Hello all. Not sure if this is on my end or it’s a really bad bug! I have a Thrustmaster tx and drive with no assists. I have the clutch bound so that the clutch is automatic for manual w\clutch. When downshifting the Corvette and Ford Gt(Haven’t tested the others yet) the car engine stalls out and after a second it starts back up and immediately spins the car out. Am i doing something wrong? I know if i use throttle blip on downshift it doesn’t do it. Maybe an issues with clutch physics in the game?
It sounds like it may be an input issue because you have the button bound to clutch and downshift at the same time.
Does the stall occur if you unbind the commands and use two buttons - one for clutch and one for downshift? Does it occur when playing with manual w/o clutch?
I know in the demo the Indy car stalls out on launch in 1st gear but that may be due to a car gearing issue that doesn’t translate from real life into the game or simply a programming bug.
Try changing the settings around on your wheel and try the above ideas. Also, take a look at your advanced wheel settings and make sure the deadzones for the clutch are set at 0 and 100.
Make sure you clutch button is set to the right button, it should be the A button. Go down the straight and hold a if I locks up your wheels then there’s your problem
He wrote that he bound the clutch to both upshift and downshift so he can play manual w/clutch and use only one button.
This means clutch isn’t A. There is no clutch button, which may be causing the issue.
For the record, clutch on lb is better than on A.
Thanks guys. For the record i bound the clutch to A. Sorry about the confusion. I did some tests. I unbound A from clutch and with just manual trans everything seems correct. I again bound the clutch to A and again the issue returns. When i am driving and push A while A bound as clutch…yes the motor will free rev. One odd thing…when clutch is bound to A the red light on the base blinks. Is that normal? I am using my t300rs rim on the tx not sure if that would matter? Maybe i am binding it wrong? I use right d pad on the t300rs rim and mode at the same time.
The light should blink if auto clutch mode is swiched on. try doing it again putting manual w/clutch on and set the wheel controls to default, if it doesnt work that way set the clutch to the a button again and watch your telemetry as you change gears to make sure the clutch is opening when you pull the paddle. You should be able to drive along and just hold the clutch open just by holding the paddle down, if it works then the auto clutch feature on the wheel is working corectly. If you keep spinning out on downshifts you are probably going to have to learn how to rev match (if your not doing it already). Perhaps if you could upload a video so we can see what’s happening
I had read in the forum somewhere but I have not tried or looked into it as the Fanatec Wheel does not have auto clutch. It was said that the A button can be used for the hand brake so the wheel may be programmed to auto use the a button but the game may be putting on the hand brake instead. This would stall the car and cause your spin outs. It may me as simple as changing your layout. I did look at the default layout and layout 1 ( which is default ) has the A button as the handbrake so it the TX Wheel auto depresses the A button you are alloying your handbrake I stead of the brake. It may change them automatically but if not that could be an issue for you. Layout 6 has the A button mapped as the brake or you can switch the clutch and handbrake as an option ( 5th one down ) on layout 1. I hope this helps you.
Thanks guys. The auto clutch is for sure mapped to the clutch because upshifts are fine, meaning there is no stutter when shifting. Also when i push the A button the car free revs. It appears that rev matching is almost mandatory, i noticed some cars needed rev matching in fm5, but nothing like this. Really weird that no one else has noticed this though because the ford gt is really bad.
Since I have gone with the Fanatec set up they don’t have an auto clutch yet so I have to go in plain manual or actually use the clutch. I have not got the clutch thing in the pressure of racing down too well yet so plain manual it is for me. I have not noticed it in this mode and perhaps that is why others have not said much. It may be a small percentage of players that are doing that or they just have not been vocal about this yet. I actually hope Fanatec brings Back the auto clutch with a firmware update. Sad thing is Fanatec was the first to implement this and now nearly everyone has it but them. Oh well it gives me a something to wish for. Like I need another. LOL. It was stated on inside sim racing on their 2 hour live stream that if you have the car set to manual with clutch and never put it in gear or touch a pedal when the countdown timer gets to zero and all the cars go. You obviously didn’t move as you haven’t touched a pedal. However it will show 4% damage to the transmission without ever touching anything and that was in the full game. It will however probably be patched soon. There will be a few things to work on for them. This is where the demo helps them out so they can get an idea where the issues are and start a patch for them. Turn 10 is pretty good about the patches and listening to the community.
it sounds like OP may be over-braking or downshifting too fast. I am a TX + auto-clutch mode user as well and haven’t had that issue. the only time i get the stalling effect as described when downshifting is when my wheels are locked up.
are you on the v49 firmware?