I cant link you to WMD can I? and even if I did, you wouldnt be able to read the link.
You can find all the same posts as I can on GTP, race department etc.
heres some posts seeing as you must be starting to think Im just making stuff up for the sake of it.
“This is the second time I have this issue with the base… Very annoying. I have recorded a video they can see, but the time I will have againg without a wheel is not the way it should be with a now 750euro pricetag… We are sure getting close to Accuforce territory indeed price wise…”
updated:
"I have been in contact with Fanatec support today, and the end result is they will give me a new V2 base. Just wanted to let you guys know "
“hello guy’s ,
the fan on the left side of the csw v2 don’t work when i play, so im wondering if is whit pcars that i have a problem or the wheel.
-start the wheel fan running then stop.
-start the game fan almost never run.“gonna do some test”
-sometime the wheel act like is off for 1/3 sec, then come back.”
You don’t even own a freaking wheel yet continue to argue with people about them because you go to some shop.
Every single Clubsport v1 had a faulty motor in and so did the Elites. Thomas stated it was a faulty “first batch” of wheels on GTPlanet in public in all wheels yet they continued to come in such poor quality one of the promises of the v2 now out was better motors. Guess what they don’t have? Better motors.
I know because I owned SIX of them. Yes SIX and had three other repairs. My 911 GT3 also had two repair orders because the motor’s overheat and the PCB’s burn up because of a faulty design where the exhaust was on the bottom of the wheel…you know, where you bolt it to a solid surface. I know this because I’ve spent hours on the phone talking to the support team.
If you want proof here is 104 pages concerning mods for the CSW and Elite. The last bit explains how people are having v2’s break and others afraid to even use them and listing them on ebay straight away because the modded wheel with only a motor mod is so superior. The motors from Fanatec cost about 5 bucks, they come from an RC car.
So to sum it up, you don’t have a wheel but have used them and you argue with multiple people who do. I imagine you will argue with those 104 pages so here is some more so we don’t have to see it for a while.
My experience with the CSR, the wheel has been excellent. I did not keep the FFB on high, even when it was common advice around here to set the wheel to 100% and dial back the game’s FFB output. It made sense to do it the other way around. Set the game’s output to 100% and set the wheel where you felt comfortable driving it. To this day, the CSR hasn’t given me any problems. I’d gladly take the plunge on a CSW setup if I had the coin.
Dust, what prices are you using with the comparison quote between the Accuforce and the CSW V2? Is that the Australia prices? If so then you guys are getting robbed at those prices. No wonder you feel that the CSW is close enough to an Accuforce in Prices.
For me a full Club Sport setup would cost $1600.00 USD. Before taxes and shipping.
$600 - CSW V2 base.
$400 - Porsche 918 rim or Xbone Unihub with what ever rim I want.
$300 - CSP V2
$200 - CSS SQ
$100 - CS Hand Brake.
The Accuforce plug and play wheel base and rim costs $1750.00 USD before taxes and shipping.
I still would have to buy a set of pedals to go with it, and a shifter…
With the prices you’ve quoted, one would consider the Accuforce. But you also wrote that the current price you’d pay for the Accuforce is $3000 AUD. In your circumstance, any FFB wheel is a senseless buy, not just the Fanatec.
Maybe I am looking at the wrong place on the site? I’m getting the prices at the main screen, where you can hover your pointer above “products” and see prices with the products. Clicking the CSW base, gives me a lower (and unobtainable) price. Are those the same prices you are quoting?
I figured that, but I could have sworn Dust wrote that was what he sees for US prices.
The prices that Australia pays is upsetting. Despite the exchange rate, they should not have to pay astronomically high prices for import taxes. I get that the money spent on any wheel is ridiculous there. But that isn’t the norm for everyone else. Dust never added a qualifier to say that was his position. So I assumed he was generalizing for everyone. That’s why I was confused with his notion that the Accuforce was spitting distance from the CSW with just a wheel rim. I caught on, but wanted to be absolutely sure that he’s meaning Australian prices. That’s why I pressed on.
Not stoking the flames or anything, just wanted to understand where Dust was coming from.
I dont know how Dust got the AUD prices, but its really just about 400 apart if you base the calculation on european prices. The recent EUR price increase was just insane and the accuforce plays in a completely different league. The difference should be about 1000 and not 400. Now their only selling point is its full compatiblity with all 3 major platforms (PC/XBO/PS4), which has been announced juuuust before the price increase but in every other aspect it cant compete with an accuforce pro
As far as i know, the prices of the US shop have remained untouched, they are much better positioned in this region
Ok, ok, fine. I get it. Ok. The sole reason why I continue with this stubbornness is that some people never had a single issue while others are plagued with them (some are in the links you posted). If all motors are faulty they should eventually give in right?
Not only that but I own a first batch CSR and I´ve never had an issue with it, and I run full FFB on FM4. Even with the Microsoft one I´ve never ran into any problems, at all, and I used that thing everyday for 5 years.
Either I´m very lucky or you are very unlucky, but ok, fine. I´ve heard you story before and honestly I understand you frustation. I would have done the same as you and I can see some actual problems that are design related.
Regarding the shop, I only use as an example to justify some of the problems. I´ve seen adults and kids treat the wheels as complete, well, I don´t even know what to say really. Forcing the wheel to go past the designated wheel rotation like crazy, putting full power on the driver because it feels more “realistic”, pushing the rim down like they are getting water from a well and they still work. That thing is a freaking tank (T500RS).
The CSR and CSR Elite are two different wheels. The Elite and the CSW v1 are the same wheel internally. The CSR is just a 911 wheel in a different case with different PCB’s. They still break and burn up as well. Hell the CSR’s had major issues on release, especially in the firmware for them so to say you have a first batch and never had a problem is a bit off on either the first batch or the problem side of things.
The firmware that came on the first batch made that whining noise and wouldn’t save any settings, it also had a notchy feeling in the wheel just like the 911’s did. The 706 firmware fixed that but then the 737 came and was bugged out. Putting full power on the wheel shouldn’t be an issue, if the wheel can’t handle it then it shouldn’t be on there in the first place. I also had a CSR…I beta tested firmware’s for them after being in the review program for the Elite.
The Thrustmasters also aren’t tanks, multiple forum members got wheels with major issues and quite a few were DoA. There are also countless mods for those to improve them but the Thrustmaster is harder to fix because of the way it is arranged inside the case.
The wheels are awesome when they work, they just don’t work enough.
My wheel had the 701 (I think) which made that whine. I then installed the 706 which was recommended by them (I received an email) and never had an issue ever since. Keep in my mind that I still have the 706 version because the newer firmware versions were always “Beta” (apparently) and I decided not to take a chance. I don´t know, it could be related.
Regarding Thrustmaster, I used “tanks” to describe what I see and experience. Obviously, some of them are already faulty from factory, but that can happen with any product. I just don´t think anyone should generalize that T500RSs (for example) break all the time when that is, apparently, not true, specially when we don´t know what percentage of owners report on the Internet that their wheel is working fine.
That leaves to another point. I keep talking about these things because I can´t freaking decide. Some say they are good, others say they are terrible, then they are unrealiable, then the other day they are. This is just like choosing a car and I have a Fiat (which has given me very little issues).
We shouldnt forget that FFB wheels have to cope with strong forces, but TM and Fanatec really need to up their production QA, especially in this price range. Just the fact that some TM’s went up in smoke within the first minutes of usage and some were even DOA leads me to the conclusion that they dont even bother to run every unit through a proper function test before its being boxed and distributed. Thats something i would expect from a premium priced product. I havent had a single issue with my TM458 setup, but i understand everyone who’s mad with TM and their production quality
And dot get me started on the Fanatecs…the FFB motor is one of the most important and (as you’d expect…) most expensive parts in a wheel. Thats one reason why they are asking for a premium price…but that doesnt hinder Fanatec to put cheap mabuchis into their “premium” wheels (you can get them for even 2.50$ if bought in hundreds). I dont know if they installed better motors in a later batch, but it was still a rip-off.
As a comparison: the high torque servo motor of an accuforce wheel is about 300$ and it requires an amplifier that has enough power to support such high torque, which will net another ~400-500 bucks (or even more). Thats about 800 USD just for the motor. Even though these costs can be lowered by ordering higher amounts, it still puts their asking price of 1700 USD into another light. Especially compared to fanatecs pricing
In a previous post you mentioned that the V2 seem to have rather bad motors too, are they still going cheap on this one?
Like I’ve stated in a previous post, I bought a TX, had it break, got another base from TM and it worked great up until I sold it. About a month ago, I got an itch for a wheel again and thought I’d just get the 458 Spider wheel for now until I see what Fanatec offers later this year. At the very least, more wheels on the market are better for everyone and the increased competition might make TM lower the price more on the TX because, face it, it isn’t worth $400, but they are getting closer by dropping it by $100. If they decide to drop it another $50, then I might pick one up again.
I hear you. Actually at the current Amazon price of $293.00, the TX has become an option for me; even with the problems I will have with the wheel. I am a patient man, and I can deal with returns/exchanges and the down time that comes with sifting through bad wheels, in order to finally get a working wheel. I did this with the 360 (sent for a replacement 2 times), I can do it again. If they drop the price another $50, I too would be buying one and not waiting to see what Fanatec does. Although the possibility of their next mid market wheel making use of their quick release sounds interesting.
I can see myself getting a TX, and eventually getting the T3PA-Pro, a Ricmotech load cell mod and the TH8A. With Fanatec, after getting a replacement to the CSR, I would just need to get a shifter, and eventually get the CSP’s.
So I’ll wait, but if the TX hit’s $243.00, I’m in.
Hmm, so you are willing to shelve out 170 USD just to get a loadcell mod, even though the T3PA Pro comes with a rubber cone mod (which feels almost the same, and is more durable) and at the same time you see the difference of about 400 between a CSWv2 and a direct drive wheel as “a lot of money”?
And I never said there was a $400 difference between the CSW and the Accuforce. It’s a $750 difference. I’m the one who wrote that you can buy a complete Clubsport package for the price of the Accuforce wheel base alone. Remember the $1600 estimate I wrote up?
Also, did you directly compare the feel of the Ricmotech load cell mod to the conical bumper on the T3PA-Pro’s, or are you relying on someone else’s opinion?
I was using my CSP’s with my G27 when I got it. My load cell played up. I choose to grab some very stiff packing foam from a server chassis box and stuffed that inside the spring of the G27 brake pedal…
but in every other aspect it cant compete with an accuforce pro