I suddenly found I could play the game with a wheel having previously always found it unplayable with a wheel, and there was an update, so I’ve always wondered if something changed significantly in that update.
In all updates since then, I haven’t noticed any significant changes in how my wheel feels (Fanatec).
I agree about drifting, I find it impossible to do well with a wheel, and I find cars need to be really stable to be good for racing with a wheel, it seems to cause far more problems than the controller with cars getting sideways and it being impossible to bring them back, so you just slide sideways till you stop.
Not sure if this has been asked before, I have the TM TMX wheel and pedal, I just started looked at different forums for settings nothing seemed to help, I just started in the intro race, The cars wheel goes nuts and when i turn my wheel it doesn’t register the turn then it does and goes one extreme or the other hard left or hard right almost no in between while moving at a stand still it sort of turns as i turn, Is it because Im on a PC?
Have you updated the drivers and firmware for the wheel on the PC lately? If not start there. Go to the Thrustmaster website and install the driver and, if necessary, the firmware update.
Next, if you have a USB 2.0 port instead of a faster blue 3.0 port, try using that instead to plug the wheel into.
Lastly use the manual wheel settings to try and get it to a driveable state. Do this by holding down the MODE button on the front-right side of the wheel and while holding it down, click one of the paddle shifters. Each click should cause the little light near the mode button to flash 1-4 times, each flash corresponds to changing the rotational limit of the wheel from 270 degress or so through 500ish, then 700ish then finally max of 900 or 1080…the higher settings = lots of wheel turn required to turn the car, and the lowest setting will be super tight steering, more like an F1 car where a tiny turn = a huge turning of the wheels. The best settings are the two in between (so 2 flashes or 3 flashes).
From there you can go into the game settings for controls > wheel > advanced and start playing with the numbers. For a good baseline, try the following:
Everything in the advanced menu should be left as DEFAULT with the following changes:
Force Feedback to 50 (that might be the default, already)
Center Spring 10
Dampers 10
Sensitivity or Rotation (the last option at the bottom of the list) set it to 540 or 720, that is sort of a general sweet-spot where turning the wheel in real life corresponds to turning of the wheel in the cockpit view and is a good place to start your personalized tweaking.
so all my drivers are up to date along with firmware, i hold the mode button down and i get nothing with shift up or down paddles in game, I took a video on my phone is there a way to upload it? I guess youtube, i didnt try the usb thing, i have a 7 port usb extender plugged into my mobo pcie its plugged in there, i think its a 3.0 so plug it into a non 3.0? ill give it a shot
Saw the video, make sure you are using a direct connect to the PC and not going through a hub, I’ve had trouble using hubs for wheel inputs in the past. A dedicated USB Extension Cable (go cheap get a 2.0 or slower, even) going into a slower USB 2.0 port (or even the mouse/keyboard ports on the back of the PC’s motherboard) works best for me, but most pc’s still have a couple of USB 2.0 ports available.
Also, you’ve downloaded and installed the Thrustmaster Control Panel app correct? How does that report the wheel. PS: If the mode + L/R paddle doesn’t do anything for you (it should make the the little light near the button flash once, twice, three times etc…) try holding MODE and then using the d-pad l/r instead.
Just an FYI when using a PC The “mode button plus paddle” sensitivity feature (I think there are four modes) doesn’t do anything. It only works on console as per Thrustmaster’s web site.
I’m amazed how people can drift with wheels in 3rd person, I see a lot of thrustmaster wheels with larger, heavier add-on rims to throw the wheels around, and I see people using a lot of Logitech products doing the same thing but with the stock wheels, I have no idea how they can make the wheels so light yet still have the power to snap-rotate back with FFB so quickly…which they then catch. I’m impressed.
I can’t do that easily with my Thrustmaster TMX but I also rarely drift or use cars with drift suspensions and camber setups…that could be a factor.
The way the sticks work is you jam them over as your back-end starts to slide out…and as you keep the sticks pegged the game works a little magic, it’s not like keyboard ON/OFF max turn or anything, even though the sticks haven’t moved its more of a gradual ramp up of tires turning to their max, its like it slows down the turning…it you put simulation steering ON I think this changes is to a more literal interpretation of the stick position, making spinning out a whole lot easier in Simulation Steering mode.
The wheel just stays where you turn it. The game doesn’t massage the turning for you, behind the scenes, it expects you to go hand-over-hand with your wheel, aka do it all yourself.
Try this: Adjust your LINEARITY to something like 40, then try it at 60 (instead of the default 50) with the wheel…see what that does for you. Also don’t forget some cars love to oversteer (Porsche), you can adjust the rear diff to help alleviate some of that, and not just adjust the steering itself…sometimes…its just the car you’ve chosen.
You can cheat this a bit by using a wheel and then setting the rotational angle to something like 360 or 420 or something low, where going like 3/4 of a turn = nearly full lock…you’re either correcting the slide at that point or going around.
Unfortunately that also has the added side-effect of meaning every car in the game will feel like it has heavier, tight-ratio steering…and of course you’ll be using the wheel a lot less, aka: actually turning it and getting the fidelity of the FFB that comes through when you have more rotation to work with. A lot of folks say 540 or so is a good compromise between the two, I personally use 700 or so but I try to play the game more like Forza Motorsport than Forza Horizon at that point.
Please let me know if I need to post this elsewhere.
I ahve a sterring wheel which allows for xinput and directinput to PC, but FH4 will only work with Xinput.
This would be fine except Xinput has literally the worst deadzones possible for my wheel as it basically recognises it as a controller and changing deadzones in FH4 does nothing.
I have gotten the wheel to work perfectly using X360ce in other games using the Antideadzone settings, but rather stupidly FH4 installs into a folder you cant make changes to, so I cant even drop the needed .DLL file into the folder for this to fix FH4.
So am I screwed? What do I need to do next?
Also if anyone from Microsoft happens to see this,
I AM CAPABLE OF HANDLING MY OWN FILES THANKS, DONT NEED YOU TO LITERALLY LOCK ME OUT OF FOLDERS ON A PC AND SOFTWARE THAT I OWN. GO BACK TO APPLE.
Forza Horizon 4 - Thrustmaster T300RS GT - PC Windows 10 - Recommended Settings
I have tried several settings suggested by various posts from the internet but cannot make the wheel to work smoothly. I can drive the car at around 80 MPH but whenever there is a turn the car skids and the car becomes totally uncontrollable and goes for a spin. Can someone suggest me best possible settings for this wheel?
Wheel: Thrustmaster T300RS GT Edition
Forza Horizon 4
OS: Windows 10
I can’t help you with settings for that wheel, but what you describe is more likely down to the car, tune, and your driving.
Some cars just don’t work that well with a wheel no matter how they are tuned.
Some tunes made by keyboard or controller users are horrible with a wheel.
With a wheel, you have the possibility of steering too much, whereas you don’t with a keyboard or controller. The car and tune have a big effect on how forgiving the car is around the region where the wheel is starting to be turned too much.
Also, braking can be tricky with a wheel, as you don’t have the vibration feedback you get with a controller, or the stop that you have with an elite controller. You need to not slam the pedal fully down, more like 50-70% travel. I recommend having ABS off.
I have quite a few tunes shared that I’ve used to get high up on leaderboards with a wheel. E.g. for S1 you could try my tunes of the McLaren F1 and the 2005 Ford GT, both are strong S1 cars.
I need to clarify something, if someone knows this for sure…
I am using a pc with clubsport 2.5 where you can put the fanatec driver wheel rotation setting to “auto” meaning the software adapts the actual car wheel rotation to this setting.
Forza horizon 4 is my favourite game and i have a bought a numskull pro steering and wonder if anyone can email me or help me with any suitable settings as i have tried everything