I suggest we have this thread that is only for advice for those struggling on Blizzard Mountain.
Please keep it free of judgmental comments, debate of is it hard or easy, debate of whether the game is broken.
People are struggling, lets see if we can help them beat the game in its current form.
1st suggestion - take a d class car that is not awd. Awd swap it, add diff, rally springs, anti roll bars, weight redux and add power. Then blueprint the event to just that car.
I have shared a tune for the Corolla SR5 1974 in d class called EASY BLIZZARD.
This is based on the theory that the ai will muck up the auto upgrade and make a car useless in the snow which cannot climb over an anthill.
If people have other suggestions or something that worked for them feel free to post here.
And once again please keep this thread free of the judgmental stuff.
And no i have not got into the christmas spirits early.
Corolla is doing well in my testing, ai got bogged on 1 track lol. Unfortunately it seems too slow to do kangaroo hops.
Build and tune below:
Awd swap
Positive displacement supercharger
Max width tyres but stock compound
Race gearbox and diff
Rally springs
Race anti roll bars
Race weight reduction
Street intake, valves
Race carb, ignition, block, supercharger
Sport exhaust, pistons
Tune
Tyres 28.5/28.0
Final drive 4.77
Camber -1/-0.5
Toe 0.1/0.1
Caster take your pick
Anti roll bars 15/65
Springs 144.5/145.1
Height max
Rebound 7/6
Bump 2/4
Diff 30/0/90/0/60
Posted so you can tweak if you dont like these settings.
This thing is awesome!! I did what you did except the race weight reduction. I went w/ sport, then dumped more power into it. Fun little car that obliterates the competition!
I wanted to forgo weight reduction all together, but would have to do an engine swap to max it out in D.
My thinking is that more weight equals more traction on ice. Someone mentioned the Gurkha earlier and I’ve done better in the Raptor and Titan than anything light weight.
Gonna experiment with my builds, replacing weight reduction with power (or even other handling upgrades) and see how things go.
Nice topic suggestion. Here are some tips of my own, note that I am not a tuner so I drive cars only in stock form or else in upgrade heroes / HE tune.
If a certain car does not work, try another car! I was just doing a 3 star event on a downhill race where you need to finish first and get 30 drifts done. I was doing it in rally monsters and thought the RWD ones (Renault 5 Turbo, Lancia Stratos Group 4) would be the best ones to drift since they are RWD. Yes they get the 30 drifts really fast but they are really hard to keep on track. So I gave that new Subaru rally monster a try (stock tune) and it was super easy. A bit more handbrake triggers needed for the drifting but it is miles ahead on the racing department compared to those RWD cars.
On the extreme offroad category I find that the RWD trucks are MILES behind compared to the AWD trucks. The Ford Ranger T6 and the Warthog are the best ones there, those 2 new trucks (Polaris pro truck and Ford F-100 racing truck) are pathetic in the snow even if they have snow tyres on them.
Normally I play with all assists off and I despise the rewind option with a passion. I did in fact use rewind for that race on the frozen lake where you need to do 2 drift taps. Approach towards a hard fence to drip tab it, if you miss it or bump it too hard, just rewind.
To get the 3 star achievements for circuit races, I often increase the total amount of laps. I can remember one near the satellite dish where you need 160k skill points or one in the village where you need to hit a snowmen 3 times. Increasing the laps from 3 to 5 or even 10 allows you to focus on the racing and not having to worry about that 3-star goal.
Overall AWD and FWD work great in the snow, RWD can work for some cars but in general it’s far weaker than the other two. It can be fun and challenging though, same for racing without snow tyres.
Let me just start by saying that I am slow in this game - enough to where my laptimes are measured in days. I did however 100% BM entirely.
I’m going to modify this one a bit. Not to make it irrelevant, but to put my own spin on it. The game does indeed favor high power AWD builds. So do just that. My addition to this is that I put snow tires on my vehicles. The Ford Bronco and Jeep CJ-5 seem to get me great luck in A-Class, especially the Bronco. I finished some ten seconds ahead of the Drivatars in most if not all of the races I used it in. And the only tuning I do is adjusting the Final Drive on some cars, and my A-Class Bronco build (loosely used term) I didn’t even touch as far as tuning goes. Take a D-Class vehicle (helps if it’s already AWD) and add snow tires, aspiration, and then make pretty much all of the engine parts (cams, intake, etc.) race. Add a race transmission too. The rest is up to you. The only real modification I made is take it to whatever class you want (if you’re already at A 754 for example with all the upgrades might as well make it to A 800 if you can) and you don’t necessarily need to blueprint to the same car, but it could definitely help you if you do that.
Absolutely. I had to change cars a few times, even quit the championship I was in and use an entirely different division altogether. Not all cars and builds are created equal for every track. What works wonders on Descent races might be terrible for Cross Country and so on.
This is incredibly true for me, and I’m glad to see at least someone else agree. I think I figured out why though. If you run TCS, those two vehicles have TCS on pretty much ALL. THE TIME. If you know how TCS works, you’ll know if it’s always on, you’re never really using the full power of your vehicle. For Extreme Offroad, I hesitate to recommend anything beyond the Bowler. It is a very good vehicle for this division. SatNiteEduardo (the OP) has a great S1-Class tune for it. Or at least one tune lol. The Warthog, Ranger, and the Rally Fighter for the most part are pretty good too, and I personally never really struggled with the Baldwin trophy truck. But the '66 F-100 and Pro 2 Truck? Forget them unless you can handle them without TCS. And even if you can…
Yes. This is one I thankfully figured out before my controller ended up in my wall and/or TV. Unless you’re Don Joewon Song, 250K Skill Points in three laps with each lap being roughly one and a half minutes is pretty tough. I always doubled the laps (on a scramble or CC circuit) every time I saw a drifting challenge or skill point challenge. Maybe only one or two did I not need to do that. Ironically the Drift Tap one was very easy for me in the stock Ariel Nomad. And if it’s lap two out of six and you’re done already, well, enjoy the scenery
And honestly, don’t be afraid or feel discouraged to turn the difficulty down, and take a break or two if you need it; let off some steam if you get frustrated. Video games are meant to be fun. Don’t forget that.
Figured I’d chime in here. I found over the weekend tat using my Alfa GTA in D class, it’s shared, not only does it handle the snow very well even in Stock tires but when running events it will be the rare classics. Nothing was even close to me, by the end of the race. I think I had 30 seconds at the end of a 3 lap circuit.
Anyway, give that GTA a try. I’m sure you can come up with a better build Sat nite, but worth a shot anyway.
BZ, that is a great idea to lengthen the races. I will have to give that a shot. My nemesis is the Sideswipes. Doing what Ed said and using a way lower class should help there.
If you’re having trouble with the drifting challenges and have a wheel, try swapping the clutch and e-brake. That makes it way easier to get them.
YW. Drifting itself during races works fine for me (just not on drift zones since I always overdo stuff then :P), the sideswipes can be done rather easy in wide open corners I suppose. If it’s for closed circuits just increase that lap counter. I’m playing with a controller exclusive lately and not with a wheel anymore even though I have a nice cockpit setup. Due to a knee injury I gotta be careful when I use it and certainly not for long periods of time.
@Cerrax: great tips, thanks! And indeed, for some cars you really need to ease on the accelerator or else your wheels are just spinning in place. That Polaris Pro 2 Truck and Ford F-100 race truck being fine examples of it.
In context of ride height, it’s also funny that with a high ride height when you drive into deep snow, you see the trails of your wheels. If you ride into deep snow with a low body car then it’s just 1 big mark for the entire car in the snow. Really well done by the artists at the studios and it’s small details like that which really put a quality stamp on this game in the 3D and graphics department.
I think T10/Playground Games has done an excellent job with the way the snow driving is handled. It is very much like driving in real snow.
Go for handling and acceleration, NOT top speed.
Try to maintain as much speed as possible throughout the race. This is not like asphalt or even dirt races where you can take a corner a little slow and with enough power you can get back up to speed. Snow and ice make it very difficult to accelerate, so once you get up to speed, try not to shave off too much. Cars with higher handling traits shine in BM because top speed doesn’t mean anything if you have to slow down in every corner.
RWD is a nightmare.
There’s a reason most real production cars don’t have RWD anymore. If you’re not on dry asphalt, RWD is a mess. AWD and FWD are going to give you much better traction in the snow.
Ride height is even more important.
Aside from a few spots with sand and standing water, most of the offroad races on the main map can be done with a decent car. Low-sitting cars are going to be super slow in deep snow (which is especially true in the cross country BM races).
Be gentle on the brakes and accelerator.
Since traction is severely limited, your inputs must be very gentle and deliberate. Slow down quite a while before your reach a sharp turn. If you enter the turn a little too early you can always slide a bit and right yourself without flying off the course. If you wait too long, no amount of braking and countersteer will save you
Those are the basic differences I’ve noticed so far.
Terradyne Gurkha LAPV tuned to A800. It’s pretty much unbeatable in races… It’s so massive so its momentum carries it through snow and/or obstacles. Did some coop races last night and I was easily beating drivatars in s2 class cars… As in I could come to a full stop during the race and still win by a large margin.
It’s also amazing through speed zones due to the momentum advantage and the unrealistic grip. This truck basically breaks the game, stay away from it if you want any sort of challenge on Blizzard Mountain.
My tune is shared on the marketplace under my gamertag.
The only real drawback to using it is that is doesn’t drift well. It turns as if on rails so its not ideal for those few races where you need to get some drifts for 3-stars. Otherwise, every race is a guaranteed win.
And so much of the game is based on drifting. I am at about 130 out of 160 points. I doubt I’ll get the last 30 mainly due to the Bucket List with the Ford (the 3 star one) where you have to drift your way to the bottom. One mistake and I have to start over.
Also the drift zones pose a huge problem as well.
Not that I’d ever really USE the Ram Runner, but I wanted to collect it as a rare vehicle in game. I’m going to have to wait. I just don’t have the time or energy to do the same small drift zone or that bucket list over and over and over and over and over… you get the idea.
The game overall is a drifter’s paradise. Grip and handling are just too ingrained in me. If you are drifting all over the place, In my mind, something is wrong. Racing is about grip. Drifting is about the continuous loss of grip which kills lap times.
This is where the skill boost horizon edition cars can also come in handy. Any horizon edition car that is not a credits or XP booster will help. I have 2 22b’s and a focus RS. I always use these when I need to get a lot of skill points.
For the races that required a lot of skill points I blueprinted races which were a few laps longer than standard and used the BMW M3 Drift skill car also made sure that the only cars available were the HE and Standard Edition… actually ended up getting the required points with laps to spare…
And short shifting. Even AWD cars spin the wheels a lot in these slippery conditions. Staying a gear (or even 2) higher than you normally would, helps keep you hooked up and moving forward.
I’m playing with a controller exclusive lately and not with a wheel anymore even though I have a nice cockpit setup. Due to a knee injury I gotta be careful when I use it and certainly not for long periods of time.