Why is it rubbish? Could you elaborate on that comment? I think it is a good starting point. I use the android app as well, but this post gives some insight into the calculations!
Thank you for for feedback, I would direct you to reading the first paragraph again. Btw fyi I can get LB cars tuned like this within a 2 or 3 seconds of leaderboard times. So if your struggling to do the same or even struggling to follow the guide then maybe you should practice more and study the game better. Sorry just saying.
I think your guide is very good and does a very good job with explaining why set certain things. The only piece I don’t quite agree with is about the Toe but thats just personal tuning preference. Overall this is a great contribution to the community.
Ioh yeah, also decel 8n RWD cars I run much higher like 60-80, I just dont like the end whipping around on slow completely off throttle turns.
Hey how it going, thanks for your comment. Yea your absolutely right it is about personal preference. Same with accel decel it all depends on your smoothness etc I guess and Assits play a big factor naturally, I run no tcs abs or stb with manual and clutch.
I’m glad you can see the guide potential hope you have a great evening my friend.
“So if the car weights 3,000 lbs and has a front of 50% it will have an even split front and rear there for you’ll have 1,500 lbs Front and Rear, since the 1,500 has to be split between both wheels at the front and rear you then simply divide the 1,500 by 2 which will give you 750 lbs (in game front suspension represents 1 wheel as does the rear).”
Of cause, so when your on your tuning screens when your playing the game and you just spilt the cars weight like I have shown ie 3000lbs by 50% Front you get 1500lbs. If it was a case on the suspension tuning that the front was both wheels and equal to half the cars wieght 1500lbs, then you would find you could not fit 1500lbs on the scale and if you did then the car would be so stiff that it would be undrivable, that’s why you split that 1500 by 2.
Hope this helps clear it up for you my friend
The F&R spring rates represent a per wheel value, not the rate for the both suspensions (front OR rear), combined.
Take for example a car that weighs 2500pcs, and 43% of its weight is at the front:
FRONT WEIGHT:
2500lbs X .43 = 1075lbs, divided by 2 (suspensions) = 537.5lbs
REAR WEIGHT:
2500lbs X .57 = 1425lbs, divided by 2 = 712.5
You would set your front to 537.5 and the rear to 712.5, not 1075 and 1425.
So…(537.5 X 2) + (712.5 X 2) = 2500lbs
This is not how I set my spring rates (I prefer softer so I decrease both front and rear by a rate of ‘X’ depending on the vehicle), but just some math to illustrate what the value in the game represents.
Another easy way to set spring rates, is to look at the weight of the car pre/post weight reduction, and adjust spring values by the same percentage.
Example:
Adjust (decrease) your spring, rebound, and bump stiffness’s by the same percentage.
This will give you a good suspension base tune to start from.
Of course, if you are adding down force, you take a little less percentage off the value(s)…and this is where it becomes tricky because down force is relative to speed…the quicker the speed, the more LBS of down force are exerted on the car.
So in the above example if I were running front and rear wings, that added a total of 300lbs of total down force, I would only subtract about 8% from starting values.
Tuning is a not a hard and fast rule…track, driving style, and car type all play a role.
I run my test drives in Rio…smooth roads, bumpy roads, elevation changes, short turns, sweeping turns…watching the car, feeling how it drives, and looking at the telemetry - these all combine to help you dial in or make finer adjustments.
I will say that finding a perfect tune is impossible…because of the track and environmental variance (racing line is one main example in MP). And so - above all else - assuming you have a good tune…the rest falls on the shoulders of the driver and to a much lesser degree - reliance on the tune of the mechanical parts beneath him (or her).
Thanks for the tuning guide! I’ve been testing it out on F1 and Indycars, and it works pretty well on the 1967 F1 cars so far (words can’t describe how happy that makes me). I have a tune for the Lotus 77 but I haven’t test driven it yet. The Honda Indycar may have a little too much downforce (for Watkins Glen full) but you can push that thing like nothing else. The only problem I’ve run into so far is the Lotus E23, it’s a little too twitchy so I think I need to fine tune it a bit. That said I think it’s a fantastic guide for explaining everything properly.
BTW Lotus 77, excellent handling, but needs a bit longer gears for the back stretch at Watkins Glen
I agree 100%, IMO you can over think and make tuning more difficult than what it is, the key is your build, driving skills and or car with a specific track. There is (as you said) no perfect tune.
Anyway, I’m new to Forza tuning at detailed level, so I’ve been trying a few of the baseline methods to find something I like. So far I’ve liked your methods the most for getting a useable baseline.
Thanks for the kind comment so glad that you’ve found it useful and helpful n no nothing to do with the axel just the springs in regard to the previous comment