Shout out to trizzydizzy from reddit for the info. ive been using these factors as base tunes and its worked wonders. Anyone have success with a similar formula for a base tune? It makes it very simple/removes guess work however nothing is proven until you hit the track, but its worked for me. You basically just soften suspension/antiroll bars until you get desired turn in effect.
Gear Ratio: vary from track to track; the 0-60/120 and top speed measurements aren’t always relevant landmarks to tune for. The goal is to minimize shifts, while still staying in the peak of your power band. Lower the ratio if you’re having to shift too soon before many turns. Raise the ratio if you feel like the car bogs down into each up shift, just as long as it doesn’t make you need to add another shift to each straight section.
Camber: -2.5 to -3.5 in the front; -1.5 to -2.5 in the rear. This might seem unrealistic, but that’s because it is. Tire wear isn’t real life accruate, so you can abuse that and it won’t unnaturally and quickly wear your tires. It also results in even tire temps which is the tell-tale sign of ideal camber settings. This is a very significant setting to adjust.
Toe: 1 to 4mm front; -1 to -2mm rear. This gives enough turn in speed, without making it too twitchy or too much like driving a cinder block. If it’s twitchy, lower the front closer to zero. Rear only ever needs lower if the car seems very erratic in straight lines at high speed (ie classic cars with lots of power come to mind).
Caster: 4.5 to 5.5. Set it higher with slower tracks with lots of small radius turns; think nimbleness. Set it lower for higher speed tracks with long, wide radius turns; think high speed precision.
Spring Rate: 10-25% increase to stock’s settings, both front and rear. This can change as your weight distribution does with different mods (power vs handling). You can get to really stiff setting due to the low bump settings discussed later.
Ride Height: Second setting from the bottom is been always safe for me. Ideally this is as low as possible without “bottoming out”. Bottoming out isn’t that devistating in the game, unless you’re on part of the road you aren’t supposed to be on. If tuning for Nordschleife, give yourself another +1 or +2 to ride height. The track elevation changes are pretty frequent to need it and avoid some of the random oversteer you occasionally get
Anti Roll Bars: Increase front and rear by about 10%. If the car understeers, reduce it by half that amount, incrementally, until it feels correct. If it oversteers, you can reduce the rears in the same way, but usually oversteer comes from other factors. You have to feel how the car’s weight shifts from braking into a turn, in the turn, then accelerating out of it. It’s a bit tougher because you can’t adjust the flex in and out independently like you can with dampers and springs.
Rebound: 9.0 to 10.5 on the front, 8.0 to 9.5 on the rear. This tightens turn in and reduces oversteer. If you understeer, reduce fronts slightly; if you oversteer, reduce rears. Quicker rebound is generally better to better predict weight transfer in to turns. If you notice problems with the handling and you’re driving on intended track, then reduce the settings slightly until you feel consistent.
Bump: 2.5 to 4.0 front; 2.0 to 3.0 rear. This is another unrealistic setting. Like I said earlier, bottoming out isn’t that devastating unless you’re driving where you shouldn’t. This soft bump setting is why you can run such high spring stiffness and quick rebound without worrying too much about oversteer or understeer.
Downforce: Max out cornering. Start from there, reduce to speed dependent on track. Remember, aero won’t help at low speeds. So tracks with short corners and long straights (Sarthe, Long Beach) will get more benefit from low aero settings. Long, wide radius (Alps, Prague) turns get more benefit out of higher aero settings.
Brakes: preference whether you trail brake or early brake. Rear bias is trail, front bias is early. I run 95% brake force for some reason I have no good explanation for. I also prefer early braking because it’s more consistent, but trailing is generally faster if you don’t mess it up.
LSD Settings: drive the car with the above settings before adjusting LSD. The LSD can be fine tuned, but it can also be used as a crutch for consistency. That’s fine, some cars need it. And you won’t know it until your drive it first. If you need more info than the below on tuning LSDs, check this other post of mine out so you know what you’re looking for.
LSD Accel: 65-90%, higher the more horsepower you have. This can be preference based on how well you control throttle too. If you’re too binary with throttle and not gradual, you can handicap it with higher settings. It’s better to learn your throttle control and not use it as a crutch, or your car will bog down some like TCS often does.
LSD Decel: 15-40%. This is mostly about feeling and braking style, but I’ll lower it with heavy cars that seem to slide when I brake into turns. If you brake or let off the gas and it breaks from under you, lower it a little to keep it more predictable, but it might not fix it entirely. Again, this can be used as a crutch if you have poor throttle control when letting off the gas and not braking.
All this culminates to a car that understeers, but consistently stays planted to the ground. Understeer is preferred because the car is more predictable. Predictable makes for consistent times. Consistent times allow you to better measure the improvements in your driving. Remember, if you get faster and you don’t know why, then you can’t apply that knowledge to the next car/track.
Let me know what you think! Good racing!