Got an issue… I can tune ever style/ type of car in this game to at least be stable & somewhat competitive at least… EXCEPT… for the ACTUAL RACE CARS!!! I’m talking about the R-Class GT type race cars…RWD.
I can not, for the life of me figure out how to stop the rear end from kicking out & stopping rear wheelspin! I’ve adjusted rear springs (lowered), I’ve tried various differential settings, I’ve given the cars more TOE IN… I don’t know!!!
Some, anyone… help a honky out! Please & thank you in advance for all who care to help!
Also, depending on the power curve of your car you may be experiencing wheelspin when shifting into a certain gear (this is common with the Rally Engine swap on production cars). If you adjust your gear ratios so that you shift into a different part of the rev range, that will take away a lot of the “kick” you are experiencing.
Sway bars may be an issue if you keep going sideways. You may need to add more controllable understeer to the car. Put rear sway at like 10 and front sway at 30. If that works, turn down the front sway bar until you get the desired feel out of the car.
Gear the car so you’re not always in 1st or 2nd gear or make 1st and second gear longer. That’s a trick I learned with running the Mazda 787b with no traction.
Jack up the front springs by 100-200lbs but leave rear springs alone or jack up the front ride height some. I’ve had a couple cars that worked after doing that. Idk why it worked, but it did.
Also watch your differential settings. They can have a profound affect on the cars handling through the corners. They don’t seem to act the same as previous editions of the game either. So far it seems that higher settings seem to work better, though not for all tracks. I’m still experimenting with them myself.
Hey Outkast - Sorry buddy but I have to say it “THROTTLE CONTROL” - THROTTLE CONTROL - Throttle Control.
Now I haven’t messed with R class much but I have a B class Impala that can’t take full throttle until 140 mph! In a strait line! That being said, could it be “pushy-loose” so everything you are trying is just making it tighter and, therefore, worse? Fundamentally too much understeer mid corner that has you applying power with too much angle on the front tires causing throttle-on-oversteer. The understeer could be masked by just enough entry oversteer so it feels OK up until the point you get back on the throttle. Go find some long sweepers and check. May need to loosen the car up - Springs & bars (aero, camber, tire pressure, and even tire width) to fix the push mid corner. Dampers, decel, and brakes to get turn entry back in shape. Finally dampers and accel to fix exit.
It’s a thought - Happy Lapping,
Crash
+1 on the diff being different in FM6. New differential code? Glitched light AWD converted cars with 100 accel fixed in first content release… Hmmmm…
Thanks you all!!! I’ll take EVERYTHING into consideration & give it a shot. I’ve babied the throttle & maybe I just am not going soft enough on the throttle but I don’t know how much softer I can get.
Accel Differential settings tried have been from the 70% to 80% range as I to have seen that higher accel diff around the 65% to 80% range is the norm on FM6.
everything on the cars feel fine until I get on the gas… I’ll experiment with the knowledge you fine folks bestowed on me & will report back either my success or failures… and probably more questions!
