I got an XBox Elite controller which let me do some things:
Shift-Up and Shift-Down became RB and LB - which I mapped to two of the paddles, so I have a paddle based gearbox. This released X,A,Y and B for their traditional duties:
A - E-Brake
X - Activate
B - Horn
Y - Rewind
Which is nice for eliminator.
I am driving, obviously, with a manual gearbox now. Is it worthwhile trying clutch too? Its taken me about 3 weeks to get back to where I was lap time wise and start seeing benefit from the switch from automatic to manual, and i’m still not nearly as smooth when doing 180’s and I need to switch rapidly from forward to reverse gearing and back, and the occasional gear miscount can occasionally see me trying to reverse midway through a slow corner.
ABS, TCS etc are all off. Still unsure about ABS on all cars - Some I Still seem to faceplant walls to often. Perhaps I just need to keep tuning the brake balance and pressure. But it would be really nice if ABS (and TCS) were per car settings because some RWD cars are simply undrivable without TCS on.
Now, to retard my lap times even more, while pretending to get better, “simulation steering” - is it worthwhile - with the elite controller upping the left stick tension, using the longer thumbstick, and switching from normal to simulation steering?
anyway - if anyone has different setups - especially different response curves configured - I’d be interested to know how they are working out.
I just use the default controls on a non-Elite Xbox controller. Manual with clutch will generally be quicker than manual. Normal steering. But only you can know what works best for you.
For Forza the Elite I seems to be better because it has a mechanical trigger lock instead of the electrical of the Mk II.
The mechanical actually decreases the maximum pressure while the electrical only decreases the way of travel but always applies 100% pressure.
Thus, with the Mk I you can set your brake pressure at 200%, turn off ABS, lock the trigger and roughly achieve the optimal brake pressure without having to throttle the trigger. Very easy and a huge advantage over the usage of ABS.
Manual with clutch is only advantageous if the car has a clutch or gearbox with a shift time penalty. Meaning, every car with a swapped drivetrain won’t profit from manual with clutch.
As for a different steering response curve the only option is to try them and see what fits you best.
I use a slower initial response because I wanted to rival wheel users at the ovals in Motorsport 7 where very small steering inputs are useful. It also helped with racing in GTA Online where the physics reward many small inputs over simply holding the stick in a direction.
That’s why I got used to the slower initial response and use it for all racing games. But that’s just me.
Simulation steering is only useful for FWD cars in Horizon 4 and even there, most of the benefit can also be achieved by an efficient tuning setup.
I barely use it. In Motorsport on the other hand it’s very good and mandatory for FWD and lower class cars. The faster turn-in helps a lot.
Simulation is much better because you don’t feel how game helps you. I want to drive my car as much as possible which is a bit problematic in Horizon but simulation helps.
I have Elite 1 an 2 and now use 2 only, it’s better for me. The trigger locks for braking sound pretty bad to me. I want to brake on my own
Every assists off and default controls. What is important, if you use 4 fingers for front of the controller or 2 only? Steering curve sounds like a good idea but didn’t have time to test it yet.
I like clutch so I use it. It’s important for my driving too. I drift a lot between racing so it doesn’t make sense to change it.
I mean if you turn every single assist off, there is still a hidden assist.
For 99% of people I would leave it on normal, but for those who really know what they’re doing and can make use of it in those limited situations where it may provide a benefit, maybe it is useful but as the OP isn’t even using clutch I would put him in the 99% category.
AFAIK there is no reason not to use M+C all the time, even on cars which may not be faster, that way it becomes second nature. Having said that, there is one exception I found - when in drift adventures the car can sometimes refuse to respond for a short while when shifting down and releasing the clutch, which is a flaw in how the game engine has been coded, so that is one exception where manual is better. But for racing, M+C imo.
MC has one minor drawback where M is better: aggressive downshifting to induce engine braking.
Without the clutch the engine instantly hits the limiter and reduces speed while with MC it has a slight delay.
Probably the same reason for what you experience in drift adventures.
Thus, if a car doesn’t have a shifting time penalty I use M for the small time gain under braking.
Sure, they are two others at least. But it doesn’t mean add others if you don’t need them. But I think standard could help with times in some situations. I don’t know, I like simulation feeling.
Sounds good to me. And if M is similar to MC in many situations then it’s another reason to use M. Still I like MC.
