I had messed with a few cars and I started with the new gr supra and gave it like 1300 hp and thought that was why it didn’t like turning, but my C8 Corvette, Aston Martin Valhalla, Ferarri F50, BAC Mono, and other cars all do it, I thought I was giving too much power so i built a Lexus LFA with 698 hp and it has the same problem, I’ve tried adding weight taking away weight, using different tire compounds, and I have no clue what to do to fix this. If anyone can help me out that would be awesome
awd? cause that explain it. some cars need a bit of tuning before they can “turn propper ish” try mess with the differential a bit. maybe lower the front acc to like 5%-20% and the “balance” more towards the rear. it might help. im no expert in tuning but thats what i mess with to make them turn a bit more
Controller or wheel? Simulation or Standard steering? And have you tried driving with Anti-Lock Braking turned on? Compared to previous games it’s easy to cause your own understeer with bad braking.
Are you new to the Forza series?
This is just how the driving model is. They focus more on the “sim” side of things than most arcade racers.
Meaning the tires react far more realistically to the forces being applied to the car than any other open world racing game like Need for Speed or The Crew.
Your car can and will understeer around corners into the grass or walls.
You car will spin out of if powering out of a corner too hard.
Tires will spin if you have too much power and apply too much throttle off the line on anything but drag slicks.
Brakes will lock up and cause the car to slide forward uncontrollably if you apply them too hard.
If you go out in a 680HP Lexus LFA in the real world, you wouldn’t be constantly hammering it at wide open throttle and not expect the wheels to break loose all the time.
Which is probably what you’re doing in the game. You have to gradually apply throttle until the tires “hook” and power out from there.
Open the telemetry menu and have a look at your throttle and brake inputs and you’ll probably notice it.
Anyways, It’s just the way the series is and why a lot of people think the Horizon games FEEL way more rewarding and fun than anything else.
And in fact they have actually slightly toned it down from Horizon 4.
It’s just a matter of getting used to the tire physics and not pushing it around corners at ridiculous speeds like is so commonplace in other racers.
If you stick with it and get used to it I’m sure you’ll come to prefer it.
So do I, but I think it’s because I’ve swapped from XBox One S to PC. The XBox One S had a delay which made it harder to drive the cars. I think I would skid more correcting for the delay. Maybe lots of people have changed what device they are using.
You never had good guesses. Cars are very light and to compensate that we have lower grip. It’s pretty cool to play but it’s very far from real cars. New suspension doesn’t help either. Even slow cars drive like LMP cars. It’s not good to play as a sim but pretty cool as a drifter/fun beast. I did yesterday my best drifts ever, Ridge racer style
What do you mean when you say slide? Do you mean sliding off the road you get when your corner enter speed is too high? Or are you talking about oversteer?
If you’re talking about it feeling like you drive on ice you can get most of that off by lowering tyre pressure and setting rear diff to 60 acceleration and 30 deceleration.
slow in, fast out. all that power dont mean a thing if you cant control it.
I dominated a room full of modified cars in a completely stock car, the kinda of stock where you pick from the dealer and go.
All assist off, including ABS, you can leave that sim steering off… start racing, learn how the car drives. know where the limits are… downshift hard if you need to slow down faster, including the combination of locking up your front because you raced the other guy to the corner
not going to learn this overnight, you have to keep at it.
Grip is precisely where it should be. cars have felt far too grippy and arcadey in the previous Horizons. This is more to do with the steering linearity and deadzones.
I recommend starting with steering linearity at around 60 and then up it a little until you find the desired level of responsiveness. Next, adjust your deadzones: 0 for all insides and 100 for outsides.