Always go AWD and in some cases it turns poor stock vehicles into snowbeaters - RJ Pro Truck with AWD swap for example.
When you get into strife do not brake. Let go of the gas, head in the right direction and get on the gas as quickly as possible. Try to avoid losing momentum if possible.
If using stock vehicles consider whether the car understeers in stock form and if it is affecting you negatively in the snow. If it does add race antirollbars and race diff. Use settings similar to what I have on the Corolla earlier in the thread. Leave everything else stock if you want to but these items should remove understeer.
If you have a specific event post it here and remind us of the challenge. Hopefully someone who has struggled but eventually succeeded can post what worked for them.
Master Storm Island in FH2, then tackle the mountain, because it all just boils down to your ability handling a vehicle off-road, as snow is just another variation in the off-road type. If you are no good with off-roading at all, well then no amount of advise in this thread can help you there.
When you set up your race, choose anything goes as the car theme.
Then watch the AI bring wholly inappropriate cars onto the mountain, and laugh as you beat them easily.
So much great advice in this thread! As a Forza newcomer, BM is so different than the main game for more reasons than just snow.
I have been struggling alot with cornering on alot of tracks. I find myself sliding into a wall at times or hard braking which destroys my momentum. Hard acceleration out of corners gets me, too. Iām going to try tuning down my truck and car while following the advice of being easy on the brakes and acceleration. I do have a couple of questions thoughā¦
Do find BM races easier with a car, truck, buggy, or SUV? I know that this depends greatly on tune setup but assume that they were all equally tuned.
Does the races people create on BM give stars just like the āoriginalā race for that point or are just $$/experience type races?
With my cornering issues, would it be more prudent to focus on trying to improve my drifting skills or just keep working more on proper race cornering? I feel like drifting through corners is āslowerā but at the same time, Iām not the greatest at it at the moment.
Out of all my vehicles my easiest wins are in that D class Corolla lol. But if looking for the more mainstream path I would suggest Offroad. I personally like the Ram Runner, HE Raptor and Nissan.
With my Ram Runner HE which is now my quickest in the Offroad class in A class I have gone against the norm. I am using the original motor and generally using 3rd gear and not many more gears.
My HE Raptor tune (shared) does well in the snow too and should be suitable to allcomers.
I usually am a fan of maintaining traction at all times in the offroad events. But here for the tightest of turns an e brake turn seems to help.
Obviously you need to maintain enough forward momentum to beat your opponents though so I would suggest try proper race cornering in the main and save drifting for when you need it for a challenge or as last resort. (I try not to drift but inevitably do because of the surface.
Yes the stars work for created events provided you still win and beat the challenge.
Great advice Eduardo and Monx. Interestingly enough, I was using the Pro 2 and the F-100 lol. I have a 1,200HP Runner that Iām going to tune down to A Class and try it. Iām thinking about using the 70ās Corolla as a back up.
Oh, and different spins (as long as theyāre civil and make sense) are always welcome
For the ones who struggle on short exhibition races where they need to get lots of skills points (or for other reasons struggle), it could help to use the āskill point bonusā that puts you on pole position for 4 races. It costs 10 skill points, but it can be helpful not to have to fight any other cars initially on the track.
Something that may also be useful, I did help a friend get a couple sets of 3 stars having him host a co-op campaign session and then blueprinting team races for us, where I would then finish first for him while he was mid-pack or so, with both of us achieving the 3rd star objective. So if you have a fast friend or two, this might also be a good helping hand.
Now, as far as just winning as a team versus just having someone take 1st place on the team, Iām not sure whether itās one or the other, but seeing as we both got the āFinished 1stā rewards post-race, it sounds like it just needs to be a team win.
Also, I had already 3-starred all Blizzard Mountain exhibitions at the time, so I donāt know if it will give 3 stars to both people, but I would imagine it does considering the base gameās co-op campaign.
I would verify my last two lines myself to see if my speculation is true, but I canāt right now, so I apologise in advance if Iām wrong on either accounts. But on the off-chance that they are true, I still wanted to post them as it may make the process a lot easier.
SatNite, your Bowler tune is a blast on the mountain!
With races Iāve actually been splitting most of mine between a Fiesta XR2 with rally suspension and cosmetics - nothing else, and the stock Raptor Race truck. The Fiesta is great for drift skills, you can stay on the mat and pop the handbrake to kick the back out at will and hardly lose any momentum. FWD works great in snow just like real life.
I was also going to mention adding laps to the circuit races, really helps out. Even when the drivatars all crash in a pile on the little racecourse.
I have to say, both of SatNites tunes have given me a huge boost on the trackā¦ the Bowler is amazing, almost impossible to get out of control, even on iceā¦
Just out of curiosityā¦ Has anyone tried to lower the tire pressure to get better grip on off-road racing? That normally works well IRL, but I donāt know if it makes any difference in Forza Horizon 3ā¦
Yes. I do this for all my cars. For Goliath my tune runs 29psi front and 27psi back. It helps with grip and turn in response.
For drag races it is 30psi up front and minimum out back. skinnies on the front and wide as possible on the back. Helps with weight transfer and grip off the line.
For the snow, it depends on the car. Some do better with 20psi, and others with a little more.
I do the same in the winter time for my Mustang. I drop the PSI about 3 pounds in the front and 4-4.5 in the rear (if I go to 5 it will set off the TPMS after a week or so until the tires heat up).
Something we did a lot āoffroadā in the real world to increase the size of the contact patchā¦ havenāt really tried going down much than a few PSI on either the main map or here yetā¦
Hopefully the drivatars dont learn our build habits lol
On the issue of tyre pressure be careful - in the main game you gain a few psi as the tyres heat up on the track / road. On BM you lose a few psi as the tyres cool down in the snow. I did some testing using telemetry.
I havenāt tested this but IRL dragging, I under inflate to compensate for the āwarm upā alot of us do at the line before dragging the line. Between a 3-second āburnā and the 9-20 seconds it takes to drag the lines thereās a gain between 5-15 psi depending on speed, terrain, tire type, ect. I would imagine that in the cold, youād do the opposite. I donāt drag in the cold so I have never tested this but Iād think itād be the opposite.
For the exhibitions with the skill score requirements, I took my s900 Nissan GT-R Horizon Edition and adjusted it for the snow. Rally suspension, snow tires, and 2 small engine upgrades to max out the PI rating (since I went from race tires to snows.) I had it tuned for dry track racing but didnāt change tweak any other settings. Itās good in the snow, I can drive focusing on drifting and still win quite easily.
To make it even easier, blueprint the exhibition to Nissan-only. The last race I was in was full of Nissans that were well below my PI rating.
