Ok so I hooked up my CSR wheel to the Xbox and slapped fm4 in. Now I have a question or 2 what am I doing wrong to make every single Rwd apart from my Ferraris undrivable? If I use the pad and push real hard full lock and flat throttle I can run through corners without the back end sliding out, weaving what ever. As soon as I plugged the wheel in even with only 2-6 degree of input and 15% throttle it starts snaking and spins. I have tried plenty of set ups on the wheel settings, plenty of adjustments in the tubing menus and still can’t get the damn things to drive worth a crap.
Front end doesn’t let go, rear does every time even with awd cars and I’m getting pretty annoyed now.
Use SIM steering with pad and wheel no assists, have tried normal steering on the wheel with t/c and atm but that made things worse
Have used the wheel with the Pc and not had any problems.
Ps t10 if you’re reading this MAKe the forums touch friendly please!!!
that would help … anyway here’s myn :
Sen - 900 ore off
FF - 060
Sho - 100
Dri - off (only needed wen drifting)
Abs - off
lin - 000
dea - 000
spr - 0
dpr - 0
acl - on
I run my sen at 170 and sho down at 30 that helped me but the wheel will take you a good month to get used to good thing is it helped me learn how to tune my cars real fast, and I only drive my own tunes cant seem to run peoples tunes but they can run mine check my SF try some tunes see if they help you let me know Jammer
Sen 480
Ff 70
Sho 100
Dri off
Abs off
Lin 000
Dea 000
Spr 0
Dpr 3
Acl on
Dead zones in game 0/100 all the way
No abs
No t/c, stm
SIM steering
Manual w/clutch
Don’t think I’m forgetting anything… I just can’t seem to keep the back end behind the car mid and rear engines are barely drivable keep loosing it under braking (will adjust balance when I’m back)
my suggestion, because you are running a low sensitivity you shoud do the detection glitch, it adds speed sensitive steering so your steering wont be as sensitive. to do the glitch, make a profile (say s_1) with deg 260 or less other settings dont matter, then have S_2 as your desired 480 degrees, bind the wheel to the console while it is set to S_1, then once its conect it simply switch it to S_2. it will do you wonders.
There isn’t anything I can see in your settings which could cause the symptoms you’re describing, the only things I can think of that might cause over-sensitivity with the wheel are changing the degrees of rotation while in game or possible tuning issues with the cars themselves. Some cars can be very easy to get loose under heavy braking, keeping some power on while braking usually fixes that though. It might be worth rebinding the wheel and console as well.
I see you don’t run with full force feedback, for best results reduce the effects in game and not on the wheel. Your damping is very high, try reducing that as it tends to deaden the responsiveness of the wheel.
I quite like the dampening it feels smoother and has a good amount more resistance. I tried playing with the spring setting on the wheel and couldn’t deal with the wheel getting sprung back to the center position at random point in the corners.
I’ll deffinately have another look at the tunes though and play with the ffb setting in game. I have gone and rebound it with the console to no avail, it’s got 756 firmware so it’s bang up to date there.
It doesn’t appear to be the wheel it’s self as it turns in nice and the front end holds but even 3 or 4% throttle input is causing the back end to brake loose. As I said with the controller I could push and hold the throttle between 75 and 90% through corners but since swapping to the wheel with a lower steering angle I’m just getting masses and masses of oversteer. It’s easy enough to correct but it’s costing me 40 seconds a lap round the ring, and 2 or 3 on tighter slower tracks where I’m accellerating out of corners.
What’s confusing me is that the Ferraris I built are pretty much right where I want them, and I match my times or am bettering them but any other manufacturer I have drives like a turd. R classes are incredibly loose despite high downforce where before they ran like they were on rails.
Any other ideas would be welcome and thanks for the advice so far I’ll try the tips out see if I can figure it out. Great wheel though, love it only a shame it doesn’t work with the Xbox one
I quite like the dampening it feels smoother and has a good amount more resistance. I tried playing with the spring setting on the wheel and couldn’t deal with the wheel getting sprung back to the center position at random point in the corners.
I’ll deffinately have another look at the tunes though and play with the ffb setting in game. I have gone and rebound it with the console to no avail, it’s got 756 firmware so it’s bang up to date there.
It doesn’t appear to be the wheel it’s self as it turns in nice and the front end holds but even 3 or 4% throttle input is causing the back end to brake loose. As I said with the controller I could push and hold the throttle between 75 and 90% through corners but since swapping to the wheel with a lower steering angle I’m just getting masses and masses of oversteer. It’s easy enough to correct but it’s costing me 40 seconds a lap round the ring, and 2 or 3 on tighter slower tracks where I’m accellerating out of corners.
What’s confusing me is that the Ferraris I built are pretty much right where I want them, and I match my times or am bettering them but any other manufacturer I have drives like a turd. R classes are incredibly loose despite high downforce where before they ran like they were on rails.
Any other ideas would be welcome and thanks for the advice so far I’ll try the tips out see if I can figure it out. Great wheel though, love it only a shame it doesn’t work with the Xbox one
well let me join you in a conqest for a anwser …
just tryed horizon and i have no feeling ore control with my fanatec wheel…
in fm4 all most all rearwheel driven cars will spin out …
It sounds like a tuning issue to me OP. I can’t tune at all, so I usually pick a car and class I want it for and I’ll buy about five tunes that I like the look of from the SF. If I manage to find one that works for me with my wheel then I’ve done well.
The controller makes cars much easier to handle and tunes that work well with a controller can be un-drivable with a wheel from what I’ve found.
I use Sim steering and 270 degrees rotation myself.
looks like my driving days are over, only way i can get around a track is in 270 en sim. steering even then the car wants to sping around.
realy dont understand why this s happening, spend 16 hrs trying to tune a car the isent spinning out.
pppffff im done gonne spend my money somewhere else …
Right I’m not sure what’s happening I have tried all the sugjestions and I’m still at a loss. The cars oversteering on 0 throttle input. The back end just lets go (even in standard cars at low speeds) R2 and R1 are solid anything below is horrendous.
I have tried some 30 different tunes on 10 different cars, every single one lets the back end go but at higher speeds they are ok.
I’m totally lost here. By the way why when I put 2degree of lock on the wheel set to 480 does it go to 23 degrees in-game???
Again any help is appreciated I’m struggling to understand this.
I just got a wheel myself and am running a minimum of 3 seconds slower (a class road america avergae 2:15-16s turned into 2:20-2:19s). I’ve got a friend who has given me his wheel setup but I’m not sure it suites my drving style. Also I was having a similar problem to you with some of my tunes. Check your Brake bias and make sure you dont go under 45% Let me know if youre interested in racing too. I could use some practice with someone new to the wheel.
ok I’m getting comfortable with the wheel times are coming down every time now (set the wheel to 480deg) MUCH nicer and MUCH more precise (though still catches you out on turn in because now you don’t turn in as quick lol)
So now i have an issue with the h-pattern. It doesn’t register on the xbox when i start the xbox with the wheel, but if i turn the xbox on first then start the wheel in game it detects the wheel and H-Pattern but it reacts like a controller on the throttle, brakes, clutch and steering. (i have tried updating the firmware and everything else, the H-pattern has been synced in PC mode and in XBOX mode) so now I’m not sure where to go because i prefer the h-pattern to the paddles haha.
any help would once again be great.
for those of you who want to practice with the wheel join up on our forums
When you say your wheel is responding like a controller, what do you mean? Throttle, brakes and clutch souldnt be affected, but the steering will be different above 270 deg if you start the console with the wheel. If that way is your prefered feel for the steering I recommend you do what I posted above and you will be able to use the h-pattern shifter
edit:
forza has two models for steering wheel input, one for low end wheels that have minimal rotation, and a second model for 900 degree wheels. fanatec wheels can use both models, normally anything 270 degrees or less will be the starndard input (which has some very slight aids hidden in it and speed sensitive steering so that inputs arent too sensitive) when a fanatec wheel canges rotation from 270-280 degrees you will notice the wheel disconects and reconects. this is because it is switching steering models (if you start your console with the wheel it outomaticaly sets it to the standard input no matter what rotation and it wont recognise the H-patern shifter). you will notice a masive diference between driving with 270 and 280 degrees, 280 degrees is super sensitive and feels really horible imho where as the normal 270 feels much nicer. now if you have a profile setting on your wheel with less than 270 degrees, when you change profiles to a higher rotation it bypasses the reconect on the wheel and keeps it in standard or 900 input (depending on what setting you connected the wheel to the console in) so you can manually set the degrees higher while mantaining the same standard input method, i would recomend doing it if you run anything under 540 degrees, because forza has very sensitive linearity and the less rotation you use the more twitchy and unstable the cars feel.
please help me my Fanatec is wierd i connect it and when i have 270 degrees i have ffb in like 2 sec then i dont have ffb then i have, and when i change to 900 degrees my wheel disconects as Blue028 says but its still the same it dosent have ffb then i have and then i not have please help!!!1
