As an avid FM4 & FM5 drifter & racer i have opted for my 2nd wheel which arrives @ some point today…
Well so it go’s i have only ever had one wheel which was for FM 4 on 360 needless to say (budget wheel @ best) no FFB or vibration, was also a thrustmaster 458 wheel.
I really REALLY loved it and well with the obvious factor of having bought a quite expensive XB1, a budget wheel didnt seem quite right hence i have forked for the Pro Race Wheel from thrustmster.
Now then let the games begin…
Asides the obvious calibrations i have read about and so forth, are there any in game options i need to focus on to help me get the edge on driving / racing in game such as dead zones etc.
And who would be willing to race with me to help me on my learning curb and have some fun while i get to gripps with it ?
Dead-zones are pretty simple, just set everything to 0 (you can leave dead-zone for clutch if you don’t use manual clutch or a clutch pedal). Thats how most ppl run their wheel setup. Vibration/Rumble strength can be set to your own preference, however the FF strength setting might require some more testing to find a value that fits you. While its also a matter of own preference i suggest to set the FF strength to a point where you can still drive smoothly and don’t get tired on longer races. It also depends on the car you use, so you might end up with more than one FF setting.
As i don’t drift, i can’t tell you if drifting requires different dead-zone settings.
And don’t forget to play around with the settings that can be adjusted directly on the wheel, these settings can be changed on the fly, even during the race. The following can be set (make sure you are on most recent firmware v47, otherwise you wont have sensitivity setting and auto clutch):
DOR (270,360,520,900) mode button + dpad left/right
Sensitivity (4 levels) mode button + left/right paddle shifter
Auto Clutch (make sure you set manual clutch in forza assists. Also the clutch button needs to be on A, check your controller mapping) mode + A button
For example i run S-Class cars with DOR 520 and Sensivity setting on 2. Try around until you find a comfortable setting.
Send me a friend request, i’ll follow back. Happy to race with you, you will find me in the S-class endurance hoppers (dont have any proper setups for lower classes, haha)
I have both a TX wheel and a Fanatec. My suggestion is to return the TM and wait for an opportunity to purchase the recently announced Fanatec wheel, if you can afford it. Although the TX wheel has been a decent stand in while waiting for Fanatec, it still lacks the adjustability and quality of a Fanatec.
If you drive in cockpit view, you need to change the degrees in the advanced controller menu. Otherwise, the wheel in the car on screen won’t turn. Otherwise, everything else has been covered. Also, keep your eyes open for Project Cars. Although I don’t think drifting is part of that game though.
@ Spidie: You do know that there’s not ETA for the XBOX One rim for the CSW V2 yet? It seems like Fanatec is still in negotiations with Sony and MS, even though it appears to be in a final stage and they are positive that it will come, sometime. Telling someone to return his TX and get a CSW V2 instead for an Xbox game is a bit early at this time. Fanatec is well known for struggling to meet their promises when it comes to release dates and availability. It can even be Q1 2015 until we see the Xbox rim.
@ Gangrel: When i set my DOR via wheel button combination, and then go to the controller settings in Forza it shows the correct DOR, so it seems to communicate it properly to the game. The movement of the ingame-wheel will always be off the DOR setting, you wont get anything above 270 degrees visually.
If you change it with button while in game because of car switch. The wheel inside of the car won’t move in cockpit view. You have to go to advance controller menu to change it. This is only important i if you use cockpit view & care whether wheel on screen moves or not.
Aah, that makes sense, thanks for clarifying. I’ve seen the issue with the wheel not moving too, but rather rarely. Guess its because i usually swap the rim as well when i’m changing the DOR between car swaps (often move from F1 wheel, DOR270 to GTE rim, DOR 520 and vice versa) and to swap the rim i turn off the wheel and restart the game anyways.
Draconem, remember to unplug the wheel you are not using it as there is no on off switch(you probably already know that☺). I don’t drift either, but running normal steering is probably better for drifting. As far as Vibration ang FFB, I run 80V and 72 for FFB. I wouldn’t mind more FFB, but the FFB can be a little intrusive, especially on hairpins at this setting, so it’s a good all round setting for me. I run 540/360 DOR for P and X class.
Something i’d like to add to Nelor’s good advise: If you usually just disconnect the wheel by pulling the USB cable (and keep the power cable connected), wait until the fan turns off before disconnecting the wheel. The temperature sensor of the wheel’s fan is powered by the USB port while the fan itself is powered by the power cable. If you disconnect from USB while the fan is running it will keep running…all day all night
I am not going to lie i turned FFB down to 50 as its my first FFB ever and its really strong, i struggled in a c class stock clio to drive with out spinning out. With that said i just bought a stock Audi RS 3 all wheel drive and it handles like a dream, what i want to know though…
Are these changes instant before every race when you set the functions as im pretty sure after powering down xb1 and coming back (went out for some smokes) it felt less agressive easier to control is that the car or teh functions ??
And thanks for heads up on power function, also what do you mean by changing degrees ? i am in cockpit view but i havent noticed any issues in terms of view or wheel not turning was a pretty easy 5 10 minute set up for me.
Maybe i am doing it all wrong i dont know but what i do know is the wheel is fun as hell and helps take the corners a lot nicer.
I am pretty sure im slower in lap times but i dont care right now im having maximum fun learning to handle it well.
You’ll be faster after it sets in and becomes muscle memory. I’m about two seconds faster with wheel than I am with controller. The wheel settings (when you use the mode button on the wheel) don’t stick once it is powered off, it always defaults back to 900 degree. So if you are not using 900 degree mode you will have to set that every time.
TBH i am not sure what i did pretty sure its 900 but the lesser ffb is deffinatly sweet 50 for a new comer is a sweet spot i am thinking of upping it to something like 60 shift it gradually, my concern is i really like how the AWD’s handle with the wheel, and i dont want to become stuck using only one set of cars.
But the RWD i find snake like using a controller with sim steering its wierd and very hard to handle least it is for me at the moment.
im usually there myself in a lamborghini Veneno Carbon fiber black & gold …