No, it’s not my controller or settings. I already have steering deadzones set to 0/100 and no stick drift - everything is 100% okay with the controller.
This is a problem ONLY in FH5 and none of the other Horizon or FM games: for the first 5-10% range of motion, there is no input as if due to an invisible dead zone. Very annoying!
Non-issue on the previous horizon games. Please fix this!
Series X.
Ehhh trying to test this. Mixed results. Leaning towards you being right and that turning 5-10 degrees with 0 deadzone does indeed do nothing on XSX with stock controller.
Most controllers have a built in firmware level deadzone.
You could also be experiencing a software level anti-dift solution. Your left stick may be degrading, and Microsoft’s solution to keep people from getting mad might be a hidden driver level function that auto increases the controllers deadzone when stick drift is detected.
I don’t know if that’s a thing but it does seem like something Microsoft would do.
Otherwise I have no idea what’s causing your issue.
Not to sound like tech support, but did you confirm the update for your controller through the console?
I’ve reported similar dec’21 so yeah…
The whole inputsystem needs to be rewritten. Think they tried to fix something while ago and added second set of settings. Thats why telemetry and radio buttons can loose function too.
But yeah best is to rewrite and add proper stuff for the wheels and controllers. Other games do way better but fh(X) is only graphics demo to showcase xbox
The best way to test that would be using the inbuilt Xbox controller testing utility. I’ll try tonight after work if I remember.
I just tried the controller testing utility on my Xbox and the dead zone for the sticks was a lot more than 5 or 10%, maybe as high as 20%.
I’ve been watching videos about common problems with the XBox Elite Series 2 controllers, and a lot of them do not return to the centre very well. This deadzone could be just to fix drift from them not returning to centre.
Nearly all controllers, including all first party controllers (and their premium options) use the exact same potentiometer from the exact same company. It’s an awful product that is guaranteed to fail at some point. In fact all potentiometers are prone to failure, and are objectively obliterated by other solutions like Hall effect sensors and optical sensors.
But they are cheap.
Want to hear the most maddening thing? The N64 controller joystick was a terrible design of plastic bearings that would quickly fade with usage, causing the stick to become loose. However the sensor was far superior than what is used today, so center input always remained registering as no input, no matter how beaten the controller got.
We’ve only gone backwards as far as joystick sensors are concerned.
The most maddening thing I “hear” when it comes to XBOX controllers is the inevitable case creak that will show up at the point on the hand grip where the upper & lower housing seams meet. Never owned one that didn’t eventually do this at some point.
I either never noticed the creak, or I don’t hug and squeeze and call my controllers George quite enough.
I think it depends how rough you are with the controllers. I also know that the stock controller has a much higher quality in terms of consistency then the elite 2 which are notoriously hit or miss. You buy a brand new elite 2 and you basically have a 50/50 chance of having some sort of an issue out of the box. Apparently the newly released elite 2 has a better build quality but only time will tell.
With standard controller it worked fine atm… so was looking at my ticket and it was for Throttle/Brake Deadzones ignoring 0%-15% not steering and i’ve used the Elite 1 at the time.
It’s not always very noticeable during game play, but once you hear it, you’ll know. If you want to test it: push in on the side of the lower case (left hand grip) where the seams come together (calling it “George”, which the younger crowd most will likely not get, is optional 
).
There’s a lack of structural support behind that area. Opposite side is solid.
Please stop making this about the controller - it is NOT about the controller … It’s about what PG has done to the input programming or coding, whatever you want to call it
This is the ONLY game in my collection where the cars do not respond during the first 5-10% stick movement.
NO issues in previous Horizon games or any other game. I think you people are completely ignoring the fact that it’s a game related bug.
My controller is pristine and works 100% responsively in 100% of the games - minus FH5. I don’t remember this being an issue when the game launched. Since developers release broken games nowadays one of the updates must have mucked up the controller input/response coding.
You need to understand that programming can be related to a controller. If a controller does not return to centre then you have to ‘program’ a dead zone.
I didn’t say anything about stick centering.
You people are waving around your expert opinion, pretending that nothing is wrong with the control whereas several players have acknowledged that the car does not change lanes or direction until you move the stick more than 5-10% .
It’s not an issue in any other game I’m playing ONLY this game. Make sense?
No it doesn’t make sense. I said that they programmed it, so it would only happen in this game.
There is many more quirks but yeah easier to develop own game.
Input is broken since FH4, Logitech G920 is most used Steering Wheel on the Xbox but try it ingame. Clutch Pedal and other Buttons doesnt work. Default settings map clutch to A button instead of the analog clutch pedal.
With attached Wheel and Controller rotate steering wheel 90deg and do a jump game looses wheel input and controller starts to rumble.
Drive around at high speed with the wheel as input and press “look back” on controller (RS) and your rpm goes max.
So many bugs in the game and nothing fixed but hey they added some “fancy” icons
Look at the telemetry to see if input works. Game has bugs in physics too… But yeah dont trust the telemetry 100% 
This discussion is only about the steering’s unresponsiveness on pad during the initial turn in, and nothing else.
Let’s keep this on top.