Hello.
As the subject says, I’d appreciate it if someone could clarify why some cars are speed limited.
By this I mean if I make a D class car very powerful for example, I can only do 75mph in third gear or less.
It’s not only D class though, the same happened with my 2017 M Sport Fiesta just now, I removed the restrictors and it can only go 140mph give or take, even if I shorten the final drive in gear tuning.
Is this some kind of realism thing, or am I missing something?
If it’s the former, I really hope that it’s taken out of the new FM coming out, to me it doesn’t seem realistic at all.
Its likely your gearing. Shorten your final drive and youll be able to get significantly greater top speed
A stock M-Sport Fiesta has 375hp but a top speed of 144.1mph which doesn’t change much with increased horsepower because of the gearing, redline, and drag. Go to tuning, change the stock Final Drive gear from 3.40 to 2.30 and the top speed increases to 158.1 mph. Reduce the aero downforce to minimum and the top speed increases to 166.6 mph. That’s more than 20 mph difference with the same horsepower.
From there, increase the restrictor plate to 626 hp on those settings and the top speed increases to 196.3 mph. Upgrade the turbo to maximum and the top speed increases to 207.7 mph, and if you go back to tuning and adjust the top gear you can get it over 210.
If you have questions about other cars be sure to provide your exact upgrades and tuning settings so that other community members will be able to offer tips on how to get the best performance out of what you’re using. If you do encounter some issue with car speed behaving unexpectedly, try resetting your Assists to see if there’s an issue there. If something persists please post it in the Troubleshooting Hub section of the forums.
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I still get messed with when it comes to the transmission configurations – I am used to having the ability to set a final drive ratio through a rear differential with a specific gear set lol
Unsure of when to use the 6, 7, 8 9, 10… 25-speed transmission (kidding obvi lol) vs the drift transmission – like is there a common rule for class/horsepower for what transmission you would generally pair?
I can tune the udders off of a cow for suspension, but the gears… I struggle lol
Thanks for all the replies 
@T10ManteoMax, I will definitely give that a go now, but what about the cars where I’m stuck in third gear?
A good example is the peal trident, I stuck a motorbike engine in it along with race transition but couldn’t really go fast.
Also a little OT, but can someone describe the benefits of changing difs?
I usually stick race dif into anything that isn’t off-road or rally or drift, but I don’t know what it actually does or if I’m better leaving it stock for some cars.
As I said above, post your exact tuning settings and speeds so we can understand what “couldn’t really go fast” means.
When you have time, it would be great to see more replies like this from you. Awesome feedback!
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Isn’t it due to the way the engine is tuned irl? Often rally engines are tuned for low-end torque, at least that’s what I notice in Forza. Especially with the 1.6 Turbo Rally engine. It doesn’t do much at high rpms let alone in the red. I think cars with that engine are fastest when you short shift it.
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Which is kind of odd given the fact that it is both a turbo engine and DOHC, both which take some time to build into the powerband lol
Race dif is fine unless it’s specifically an offroad vehicle. Upgrading from stock allows you to adjust the settings, and the upgrade is always free. From my understanding, the various offerings other than stock simply have different presets. Hopefully @T10ManteoMax will correct me if I’m wrong.
Unless you’re capable of upgrading all parts including suspension and tires to handle the upgraded power, you’ll see the lower-tiered cars cap-out sooner than later. With your Peel Trident, I’m pretty sure there aren’t any tire compound upgrades or even tire width upgrades, which are 2 key ingredients needed to handle the additional power, which would explain not seeing much improvement in speeds or pace after a certain amount of upgrades. I’ve found that increasing rear wheel size helps a lot with the stability issues plagued by the Peel, so you may want to experiment with that as well.
While we’re on this topic: I’d like to know why, when you put low rear gears in a drag car, as in putting in 4:11’s. You don’t get any better hole shot coming off the line? Typically putting in low rear gears should give a car a quicker jump off the line, faster climb to top end, and a lower et. In this game all you get is a lower top speed (which I would expect) but nothing else. The drag racing aspect of this game is severely limited.
Kind of what I am iterating lol
I went from a 3.42 set of gears to a 4.10 in my personal car- I don’t think I knocked off that much top end, the needle still pegs at 155mph with some decent range left in the revs but I shift a butt-ton quicker 
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If this is a real life car you’re talking about, if you didn’t recalibrate your speedometer it’s probably not reflecting an accurate speed. There’s phone apps that should get pretty close for verifying the actual speed you’re going.
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Yezzir, everything was tuned in accordance with the gears – for apps I use Torque. I have to get my mullet mobile back up and running again, was trying to see inspect my timing to see if I would benefit an e85 swap or if I was wasting my money lol
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That’s cool, it’s electronically limited to 155? If so would be interesting to know before and after with that disabled.
Sorry for straying a bit off topic.
Nah, its not limited lol The numbers stop at 155mph but there is a “rest,” that the needle sits on once you peg it
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Anyone have a sec to check out an S1 1992 NSX-R tune I made?
Just looking for pointers on making it better! I have no problem providing any settings if you guys want to make your own and share it with me either lol
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