Finally 100%'d the game. Now I’m trying to set up a garage for the best cars in each class then tune them to perfection.
What are the general best cars in each class once upgraded to their corresponding PI?
I see the Veneno is an S2 beast and the F50 seems to be the S1 beast. Any more?
Really depends on the race. I’ve been sticking with awd rally builds online in the upper classes simply because most road trips have at least 1or 2 offroad races or events.
That list should be easy enough to compile if you look at the Festival Route leaderboards under Rivals.
I don’t really think there is any “best car” for any class. Some players perform and control certain vehicles better than others, and other players can tune any car to master all at any course. And a lot of it depends on a lot of factors.
100% the game already? You mean by achievements or just in-game? Wow!
I like the Abarth 595 in S1 or S2 for Playground games.
The F50 is a great car and will always be a beast.
The Ultima or the McLaren P1 are pretty wicked in X Class.
I think players should appreciate Classic Racers more.
Not just because they are legendary, but the fact that the Ferrari 330 P4 can outperform a lot of cars from the get-go and the Birdcage will somehow give you a nosebleed in real life with how the car takes off with the accelerator down.
I like the rare classics quite a bit. I just don’t believe that (in my hands) they would be top leaderboard material.
What are the best cars in each class??
What are the best cars in each class??
Any car that is built and tuned properly.
Everyone will have a different opinion as to what is the best in class
My s2 is the Lamborghini Huracán and my X is the hated Bugatti veyron, I love her in pink!
Depends what you wanna do, in what class, your driving style, and so on. Keeping in mind I don’t tune except maybe light gearing work, I only upgrade, here’s some of my favourites from my garage.
'88 Scirocco: D Class all-purpose
'69 Charger: C Class offroad/mixed
'60 C1 Vette: B Class all-purpose (engine swap)
'73 Trans Am: B Class dragster
Ferrari F355: A Class tarmac
Celica GT4: A Class offroad/mixed (tuned gears)
HOW I BUILD
Upgrade for handing (tires, suspension, roll bars, perhaps weight reduction), and always install sport transmission+race clutch in a muscle car, before you touch the engine. When you do look under the hood, always start with camshaft and displacement upgrades, followed by exhaust and valves. Squeeze the last few P.I. points in with minor engine upgrades, brakes, driveshafts and rims.
Give these cars a try built like so. Others can tell you more in depth stuff about tuning, different builds and such, but I do quite well with what I’ve described here.
B Wald
Weight reduction is generally a better use of PI over tire upgrades, especially in heavier muscle cars or anything AWD; but it works best when keeping the vehicle it its native class or taking it 1 class higher at most, so a C class car upgraded to A class would probably require at least a street level tire upgrade to be manageable without assists.
Race clutch or any clutch upgrade is a waste of PI if you are using manual w/ clutch.
Camshafts should be one of the last things you touch, unless you are making a pure power build and want that extra top end.
In my.opinion tyre compound is not needed in A class ever.
Ford Escort RS1800
Ford Escort RS Cosworth
Toyota GT86
All hold top tens in A class on stock tyre compound in cross country.
AWD is the key in my opinion.
I recently did a build with a 1995 Toyota MR2 for B class and its a blast to drive. Horizon 2 is so fun, Enjoying the game a lot! Here is a picture of the MR2:
The only time I really use AWD is online. I rather put the PI towards making the car lighter or adding power.
I have #1’s on some cross country event in San Giovanni in a nearly stock 427 Cobra and a power-build GT40. And yes, I wallrode the whole race.
Shame on you then, if you were serious about wallriding ¦:(
Anyway, re: building a musclecar. Weight reduction is good, but I don’t usually do it. Reason being, I build my cars primarily for online play, not hotlapping, so I get my handling in other ways. The heft of an unlightened musclecar and the grip of a nice fat set of tyres put you in a good spot when the hits come in. My massive Pontiac GTO has surprised many a wrecker when their little Honda or whatever simply bounced off me.
I’ll admit though, they’re USELESS in playground games. Not nimble enough, and too large a target. That’s what the wee cars are for 
Any car can be fast as long as you tune it right and choose your car in consideration with the road you will be racing on.
I personally always go with RWD cars with only a couple of exceptions. They can make the leader boards as well when tuned/driven properly. The key is weight reduction: a lighter car will always be more flexible and maneuverable then a heavier car which is all the more important when racing on the tight roads of Horizon. ^.^
In summary, when tuning a RWD car:
Always go with as much weight reduction as possible,
As much engine block/cam upgrades as possible,
A 2-way differential,
A race drive-line,
SUPER lightweight rims, (The lighter, the better)
Fully upgraded rear tire width,
Restrained front tire-width upgrades, (Too much front-tire width will cause bad understeer)
Stock front anti-roll bars,
Race rear anti-roll bars,
A race transmission,
And a race flywheel.
Then, you add power. =P
If you do not, you’ll find it quite difficult to win with RWD. ^.^
Why cams?
Why flywheel?
Why stock front arbs? I did this in fh1 due to no tuning. With tuning now I prefer tuned front and rear arbs.
Why race transmission when many other transmissions are fine and cost less pi
Why not leave the driveline until you see if you have 1 or 2 pi to spend at the end.
My questions are not meant to imply you are wrong but they are areas where I believe a lot of top forza builders/tuners would provide different advice.
PS were you the guy in fh who was a speed drifter?
It’s quite alright. Not many people actually know about what what truly makes a RWD car tick on Horizon. I’ve actually been working on a Horizon Racing Guide for some time now. I’ll rip off some bits from it dedicated to modifications for everyone to see. That should answer all of your questions and then some. =D
(Please note: This guide was intended for Horizon #1. And so, some examples won’t be exactly accurate. For example, the points certain upgrades cost. HOWEVER, Horizon 1 and Horizon 2 are almost exactly the same in terms of upgrading parts. And so, this guide will indeed be helpful to those wishing to use it in Horizon 2. ^.^)
Camshaft/Rotors: This upgrade is THE most important upgrade you can take advantage of if you plan on drifting at all. The reason why however, is a bit complicated:
On the face of it, this upgrade will allow your engine to rev higher while offering a noticeable boost in top-speed BUT, that is just scratching the surface! This upgrade also offers a secret and surprising side effect for drifters!
It is because of one simple line of logic:
When you drift, you’re often “red-lining” your engine.
Allot of drifters tend to over-look this upgrade. They think that they can drift just fine by not upgrading the cams/rotors and revving far into the “red zone” of your tachometer like common practice in real life, but that is a false thought in the world of Horizon. I’ve extensively tested cars with the cams/rotors upgraded and downgraded and there is only one conclusion I can come to: You just cannot transfer your momentum very well during a drift without upgrading the cams/rotors as much it will allow for the car class!
Here is the phenomenon that happens with the camshaft/rotor upgrade:
Let’s use an S-class Lexus LFA for this example. It starts off about in the middle of S and R3 class, so there is not much room for improvement. After adding all the important handling upgrades, we now only have enough room to either upgrade the cams or the displacement. Now, upgrading the displacement is the usual way to go because you get allot more torque but if you try to drift with the displacement upgraded instead of the cams, it will lose a great deal of momentum in the corners because it just simply cannot rev smoothly at the high RPMs required to drift without the upgraded cams!
The game says it itself in the description of the part: “Upgraded cams let your engine breathe more freely and rev to higher rpm, giving you much more power. The result is a car that doesn’t lose power when you hammer the revs.”
Flywheel: This upgrade basically makes your flywheel lighter. What that means is your engine will be more responsive, and won’t bog down so easily! It is 100% worth the points needed to use this upgrade because it will allow your engine to plant more power down onto the road. The reason why is because of inertia: The law of inertia states that more work is required to move a heavier object. As a result, a RWD car loses allot of punch in the corners because the engine is using most all of it’s power just to spin the flywheel! On cars that have less power/distribute their power better, it is not necessary to upgrade the flywheel, bit on FWD and RWD cars that require delicate and nimble maneuvering, the lightweight flywheel makes ALL the difference! ^.~
I personally always try to upgrade my flywheel as much as possible unless the points would better spent elsewhere (in a C-class or below/an AWD car for example). This upgrade costs a considerable amount of points to add on but I still always go for the sport flywheel upgrade at the very least with the only exceptions being my S-class Evo 6 and my D-class cars.
Front/Rear Anti-Roll Bars: These upgrades are a bit odd really. Lots of people have their own preferences as to how they should be setup. I’ll tell you my preferences, but it is best to experiment around with different setups to figure out which is best for your driving style. Also, keep in mind that your roll-bar setup will be dictated entirely by the drivetrain of your vehicle. (AWD/RWD/FF)
Here is how I like to setup my anti-roll bars:
For FWD Vehicles (FF): I prefer to upgrade the front anti-roll bars and leave the rear stock. This stiffens the front of the car, allowing the front wheels to slide around a bit instead of catching too much grip and understeering into the wall. Leaving the rear stock also makes it fairly loose, allowing me to kick out the rear-end with the E-brake to further correct understeer and transition weight. Leaving the rear stock will also allow the car to right itself more smoothly after locking up the rear wheels with the brakes/E-brake. This means the car will be less prone to forcefully “snap” back into line and into the wall after initiating a powerslide.
For RWD Vehicles (MR/FR): I prefer to upgrade the rear anti-roll bars and leave the front stock. This stiffens the rear end, allowing the rear wheels to slide around more smoothly and transfer momentum through corners more effectively. On the other hand, leaving the front-end stock allows for smoother corrections and counter steering without having to worry too much about “overcorrecting”, meaning that the car will drift smoothly and won’t forcefully “snap” itself back into line after regaining traction. Combine these two effects, and you’ll end up with a car that is exceptionally forgiving when pushed hard, allowing you to really push the car and yourself to the limit!
For AWD Vehicles (AWD/4WD): I prefer to upgrade the front a tiny bit to “sport”, and then upgrade the rear 100% to “race”. What this dose is it allows the car to 4WD drift like a WRC Rally Car! Like the RWD anti-roll bar setup, leaving the front a tiny bit loose allows for smooth corrections and counter steering but because this car is AWD, it requires a bit of stiffening for the front-drive. This makes the car much more forgiving and less prone to overcorrection. On the other hand, stiffening up the rear end all the way allows the car’s rear end to kick out a tiny bit, enabling the driver to cure understeer via corrective oversteer and 4-wheel drift through corners (like a WRC rally car). These two upgrades, when put together on an AWD car allows the vehicle to transfer more power and momentum through corners making it a mean dogfighter.
Regarding how much you should upgrade the roll bars in the front on a FWD car and in the rear of a RWD car, I always try to upgrade them 100%. (race bars) However, it is ok to downgrade them a bit (to sport) when you need to subtract some points towards your overall tune to make a car usable in a specific class of car. For example, you need to tune your car to A-Class (600) but the tune points you ended up with is 601. You can try downgrading the roll bars a tiny bit to make the points an even 600 in order to qualify it to be entered in A-Class online races. That being said, some cars only have one upgrade for these anti-roll bars. If this is the case, don’t try to use them to lower your points.
Transmission: Tranny upgrades, unlike clutch upgrades are a bit more complicated. Said in a sentence: if you need to make your gear changes faster, go for the clutch upgrade but if your car is in need of a better gear ratio, then you need to upgrade the transmission.
Upgrading the transmission will have an effect on your gear ratios. For example, An AE86 with a stock transmission will top out in first gear at 35 MPH. If you upgrade the transmission a bit though, you can increase that to 38mph and if you give it a race transmission, it‘ll go from 0-60mph in one gear! This will also greatly improve your launch (Regardless of the “launch” readout in your cars description)
This upgrade is great to use if you’re feeling like your car is losing power in the corners. When the ratios force the need to upshift, but if you shift up you’ll lose power and die out in the corner and get passed. Situations like that. OR if you’re losing power when up-shifting in an under-powered car. Just generally if you feel your gear ratios aren’t doing your car justice, you can use this upgrade the transmission to mend the problem.
Upgrading the tranny will allow you to put more power down in the corners just simply because the ratio is better! Instead of topping out at 65mph in second gear, it’ll top out at 85 allowing you to stay on the power in second gear without needing to shift up! Now, in an AWD car, that isn’t necessary because you can just power out. That is not possible n a RWD or FWD car however. And so, tranny upgrades are required.
That being said, there are a few downsides. First of all, upgrading the transmission will more often than not cost more points to add onto your vehicle than just upgrading the clutch. So if you just need to make your gear changes quicker, it is best to just upgrade the clutch.
Last but not least, there is one more secret that transmission upgrades offer:
It doesn’t happen very often but if you pay attention to how much points the transmission costs to upgrade, you will sometimes notice that upgrading the transmission will actually cost no points, if not reduce points towards your overall tune despite all the positive effects that upgrading it gives you! I find that this happens particularly in FWD and lower-class cars that has had parts added to the engine. If you see this happen, jump on the chance to upgrade it as you can then spend the points you would of spent on your gears on power instead!
Just pay attention to your transmission as you upgrade your engine and you will notice this happen every once in a while depending on the car. Make sure to keep an close eye on your gear ratios as well! Watch to see if your low-cost gearbox is doing your car more harm then justice. ^.~
Driveline: The driveline is another commonly overlooked upgrade. It doesn’t require too much thought. Basically, this upgrade makes your driveshaft lighter. What this means is the engine doesn’t have to work so hard to turn the wheels (Just like the Flywheel), and that results in a more responsive engine that won’t bog down when being pushed hard.
This part should be upgraded all the way, 100% of the time regardless of the car/class you choose. It really doesn’t cost many points, so there really is no excuse not to use it. This really is a part that you upgrade without forethought. Just upgrade it and move on. ^.^
I hope that helps everyone out! xD
-PS, Yes, I am that speed drifter. I don’t like to brag about it though. Not enough people understand RWD cars enough to truly comprehend the logic that supports speed drifting. I do remember racing with you as well. You where a very fast and clean racer! I enjoyed racing with you on many different occasions. ^.^ I hope to see you in Horizon 2 as well! xD