Little help here - I have got cars that have got brilliant handling ratings but when I accelerate from stationary, the rear end skids out of control and the revs are stuck at the max they can go in 1st gear then after a few seconds, it goes to second gear and gets stuck on those max revs also, then when it goes to 3rd gear everything is fine.
This has happened to my mini cooper, ford Shelby and Ford GT Horizon Edition.
I have maxed out the upgrades but it still happens.
Can anyone point me in the right direction to make the cars not skid when accelerating from stationary please?
It’s likely in the difficulty settings you have TSC turned off - that’s the Traction Control, whist stops the wheels from spinning.
If you want to leave the TSC off, then you need to control your throttle movements - e.g. Don’t always use full throttle, use half throttle so you can accelerate without spinning the wheels too much
Thanks mate for that, I will try that when I am home.
If I turn TSC on, will that amend the percentage I get from credits or is that unaffected? I think it will affect it but just wanted to ask just in case I was wrong
Yes, it will alter the percentage, everything in those settings does. I would recommend trying to get used to driving with TSC off as it’s adds a certain ‘risk’ and excitement to proceedings. The skidding only really applies to cars with higher acceleration and, as was suggested, better acceleration control at the start is the key to overcoming it. I’d suggest heading out to the airfield with TSC off and practice straight launching there, you’ll get it soon enough.
I used to run with it permanently on in previous games but now it’s always off. I won’t be going back.
When I make an HP monster, particularly RWD, I feather-throttle and short-shift every gear that gives me trouble. On some cars that’s as many as 3 out of 6 gears. So, if it breaks traction immediately, upshift. Repeat as necessary. You’ll get the feel for each of your cars. Also, you should always get control of gear ratios, with a sport- or race-level transmission. That way, you can lower the final drive ratio (sport, race), or adjust individual gears (race) for best performance. A numerically lower drive ratio or gear ratio will let you apply more throttle before traction breaks.
^yep, it’s just like real life (or, at least, real life back when you had to know how to handle your horsepower because technology didn’t hold your hand in your car).
Ok actual mechanic and road course racer here who does all his own work and tunning. So I’m not going to be able to give you a magical answer that will solve your problem but I can point out what may be wrong and how you can work with tuning to point you in the right direction.
You may be suffering from an improperly built car. Either too much power and not enough tire on the ground or even not good enough tire all together. Tire stickiness in this game is basically boiled down to how wide the tire is and the type of tire you are using. In real life this is a case of tread pattern and how soft or hard a tire is. The softer the tire, the quicker it will wear down but will give you more traction. On the police cars I work on everyday we use Z rated tires which only last ten thousand miles but allow the car to have good traction at high speeds. Tires that have a harder compound will last significantly longer… hence why some tires will last upwards of forty thousand miles. You may need to sacrifice some power or weight reduction to fit in a higher quality tire.
The suspension also plays a gigantic role too. Race suspensions and sway bars give you a lot better control as well as range of movement. The real upside is that they are fully adjustable. A rear wheel drive car works like you think. The rear wheels apply the turning force to the road while the weight of the car as well as the suspension work at keeping those tires planted firmly against the ground. The natural instinct is that if you make the rear Springs harder that puts more pressure against the ground but you are mistaken. A softer rear spring will actually allow the rear end to squat down putting more pressure against the pavement. As an example… hold a spring in your palm and place your other palm on top of it. There isn’t much holding the spring to your lower palm other than thever weight of the spring and your top hand. Now push down on the spring without letting your lower hand move… get the point?
Dampeners work at limiting the rate that the springs move. You have compression which sets how quickly the dampener wants to compress and rebound which sets how quickly the dampener wants to push back out. Ideally you want them to compress in and then push back out to their original position. So that means the compression always needs to be much lower than the rebound. This allows you to fine tune just how much your Springs will react to squatting and going over bumps.
Next you have alignment. Boy is that a complicated matter that has been gone over to death in these forums. A lot of people could explain it better than I can and have. I behoove you to search through these forums for in depth guides and alignment.
You also need to look at your transmission settings, are they too aggressive or your final drive gear simply too small? Look at how quickly you move through gears. The object is to not get through them as quickly as possible but have them accelerate through your engines PowerBand and then repeat that until late you run out of gears. Adjust accordingly.
Finally just as other people have said… throttle control is also key.
