and it’s like I never left.
Cmon T10, help out us suckers who have invested a ridiculous amount of money on trying to enjoy the game the way it was meant to be…
I’ve recently picked up an E46 M3 IRL which I’m doing a whole load of TLC jobs to, and really want to enjoy racing it more online as well, but I’ve not been near online for weeks now as I get stuffed at every race start by at least 3/4 of a car length and with the competitive people I play with that’s a real handicap…
