Please behave everyone, you can offer advice but you cant force someone to accept it. To the OP, if people have taken the time to offer advice then please try to be grateful they took the time to reply, whether you accept that advice or not.
I dont think what I assume to be a language difference is helping much here either so please be aware that English is not always someones first language and that can lead to misunderstanding in what people are trying to communicate.
I was in a rivals battle with a friend. We had already changed builds once and we got to the point where we were cutting 0.033 of our time and my driving could not get any quicker.
I changed my build again and improved by 2 seconds.
This was by reducing tyre compound, adding power and needing to drive more carefully due to less grip. Build is probably good for another 2 seconds or so.
Builds can help when driver skill hits its limit.
NFS The Run was pick up and play, FH2 was in the main grip friendly, FH3 is power hungry.
Said it a few times, the community in general, at least most that have posted up here have always been quick to help and more than generous with their time whether it be just writing a reply or trying out a build or tune for somebody. This has been another example of that. This, besides the games themselves, is the biggest reason why I am such a Forza fan.
There may be a pretty big language barrier here as Windswept Dragon had said. That can be difficult for the OP I’m sure. Aside from that, there is a wealth of good tidbits of ways to work on you game for a beginner here. Along with some absolutely classic posts! This community also has a great sense of humor!!
Don’t act like you’re from the Marty McFly school of driving.
Michael J Fox … Back to the Future? Michael J Fox crashing cars was a main plot point in a lot of movies, and it usually played out the same way.
Spoiler Alert
So Marty McFly is in a DeLorean and is getting chased by a VW Bus-load of Lybians with an RPG. While shifting, he accidentally turns on the time circuits. He doesn’t know that anything special will happen when he hits 88. So he leads the Lybians in a chase around a mall parking lot. When they pull out the RPG, he’s now ready to try to get away. What was he doing before? I don’t know. It was a VW bus chasing him. So he says something like, “Let’s see if you can do 90.”
He floors it.
But in front of him was a Photo Shack, or something. Pictures used to be on film … ask your parents, not important here. But Marty is accelerating toward this small structure. It’s in his way, not part of the plan.
At this point, his eyes should be telling him to do something. He could steer right. He could steer left. He could apply the brakes. The least he could do is not accelerate toward death. So does he do any of that? No. All he does is cringe and brace for impact while still accelerating. He’s no longer a driver, now he’s just a passenger along for the ride. Luckily, he’s in a time machine that he didn’t know was on … because he should be dead! Instead of dying, he goes back in time. But when he gets there, he’s offroad and still doing 80. He’s still in danger. He hits a scarecrow. Does this make him finally brake, or steer? Nope.
Instead, he goes, “AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!”
Not a solution.
As a result, he’s still in danger. Now he heading toward a barn at 80. Does he brake or steer now? No. What does he do?
“AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!”
Terrible driving.
So what’s the moral of the story? When driving, things don’t always go as planned but you still have to drive, and crashing is a bad thing. If you headed toward a tree, find a combination of braking and/or steering to avoid a crash. If you see that you’re entering a corner too hot, slow down and stay off the wall. Remember, slow in and fast out is much better. If you’re too slow in, you lose a fraction of a second. Too fast in and you’re dead. If there’s a slower car in front, don’t just run into them. Slow down and set up a line around them. If your equipment fails … if you lose braking, or steering, or if you car pulls to one side … slow down, adjust, use whatever input you can to maintain control. And something like that may make you crash in one corner. But if you go on to crash in more corners, that’s on you. Slow down and maintain control.
But if you’re crashing over and over and over, and your only reaction is the equivalent of:
“AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!”
… then you’re not driving good. There’s more to good driving than be able to rerun a Rivals event until you do something good. Not crashing is a good start. Crashing doesn’t sense. It doesn’t fit. And if it doesn’t fit, you must acquit. Goodnight, ladies and gentlemen.
Dear Et Tant Pis, I may be able to help. The V8 Vantage the old one is way to heavy to race competitively especially in S1 class. Same goes for the 650s. You have to find better cars for that class. For the S1 class try the Commodore VL, Diablo SV, Dart HEMI '68, or Honda NSX-R '92. Yes, AWD and turn off all assists. I still use ABS. If you are planning on winning online you should turn on the full racing line and use third person camera view. Why? People are unpredictable and you have to anticipate and calculate for upcoming turns and contact with other racers. You cannot do that from the hood view or without the racing line there is too much stuff going on. Good luck racing off road through a corn field at 200 khm with Super Dave coming behind you in a heavy 3000 kg Hummer with stock tires. I am rank 500 and keep full racing line on and usually top three in Online Adventure. This game is more of an RPG Racing game with the vast amount of cars and possibilities when combined with tuning. I also drive standard with clutch.
Great thanks for such kindly made recomendations, nice to read! But, looks like, I’ll be unable to use some of them. First of all, for third day I cannot enter any “adventure” room, although it being found. Looks like, I will die berofe this problem will be solved. At our local store average grade of this game is 2.6 of 5 - technical reasons usually. Nothing surorizing: I installed Windows 10 specially for try Forza games in September, and it become totally dead 4 times in a month - so, what to expect from game? And especially nice, that program send you to forums for help. Its like you go to police crying “they theft my money”, but officer tell: dont worry, you can go to сhurch-porch, kneel there, and kind people will help you.
But also… about third-person view… sorry, its not for me. It would be another game than I want to play. I started online play in Grid already in hood position, no great problems with it. And I play with wheel and pedals, it would be even ridiculous if I’d began to fly above car such staff.
Then, racing line… strange, also never tried it. I thought, that my experience and intuition will help me draw my own line, and anyway the question is not WHERE this line, but HOW to keep it. Not so many tracks in this game, and since in offline playing the same tracks, after career passing I shal know these tracks quite good.
Others your advices are concrete and useful, thanks!
And, so, since nobody answered me here about wheel using experience, I shall start new topic upon this point - looks like, its just critical for me.
About this, I completely agree. If some people enjoy playing the game in 3rd person, that’s fine and I’m glad people are having fun. But I personally can’t enjoy playing that way. I use the driver’s seat camera.
The racing line is useful if people are not familiar with the course, or to use as a marker to know when to start braking rather than using signs or trees as marks to know when to start braking. But the racing line in the game is not accurate. It is not always the best line around turns and the where the line changes color to signify braking zones is often a lie and a recipe for crashing into a wall. In single player, the drivatars follow this line. Sometimes it’s good, sometimes it’s bad or impossible. If you do ever use it, it’s not really the best line but only a guide to loosely follow.
It paints the picture that there are good cars and bad cars, and that neither the V8 Vantage or McLaren 650S are good in S1. This is completely wrong. About the first week of the game, I put a S1 class 650S in the top 3 at Skyline View Circuit in just a couple of test laps. I believe it’s still in the top 20.
The truth of this game is that almost ALL cars can be made competitive (I don’t know about the Reliant), and that it’s all about the build.
I built an S1 class Ford Transit Van and dominated a lobby with it. No second place finishes, no third place finishes. All first place finishes in a Ford Transit Van.
What keeps cars from being competitive in certain classes is that if the stock, un-upgraded version of the car is close to the top of the class that you are trying to upgrade it to, there are limited options in terms of upgrades. And that’s it. That’s all that keeps some cars from being competitive in some classes. For that reason, the V8 Vantage is not the greatest A class car because it starts out in A class and you have to make a choice between reducing weight or adding power. But as has already been pointed out pages ago, even in A class, this V8 Vantage can be competitive. I didn’t lose once in online adventure and I put it on the front page of at least one leaderboard. But in S1 class … in S1 class, the V8 Vantage has no drawbacks. It’s starts out heavy, but there is plenty of room to reduce the weight in S1 class. Or instead of reducing weight, you can add more power. Depending on where you take it, you may choose to go either route. In S1 class, it can be made to be a high horsepower missle car, or a handling car. S1 900 is far enough in PI from where it started stock to make it versatile. There is zero problem with the V8 Vantage in S1 class.
The McLaren 650S does start fairly close to the S1 900 limit, but there is enough room to make it a good all around car, or a great handling car. And I’m talking about leaderboard times. For an online adventure, a well-built McLaren 650S driven by a good driver can beat 95% of everything you see in Online Adventure races.
When I build a car and finally get around to driving and tuning it, my goal is to put the car in the top 10 of at least one leaderboard. I have yet to build and tune a car that didn’t get top 10 on at least one leaderboard. I’ll repeat, I have yet to build and tune a car that didn’t get top 10 on at least one leaderboard. Just about all cars can be built to be competitive somewhere. If somebody tells you that such and such car is no good, unless they are talking about the Reliant or that egg-looking BMW, don’t believe it. That’s NOT how this game works. Even trucks can beat supercars if built and driven right.
This comes back to things said earlier in this thread. To be competitive online, you need purpose-built cars. Stock cars won’t get it done. An average RWD build won’t get it done. You need a competitive car.
Et Tant Pis, earlier you said that you didn’t want to take the time right now to build cars. If you don’t want to, that’s fine. You can always download someone else’s tune and use that. Many people in this thread share their tunes. I share mine. Or you can go to any leaderboard, find a car you like, then highlight the driver and go to player options. From there, you can visit a player’s storefront and find out if they have shared a tune.
If you are racing online and want to be competitive, there is no way around needing a car built to be competitive.
And about your wheel …
It’s hard to troubleshoot your wheel given what you’ve given us to go by. You said that your top speed was limited, but you shared videos that show the opposite. Earlier you seemed to be saying that you don’t like the fact that you can’t “jerk” the wheel … (I’m quoting you) … and get the response from the car that you want. I assume that you did mean this because I watched a number of your youtube videos, including videos from other games. When you were playing the Sebastian Loeb Rally game, you definitely were coming right up to corner and then making quick, drastic steering inputs. That game was allowing you to get the car very sideways without you losing a lot of speed. You weren’t really drifting in those videos, but going from sideways to straight almost instantly. In Forza, you can’t do that. Being smooth is key, not make quick, drastic steering inputs. You can get away with that a little more on dirt, but even on dirt you don’t want to get completely sideways. I remember a Formula One driver on Top Gear driving the reasonable priced car. For the camera, he touched the steering wheel with only his thumbs and index fingers … as a sign to be light and smooth on the steering wheel. That is what works in Forza.
So you described problems you were having with the wheel and your driving style, such as that you eventually lose the back end and oversteer, and that the wheel does not immediately return to center the way you want. Other than buying a new wheel, you could try setting the initial deadzone higher so that when you steer, you have to pass a certain zone before the car actually steers. This can help keep your steering input smooth. But, again, building and tuning your car will make the car much more driveable. If you are using a RWD car, like you were in at least one video, being aggressive with the steering and gas pedal, as I saw you being in the videos, will make it very hard to keep the back end in line and make the car hard to control … no matter what steering wheel you use.
But, for the love of God, not another topic. If you start a Go Fund Me page so that you can afford a new wheel, I’ll donate money as long as we don’t get another topic on the same subject.
It depends, partly on how people want to define competitive, and whether we are talking about lobby cars or rivals cars.
Now if worm was reading that he might think here we go again, but with the rocketship builds in this game I believe we may have a case where some of the quickest rocketships are easy enough to drive to get 1 clean lap out of 5 or 50 but not drivable enough online, but of course some are.
I believe there are good cars and bad cars still. I do believe that if we are not limiting ourselves by class then we do have a smaller gap between a good and bad car but I definitely believe some cars are bad and do not fulfill my definition of competitive. Sometimes its as simple as whether they have enough available parts to max out in class without including useless upgrades. Sometimes if a car starts high A then they still can not be competitive in S1.
Top 20, top 1%, top xyz may or may not mean much either. If a good tarmac, S1 rivals runner put in a good effort with the communities current best build will they be 1 sec, 5 seconds or 20 seconds quicker than 20th? Time gaps in this game are huge.
You then combine that with the clean and dirty lap concept and realise why online seems tougher than rivals to set top xyz times. You see there are very quick players just running online setting dirty lap after dirty lap but they a flipping quick. To compete with them you need to pick one of the good cars. When at the fine end of the wedge there is such a thing as good and bad cars even with a good build.
I am not going back on any previous advice I have given which is in this game build is critical. You can make a Vantage quick in S1 by using a good build. But quick is relative and there are good and bad cars (in my opinion).
What tends to happen is you get a quick driver, good builder and good tuner set a top 20 time in a car and they say see this car is competitive. Put them in what is a good car and they go 5 seconds faster. They make oddballs set what on the face of it is a good time and they enjoy the challenge of doing it. They forget they know how to drive quicker than those around them on the leaderboards.
I was talking more about lobby cars, as this started with a question about why something was happening in an online lobby. I know I brought up how the cars I’ve worked on do in Rivals, but I haven’t built a single car yet with the purpose of setting a Rivals time. Going to Rivals is just a step in the tuning process to fine tune a car meant to be an all around car for use in lobbies, if that’s what someone wants to do with them. I don’t run lap after lap after lap trying to set Rivals times … not yet, anyway. They come from just getting through the course without crashing.
I agree that there are different levels of competitive when it comes to Rivals and leaderboards, but there is a pretty big usable range to be good in lobbies and I have yet to run across a single car that couldn’t be made a seriously competitive lobby car. An S1 Transit Van was killing lobbies because it can be made to have high horsepower, be less than 4000 pounds, have a handling rating of 7.5 and an acceleration rating approaching 10.
Of course if I was in a lobby with you, or Don Joewon Song, or ERS Hornet, or any of the other notable names on the leaderboards with them in a top of the leaderboard car, showing up to S1 tarmac races in a Transit Van wouldn’t be a winning move, but the result wouldn’t be much different than showing up in any other not-top-of-the-leaderboard car. But that is talking about the top 5% of the top 1%. Top 1% is about 1000 spots … and any car can do that.
That’s why I think that talking about cars being good or bad clouds the issue, and, personally, I think that’s just flat out wrong except for a precious few exceptions:
Like the Warthog. It’s stuck in A class and you can’t power. While there may be some offroad courses that it’s good at, I’d call that a bad car/truck/whatever it’s sci-fi self is supposed to be. There’s not many vehicles like that, though. And certainly not the V8 Vantage. It’s better in S1 class, but even in A class, it’s lap after lap after lap after lap of top 50 times on popular circuits.
Frankly, I think that any car that can consistently beat 99.75% of all times ever set on a course can be considered a good car. I haven’t driven the Warthog or Reliant yet, but every other car I’ve driven fits this criteria. And it’s not like I haven’t driven a lot of cars.
Edit:
I don’t think that makes the car driven not a good one. In someone else’s hands, results may be poor, but I think to blame the car in that situation would be wrong.
But if we need to come up with a definition, I propose: Any car that WILL set a top 1% as long as the driver doesn’t crash is a good car. I submit that that is almost any car in the game.
And of course luck with regards to who you come up against online.
This game has so many dirty laps on most leaderboards that top 1% in a Reliant is possible.
Lets do it
To be honest I am a little jaded from all this talk. Who in this thread would like to race online on the weekend? I will come along in my GMC Vandura in A class. Tunes are available.
Geez, another attempt to help from one of the helpful community members and a long explanation of how the help just isn’t what you want or agree with. Oh well.
Good luck man, but think this game isn’t for you. Maybe stick to GRID.
