Yeah the 3.7!engine is undoubtedly the king. Its a real shame the stock engines can’t be competitive, especially on these, as they sound really good
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100% thats what the pit lane is for.
Two feedback issues.
- I don’t know when to rejoin to the track after pitting in pit lane.
- I don’t know if the race will have a required pit stop or not until I start the race.
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- When you go into Fuel & Tyres and change the values, the game calculates if you need a pitstop or not (and how many stops). Also, Practice/Qualifying can be used for you to math out a strategy yourself after a few laps.
I think he refers to the mandatory pit stop in the NASCAR series. It says 0/1 left to the lap counter. But you don’t know before the race start. Thus, trying to non-stop on hards was a bad idea although the pre-race menu (fuel and tires) suggested I don’t need a stop.
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The problem is that whilst the game properly calculates how many stops you need for fuel, the calc it does for tyres basically assumes you’d drive until well in to the red Severe wear band, by which point you’re many seconds a lap slower than fresh tyres. If you use the general rule of 60-70% max wear then you’ll often need a pit-stop when the game thinks you don’t need one (I wouldn’t be surprised if it uses the same code as the Pit Now warning that happens in-race when you have <1 lap of fuel left or the tyres are severely worn). Since you start losing lap time from about 40-50% wear, short-stopping can be a viable tactic (although short-stopping M-Ms is usually slower than a full-length M stint followed by an S).
So far I have found that just about all the NASCAR road course events (I tend to avoid the ovals in the FMP cycle) are fastest with a H no-stopper, although the M-Ms/M-Ss come screaming at you over the last lap or two so you need to be on your guard. You’re also at risk during the first few laps as everyone overtakes you on faster/softer tyres until things settle down.
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That’s fair, mandatory stops should be added to the event info and fuel/tyre screens if they’re not already.
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From what I’ve experienced, most cars don’t suffer notable performance drop until 60% wear, and by 70% wear they’re toast.
I calculate my fuel/tyre via UDP rather than the game’s recommendations, and usually aim to put between 60 and 65% wear based on the track/car.
In most common scenarios (ie: not ovals) the first lap after 60% is crossed tends to be 1-3 seconds slower, the second 3-5. Once you get to 70% and beyond, you’re losing 10-20 seconds a lap.
It’s annoying we can’t use hard tires to avoid the pit stops. 6x tire wear shouldn’t be a thing, it’s only annoying and doesn’t add anything good to the game IMO.
BOTH OF IT SUCKS!
If I play the game I ALWAYS play in real time no 4x or 12x or whatever timescale, it annoys the hell outta me that we are forced to play with 6x tire wear, it’s SO UNREALISTIC.
The weirdest thing is that electric cars don’t need to recharge, IT’S COMPLETE UTTER NONSENSE!
If you play in real time, you don’t get funky shadows and such.
I was on softs at daytona, I could of done the whole race on softs so I tried and on the 2nd last lap the game says pit this lap or get DQ.
you can turn if off (ware).
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Hmm Nascar Circuit races are quite fun, and tunes are quite brain afk [max/min aero, 100/0 diff and some tweaks to gearing are enough to win most of races if u use good strategy]
And im happy that i didn’t have to do any ovals when doing race after race [if we ignore eagle rock that i just afk trough]. Anyway 10 races done, not doing nascar anymore XD
Did some P class races to get fomo car… man. P class is just a joke, so many cars and only one competive, when will they ban F1 cars from P class?
The career race with the R class cars at sebring has different tyer ware for practice than in the race.
In practice I did 4 laps and ware was 50% (8 laps race) so I decided to do one pit stop. In the race I never need to pit at all. (Same goes for the qualifyer series)
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I haven’t done the Career fomo series since it was possible to unlock the car via MP.
Gave it a try and noticed the AI uses the Mazda at a higher PI than what’s possible.
I remember Chris mentioned AI cheats should never happen in this game. What’s this then?
Did you use wet tyres?
Yes I noticed this as well. You also can’t upgrade the car in the races. Have to back out and upgrade
Congratulations on breaking the AI…again. Drivatars hold much too tightly to their lines and will run you off the track or even plow right into you instead of giving up their line to give you room. I’ve been rear ended countless times and shoved aside through corners by slower cars.
Oh, and they’re back to breaking out. I often have 1st place get a massive lead while traffic bunches up through corners, and spend most of the race trying to chase down the leaders - as in, it’ll take 4-5 laps to close on a 3 second lead, then once I pass the leader I’ll finish with a massive 6-7 second lead.
The 5.1 audio still isn’t fixed. Only the announcer uses the center speaker; player car sounds do not, and competitor’s cars easily drown out your own. This has been a problem since game launch.
Lastly, tuning changes have to be applied twice, or exiting out of the tuning menu does not acknowledge whether the changes you’ve made have already been applied. When I’m tuning menu, if you Apply Changes, then exit tuning menu without making any more changes, you’ll be prompted to apply the changes again.
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Unless it has changed again, that only happened when you altered gear ratios. Everything else only needed to be saved once
Yes I had race tyers.
They wear out quicker when the track isn’t wet. The practice starts out damp. If you can’t see spray you don’t need wets. The race is fully wet so they don’t wear out as fast