It’s just me or AWD cars are quite a pain to drive? I’ve try some tutorial on youtube about fine tuning but I don’t go anywhere: I got horrible problems in slow turn both using a gamepad or wheel. I got no big issue with RWD or FWD cars but AWD are a pain in the a*s. Any advice for fine tuning this kid of cars?
It depends who you ask I guess and the car of course.
You can try softening springs (front/all), dampers, lowering front / raising rear ARB value, lowering anti-dive, add maybe more front camber, set your diffs for easier turning, change front/rear ride height, but yeah…
There might also be other issues depending on what AWD car you’re tuning and to what level. Haldex?
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It’s a bit odd. I find AWD cars really nice and predictable to drive, unfortunately their acceleration once on the move is lacking severely. It’s as if Turn 10 thought AWD cars have the Cx of a Maersk container.
I usually find myself using pretty aggressive ARB settings (think minimum front/maximum rear), a rearward power bias (around 85% to the rear more or less), and some serious fidgeting with the dampers and toe settings. This might not apply to all AWD cars, but it’s what I usually end up doing for most of them.
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Have you tried tuning TT RS to A class? It’s “interesting”. I have tried to keep the car looking stock (no aero etc., only wheels), use its own 2.5 engine and same tyre width front / rear. All the tunes I have made for it feel either bad, awful, undrivable, or worse.
#challenge
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Ive managed to get some pretty decent awd tunes. Im not sure what the common denominator is between them but if im on later ill post their values.
Usually slow turn in can be countered by:
Increase front tyre psi and decrease rear tyre psi
Too soft of springs will cause slow turn in
You can toe out on front and toe in on rear to give better turn in
Try one or all of these as see if it makes a difference
I’ll play around with it once the AI learns to enjoy and appreciate the stock handling characteristics for a couple hours 
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Tnx all, I’ll give it a try. Gotta some headchace with the Delta HF
If u struggle with tuning your car, try ForzaTune on android (I don’t know if theres an apple version). It helped me several times when I got stuck with a car.
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What I usually do is no diff lock in the front, and balance around 80% to 90% to the rear, then you just have to adjust the lock in the back until you have a good balance of over/understeer.
You can also start with 100% balance to the rear and then bit for bit push it to the front until you get understeer.
2018 Audi TT RS - A Class @jaan7876
| Specs | |
|---|---|
| Engine | 2.5L I5-T |
| Power | 422 HP |
| Torque | 379 LB-FT |
| Weight | 3,337 LBS |
| Weight Distribution | 60.5F/39.5R |
| Power/Weight Ratio | 0.127 HP/LB |
Upgrades
| Tires/Wheels | Platform and Handling | Drivetrain | Engine Upgrades | Misc |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Street Tire Compound | Brakes left stock | Race transmission | Race air filter | No aero upgrades |
| 285mm front tires / 255mm rear tires | Sport Chassis Reinforcement | Race differential | Sport valves | No conversions |
| Rims/rims size left stock | No ballast | Stock clutch | Everything else left stock | |
| Race front, rear anti-roll bars | Stock driveline | |||
| Race springs & dampers | ||||
| No weight reduction |
Tuning
| Gearing | Ratio |
|---|---|
| Final Drive | 4.15 |
| 1st | 2.50 |
| 2nd | 1.69 |
| 3rd | 1.26 |
| 4th | 0.97 |
| 5th | 0.79 |
| 6th | 0.70 |
| 7th | 0.66 |
| Tire Pressure | Alignment | Anti-Roll Bars & Springs | Damping | Brakes | Differential | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front: 35.5 | Camber F: -2.5 degrees | ARB F: 1.00 (minimum) | Bump F: 3.1 | Braking Balance: 50% | Front Accel: 10% | |
| Rear: 32.5 | Camber R: -1.8 degrees | ARB R: 40.00 (maximum) | Bump R: 4.0 | Brake Pressure: Preference | Front Decel: 0% | |
| Toe F: 0.3 degrees | Spring Rate F: 800 lb/in | Rebound F: 7.2 | Rear Accel: 70% | |||
| Toe R: 0.0 degrees | Spring Rate R: 700 lb/in | Rebound R: 8.5 | Rear Decel: 20% | |||
| Caster: 5.0 degrees | Ride Height F: 6.3 | Balance: 95% (rear) | ||||
| Zero out suspension geometry | Ride Height R: 6.5 |
So it’s still far from being a polished build + tune; it’s still got some wonkiness to it. I’m just throwing it out here so you would have time to take it out for a spin in multiplayer or free play.
And of course if anybody else wants to chip in on the build, feel free to do so… Let’s crowd-source an A-Class Audi TT RS 
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Pretty wild ARB values… 
Toe is positive?
I would make the rears stiffer if I could, even with the values cranked like that it doesn’t quite handle like I want it to. Also the reason why the front tire widths are wider than the rear. 
And yeah, positive toe (toe out) up front
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The biggest problem that VAG group cars like TTRS, RS3, Golf 8R 7.5R 7R have, in these last 3 the handling is identical. When the 8r is completely new, its rear differential is much more fun and agile than the 7r. The thing is that Forza come with a predefined setup of almost 100% front traction. when their real distribution is usually 70-30 60-40. Anyway, in this Forza it is no longer just in the Vag group, it is in general that those cars feel clumsy. when really an evo a golf r a ttrs gtr in some classes should be a machine that should destroy the competition… but well forza didn’t want it that way. Better to have an exocet, an MX5 OP and things like that. and then they want to pass me off as a future simulator
I end up swapping most AWD cars to RWD. It always decreases weight by an unrealistic ~100-110kg and over a certain power/grip ratio it also decreases PI.
Most of them need extensive fine-tuning after it though but they are always superior.
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Yeah it’s quite the understeer fest in stock form. If you still feel there’s too much understeer you can amplify ARB effect by dropping front and/or raising rear anti-geometry points. I personally rather go that route since I have an issue with different width f/r tyres in AWD cars but that’s just me. 
That tune sounds interesting though. I might go to Lime Rock and see how it’s time compares to my tunes, I just need to convert it to metric units first. Thanks for sharing it. 
Yes, they are in my opinion incorrect in the latest FM. In GT’s I’ve played, Haldex cars are usually considered 50-50 since it’s basicly the only way to get the handling oversteer characterics right.
There’s actually a troubleshooting topic for this issue named “Cars - Some AWD Haldex cars behave like FWD”.
Some Haldex cars, like Audi TT RS have the right 50-50 torque split already. Why some others dont, I don’t know to be honest. An error maybe.
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It seems the values in metric units are:
Tire pressure:
F: 2.45 bar
R: 2.24 bar
Spring rate:
F: 14.32 kgf/mm *set to 143.2
R: 12.53 kgf/mm *set to 125.3
*due to error in Forza spring rates
Ride height:
F: 16.0 cm
R: 16.5 cm
[edit]
I tested the tune in Lime Rock full circuit and ran my typical 10 lap test with a full tank / no tyre wear.
My best lap was 56.202, pretty good time for TT with me driving. Car would’ve been even quicker but I tend to lose it before the bridge. Surprisingly agile thing considering the weight distribution. A bit snappy though so it might not be the best option for me in multiplayer, I don’t want to go bowling on T1. 
I might have an idea though what to do with it next but need to drive some more laps first…
For comparison purposes it would be interesting to know what kind of times others get with the same tune / rules?
I built the car around Watkins Glen, so it probably won’t be too brilliant on more grippy tracks. I can maybe see about creating an alternative grippier build when I have some free time though
I actually made a new personal TT record for the track today. After some testing I thought I try to remove some weight from the car while keeping the tune values and got 55.869 time.
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