Testing on Lakehurst Forest Sprint, the NSX-R GT is my next best car after the Daytona and Bone Shaker in the dry, and moves ahead of the Daytona in the wet. I’d be interested to know what it does on your test route, though I expect longer term you’d want to make your own tune:
(image quality is terrible, it’s from before I worked out how to stop youtube turning them to mush)I did run your setup and it squeezed itself on #10 on my list with a 6:39.540. My RWD build with the stock engine achieved a 6:39.836 (and my normal 2005 NSX with RWD and stock engine a 6:40.316) So it seems the PI system works quite well here and the car is balanced.
From what I experienced with your build is basically the same as with mine: Due to its high base grip and low drag its power/weight ratio can’t keep up with the top cars. That’s why it suffers when accelerating from low speeds (as V12 noticed on Bamburgh where this is very obvious). Though, thanks to its low drag it keeps accelerating on speeds where other cars with better engines begin to stumble. And the cornering is plain awesome.
I guess these last two points allows it to perform that well on Lakehurst.
Overall it’s a great car but it’s an older NSX…it’s expected 
Thanks for trying it out. I tried it around Bamburgh, and it is indeed well off the pace there. It’s a bit like the Xbow GT4 where it clearly has much more handling than it needs for that long right hander. It is interesting to me how different the demands of the different tracks in the game are. I assume this is intentional, but it just adds to the size of the task of trying to get the best cars prepared for every possible online racing playlist, to the extent that it feels impossible to complete before the next game.
Without proper Rivals (with the option to download the top tunes right off the leaderboard) it’s definitely a huge task. In the end a good allrounder that can handle road/street & dirt races + freeroam rush under every condition is the key to success. That’s where the Bone Shaker shines …off-road tires and everything except cross-country is winnable on A-class.
The TVR Speed 12 on S2 provides this too to an extent.
But to have the optimal car for every playlist I would assume the amount to be above 30 cars/setups.
I tested to make that NSX in a-class and first at bamburgh i was “damn this car is way too slow” as it was 0,5s slower than evo and almost second slower than daytona but i then run it on lakehurst forest sprint and there it hit’s pretty mutch same time than daytona and evo.
Rayne evo and daytona are pretty fast even with stock engines. And in daytona in my tune style have same amount hp both stock engine and V8 swap.
I definitely agree on the Daytona. It is nearly equally fast with the stock engine but I just prefer the power curve of the swapped V8. In the end it doesn’t make much of a difference.
The Evo’s and the GTO on the other hand hugely benefit from the centrifugal supercharger of the V8. I haven’t tested the Evo VI with its stock engine yet because the power curve wasn’t promising but on the GTO the difference between stock engine and V8 swap with centrifugal supercharger was around 7 seconds per lap.
However, the very centrifugal supercharger is the reason I wouldn’t recommend these Mitsubishis unless you know how to make good use of it. It’s the same as it was with my Clio FE.
I keep daytona in stock engine but it’s more my personal preference than perfomance as both hit pretty mutch same lap times.
I havent tested evo yet at V8 and i havent even build GTO yet (damn garage space) but i really suprise how well evo do even with stock engine and my build is also pretty easy to drive, really familar tracks daytona is faster but those tracks that i dont know that well evo do mutch better than daytona.
And that centrifugal supercharger really need some learning that can really make good use of it so for me that fit mutch better hot lapping than online racing.
Your tune is up? Then I’ll take it for a spin when I’m back at the game.
I wish I knew how to do that. I have encoded videos using Handbrake’s dedicated YouTube 60fps preset, these videos look perfectly fine when I play them on my PC, but after YouTube re-encodes them, they look rather blocky and pixellated.
You need to encode them to 2560x1440. This causes YouTube to use the VP9 codec to encode them. If you don’t do that, they only use the VP9 codec for channels that get more than a certain number of views, which is why ours look so much worse than the videos by the popular YouTubers. They also use a higher bitrate for the 1440p version which makes it look even better than the VP9 1080p version. Here’s an example - if you force it to 1440p you’ll see the quality is superb:
I just hope they don’t change it if too many people start uploading in 1440p.Ah so that’s it - the quality on that video is indeed superb. All the guides I’ve read about how to upload for best quality on YouTube never mentioned this trick. I’ll certainly do this next time. Thank you so much.
I don’t like to drive the Daytona or the Boneshaker all the time. So I tuned and tested some other cars. My three favorite cars with the Forza Aero are the Mazda RX-8 R3, the Subaru BRZ (no Widebody-Kit) and the Vauxhall Insignia VXR. All three cars are tuned with a good compromise between grip and speed. In the Online Adventure I have no problems to be competitive. Another good car is the Maserati 300 S. This car is without the Forza Aero. All the tunes you can find in my storefront. There are also a lot of A class and S1 class tunes without the Forza Aero Parts. Feel free to test them…
Nalak28’s tune for the Alfa Romeo Giulia TZ2 is extremely good as well. It also seems to prove the notion that all the numbers in the game mean absolutely nothing.
The NSX example is one where many people can falter building their A class. Going race tires, heavy weigbt redu tion etc can result in wasted tuning. My NSX was a tough win because it handled too well. Its grip performance exceeded what I needed. I reduced handling for more power to maintain competitiveness on more tracks.
What do you guys prioritize when building A class cars? I tend to prioritize max weight reduction, camshaft, and exhaust upgrades if that’s what I can fit into 800 PI, but are there any… huh, optimal builds for all-purpose A class?
In previous page Rayne se say pretty well what make good a-class car. In S1 class i almost allways use race weight reduction but in A800 i use that more rarely and some cars dont use weight reduction at all. Shelby cobra is example that kinda build, awd swap, vintage race tires, aeros, max rear tire width, second widest front tires, all drivetrain upgrades, race brakes, springs and antiroll bars and then power enough to match A800 rating.
My all time favorite for A Class is the Torana. It´s a beast.
Fiddled around hours to make a good tune and i can keep up with all cars except the BoneShaker - or at least when some good driver is in it.
Lacks a bit top speed but perfect for short and tight tracks.
The acceleration is unbelievable.
For me, “favorite” and “fastest” may be two different things, but I’m surprised that I haven’t seen anyone mention the RX7 Spirit R. It’s well-balanced and fun to drive while still feeling stable. Easy to take on the AI with this one, but maybe not competitive enough for online racing? I don’t do much of that so not sure.
I use the Honda nsx and a Ferrari 575 m those do well even against the bone shaker
Bone Shaker